Best ball joints for a 2017 Rubicon on 37's with 50k miles?

DaBank

DaBank

Member
My ball joints have a little play in them and when turning either left or right and I take my hands off the wheel the steering instead of centering goes past center in the opposite direction about a half of inch and then goes back to center so the Jeep does a little sway.
It drives straight and brakes straight and no death wobble, on some roads it tracks bad but that is about it.
Can this be the ball joints?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
It's possible but it could also be worn out tie rod ends. Before replacing anything, I would try and make sure what the real problem is first.

If you have a dial indicator, it will be the best way to measure ball joint play. But, there are things you can do to check it without one and, if they are really bad, you won't need one.

Here what you do:
1. From the axle, use a good floor jack to lift one of your tire off the ground. If you don't have a good floor jack, set your axle on a jack stand to hold it up securely in place.
2. From the side, place a long pry bar under the tire and have someone lift it up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for axial (up and down) movement. Any movement more than 0.050" is too much and would indicate that your ball joint is bad. Of course, if you can see this movement with your eyes, it's definitely bad.
3. Next, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to rock it back and forth while you have someone watch the upper joint for any movement. Any radial (side-to-side) movement more than 0.060" is too much. Again, if you can see the movement with your eyes and without any dial indicator, it's probably bad as well.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
DaBank said:
My ball joints have a little play in them and when turning either left or right and I take my hands off the wheel the steering instead of centering goes past center in the opposite direction about a half of inch and then goes back to center so the Jeep does a little sway.
It drives straight and brakes straight and no death wobble, on some roads it tracks bad but that is about it.
Can this be the ball joints?
Click to expand...
What's your caster set at? How high is your lift? And how long has the lift been on there?
 
DaBank

DaBank

Member
wayoflife said:
It's possible but it could also be worn out tie rod ends. Before replacing anything, I would try and make sure what the real problem is first.

If you have a dial indicator, it will be the best way to measure ball joint play. But, there are things you can do to check it without one and, if they are really bad, you won't need one.

Here what you do:
1. From the axle, use a good floor jack to lift one of your tire off the ground. If you don't have a good floor jack, set your axle on a jack stand to hold it up securely in place.
2. From the side, place a long pry bar under the tire and have someone lift it up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for axial (up and down) movement. Any movement more than 0.050" is too much and would indicate that your ball joint is bad. Of course, if you can see this movement with your eyes, it's definitely bad.
3. Next, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to rock it back and forth while you have someone watch the upper joint for any movement. Any radial (side-to-side) movement more than 0.060" is too much. Again, if you can see the movement with your eyes and without any dial indicator, it's probably bad as well.
Click to expand...
I already checked them and I have movement.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Dynatrac are not as easily rebuildable as they market, have them, pulled them and went with synergy while the dynatrac wait for me to take the time to rebuild them

Synergy or Mopar (spicer performance)
 
BlackKnight

BlackKnight

Member
You can also go to the Delete Route. Ball joint delete kits replace them with a set of bearings that are maintainable/repairable and last significantly longer than normal ball joints.
They are about twice as expensive as good ball joints, but last significantly longer, and are used also on Rock Bouncers for than example of how tough they are.
 
DaBank

DaBank

Member
WJCO said:
What's your caster set at? How high is your lift? And how long has the lift been on there?
Click to expand...
5'" long arm, it has been one since day one (new).
I am not sure on the caster.
The Jeep drives straight and brakes straight and has no death wobble.
When driving and turning a letting go of the steering wheel it will go past the center about a half a inch and almost feels like it get stuck for a split second and returns to center (drives straight the entire time) but when it does it and you look out the windshield at the hood it looks like the Jeep will lean over towards the direction it goes past the center and then when it returns level.
So basically it body rolls towards the opposite direction I was turning for a split second when it passed the return to center and almost feels like the steering sticks for a split second at the same time of the body roll would be the easiest way of explaining?

If someone else would drive it they probably would not even notice especially if they kept there hands on the steering wheel.....you would have to pay attention to the slight body roll and then straight making it do it.

