BANDIT - 2023 Jeep JT Gladiator Rubicon

Looking good!! I’ve been waiting for updates on this for my own gladiator. One question just wondering why you went with a taller EVO lift versus say the Rancho lift for the gladiator? Iv been leaning towards the Rancho 3 inch for a lower COG. Is there a benefit with the Gladiator?
 
Just to backtrack a little bit Eddie, I’m glad your going to test out not using the control arm drop brackets. I have the same lift but 38” tires. I have the drop brackets ready to go but haven’t installed them yet. I kinda think I want to use them just to help with the geometry. I have the upper and lower arms but I’m still having a bit of an issue with the passenger front coil bowing rearward slightly. I’m interested to see if you have any issues with that or not and or how you address that.
Yes, there is a bit of bowing on the passenger side front coil but not enough to be a problem or at least, not in my opinion. What I can tell you is that I did install the factory upper spring perch isolator just as it was from the factory and that's most likely the problem. Being that it is a wedge, it will influence the spring. I will most likely cut off the guide pins and rotate the isolator so that it mitigates this bow.

Also, I will try to get the drop bracket install done as soon as I can.
 
Do you need to change either driveshaft?
So, the 4.5" lift comes with carrier bearing spacers and so long as you set your pinion to be in line with the drive shaft (this is because of how the Gladiator control arms do weird things with the pinion at a full droop), you should be fine with the factory rear shaft for a while. Up front, FAD will keep the shaft from spinning and so long as you don't do a lot of big flex type wheeling, the front shaft should be good for a while too.
 
Looking good!! I’ve been waiting for updates on this for my own gladiator. One question just wondering why you went with a taller EVO lift versus say the Rancho lift for the gladiator? Iv been leaning towards the Rancho 3 inch for a lower COG. Is there a benefit with the Gladiator?
Mainly to try something different. Rancho makes great kits but we've already installed their stuff a bunch. Also, the EVO kit sits a bit taller and comes with more parts that I wanted like adjustable front lower and rear upper arms and extended stainless steel brake lines. And, with a lift this tall and with the flex it offers, the rear brake lines are NECESSARY.
 
Yes, there is a bit of bowing on the passenger side front coil but not enough to be a problem or at least, not in my opinion. What I can tell you is that I did install the factory upper spring perch isolator just as it was from the factory and that's most likely the problem. Being that it is a wedge, it will influence the spring. I will most likely cut off the guide pins and rotate the isolator so that it mitigates this bow.

Also, I will try to get the drop bracket install done as soon as I can.
Ahh, I hadn’t even thought of the upper spring perch isolator causing that! Thanks Eddie! I know what you mean as far as the bow not being too bad. I was able to adjust the axle enough to really help minimize it. At its worst, the coil spring was about a 1/2” from making contact with my shock. I’d be very interested to see how you correct that if you need to.
I’m also all in on the drop brackets too.
 
So, the 4.5" lift comes with carrier bearing spacers and so long as you set your pinion to be in line with the drive shaft (this is because of how the Gladiator control arms do weird things with the pinion at a full droop), you should be fine with the factory rear shaft for a while. Up front, FAD will keep the shaft from spinning and so long as you don't do a lot of big flex type wheeling, the front shaft should be good for a while too.
I’m far from an expert, but with my limited knowledge of researching for my JL, this is also the case with the JL EVO stage 3 lift. One of the reasons I went with EVO was not “having” to replace driveshafts with my stage 3. What I didn’t understand was why this is the case so thanks for the above.

This fact was also a reason for choosing the stage 3 as it was a tough decision with a couple other mfgs you’ve reviewed.
 
Okay, got side tracked with other things but getting back to work on Bandit and finishing up the rear end.
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Yeah, definitely a big improvement over that one ^^^
Did they actually change out the type of bushings they were using? My original EVO set went out after a couple thousand miles and some hard wheeling. I need to get a new track bar and considering theirs or synergy’s at the moment.
 
Did they actually change out the type of bushings they were using? My original EVO set went out after a couple thousand miles and some hard wheeling. I need to get a new track bar and considering theirs or synergy’s at the moment.
I agree, the original EVO track bar was nothing to write home about. Unfortunately, I don't know for sure if the bushings are the same, all I know is that the overall design of the whole track bar(s) is much beefier. That said, I've run Synergy and Currie and can tell you that both have held up well for me.
 
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