Best lift for your money

Would that enable the removal of the drop spacers? If I swap the front DS, should I swap out the rear as well? Tom Wood is a manufacturer that I am familiar with... any opinions?

You have a short wheel base. Your front is a double carden (referred to as CV) and balanced from the factory. There is enough travel in the slip that there generally is no need to replace the front shaft unless it is worn out, bent or beat up.

The rubi rear is not a slip style transfer case like the NP231. You'll use a flange style "CV" driveshaft in the rear.
 
You have a short wheel base. Your front is a double carden (referred to as CV) and balanced from the factory. There is enough travel in the slip that there generally is no need to replace the front shaft unless it is worn out, bent or beat up.

The rubi rear is not a slip style transfer case like the NP231. You'll use a flange style "CV" driveshaft in the rear.

TANGO YANKEE!!
Spoke to Tom at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts... gonna get a double carden rear DS right after the holiday and tuck my pan back up where it came from...

... then a Rockman skid plate.... so much stuff, so little money!
 
TANGO YANKEE!! Spoke to Tom at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts... gonna get a double carden rear DS right after the holiday and tuck my pan back up where it came from... ... then a Rockman skid plate.... so much stuff, so little money!

Do yourself a favor...when you order, ask for Spicer joints. If you don't, you'll get their gold seal joints. They are a greaseable(hollow) joint. I had one give out in Moab last May and it took out the entire double carden joint and the yoke at the TC. Not a fun fix. I believe the Spicer joint is stronger.
 
I'm actually wondering the same thing I have an 06 tj , was thinking rk or genrite but looking to run 35 or 37 ,,, one day I would like 40,s but I wanna start out first and them eventually upgrade any and vice or knowledge that u may know would be greatly appreciated thanks ...,
 
Top Bottom