My wife goes not even notice it when driving and when I show her the steering overcorrect and stick she says really? Lol
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
DaBank said:
5'" long arm, it has been one since day one (new).
I am not sure on the caster.
The Jeep drives straight and brakes straight and has no death wobble.
When driving and turning a letting go of the steering wheel it will go past the center about a half a inch and almost feels like it get stuck for a split second and returns to center (drives straight the entire time) but when it does it and you look out the windshield at the hood it looks like the Jeep will lean over towards the direction it goes past the center and then when it returns level.
So basically it body rolls towards the opposite direction I was turning for a split second when it passed the return to center and almost feels like the steering sticks for a split second at the same time of the body roll would be the easiest way of explaining?

If someone else would drive it they probably would not even notice especially if they kept there hands on the steering wheel.....you would have to pay attention to the slight body roll and then straight making it do it.

My wife goes not even notice it when driving and when I show her the steering overcorrect and stick she says really? Lol
Click to expand...
does it have a drop pitman arm?
 
DaBank

DaBank

Member
jeeeep said:
does it have a drop pitman arm?
Click to expand...
It does have a drop pitman arm that has been one since day one for 50k miles.
It has an adjustable trackbar but everything else is stock the tie rod,ball joints,steering stabilizer,drag link.
These issue has been going on for maybe 5k miles. The Jeep is a 2017 Rubicon Recon with a 5" Fabtech Crawler long arm kit. I have also wanted to put a stock pitman arm on and a flip the drag link but the Jeep has also drove great.
 
DaBank

DaBank

Member
Did the Rubicon Recon JKU come with the HD ball joints or the same as normal Rubicon? I know it came with a upgraded axle but not exactly sure what is different.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
DaBank said:
It does have a drop pitman arm that has been one since day one for 50k miles.
It has an adjustable trackbar but everything else is stock the tie rod,ball joints,steering stabilizer,drag link.
These issue has been going on for maybe 5k miles. The Jeep is a 2017 Rubicon Recon with a 5" Fabtech Crawler long arm kit. I have also wanted to put a stock pitman arm on and a flip the drag link but the Jeep has also drove great.
Click to expand...
drop pitman is likely what's causing the stuck feeling. Had this issue on a Grand Cherokee I had lifted. The shop I had trusted to install the lift properly, chose to install a drop pitman arm instead of the flip kit.

if you pull the drop pitman, you may see wear marks where it's traveling on the spline or, disconnect the drag link and feel the movement with your hand. I'm guessing if you pull the pitman arm you'll see where it's been riding on the steering box spline.

I'd inspect it before you get into a situation and it decides to fail, I'm OCD like that though lol
 
DaBank

DaBank

Member
I still have not ordered ball joints. I want to order them this week and also a new tie rod and drag link.
I have a 2017 Jeep Recon with original ball joints and 50k miles with 37"s should I get knurled or non knurled? I know the Recon came with an updated heavy duty front D44 axle and I assume the ball joints were the same as the standard D44? How are Tera Flex ball joints?
Any options on Doetsch aluminum one ton tie rod and drag link flip kit?

​

 
NAZ Jeeper

NAZ Jeeper

Member
I installed the Teraflex ball joints last week. They seem sturdy and a lot tougher than stock. One thing to be aware is that the oem brand receiving install cup will slightly crush the fittings that the grease zirks screw into on the lower ball joints. I had to clean them out with a 1 by 28 tap. Had to do three out of the four because I didn’t figure it out when it happened on the first one. Still happy with the purchase.
 
CalSgt

CalSgt

Hooked
DaBank said:
I still have not ordered ball joints. I want to order them this week and also a new tie rod and drag link.
I have a 2017 Jeep Recon with original ball joints and 50k miles with 37"s should I get knurled or non knurled? I know the Recon came with an updated heavy duty front D44 axle and I assume the ball joints were the same as the standard D44? How are Tera Flex ball joints?
Any options on Doetsch aluminum one ton tie rod and drag link flip kit?

​

Click to expand...
My understanding is that knurled ball joints are for when the hole in the knuckle gets worn. Also once you switch to knurled there’s no going back to the other type
 
NAZ Jeeper

NAZ Jeeper

Member
I avoided knurled for the above reasons. One of the reasons why I went with Teraflex. Only knurled ball joints were available locally.

As far as aluminum tie rods and drag link. I have the RPM one ton. I just got back from the Rubicon and put some scratches on the tie rod but didn’t bend it. I think the weak link on any of those set ups is the tie rod ends not the bars.

I have a Metalcloak 3.5 inch lift so I haven‘t flipped the drag link, I‘ve been told that’s only necessary for four inches and up. So far I’ve been good for 50k miles.
 
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