Ball Joint

L

LazyGreek

Member
Hello,
I’m in the process of ordering a lift. When i have it installed, I was planning on upgrading to rcv’s/re gear. Since I will have everything opened up. I wanted to to do the heavy duty ball joints.

do I need knurled or non-knurled ? They are the standard rubicon axles.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Non-knurled is what you'll need unless you've changed out your ball joints a bunch of times in the past.

Also, if you haven't already pulled the trigger on parts, I would recommend that you save your money and just get a set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. They'll get the job done just as well, for about $400 less and they won't snap and pop loudly after hard use the way RCV's will.
 
CalSgt

CalSgt

Hooked
wayoflife said:
Non-knurled is what you'll need unless you've changed out your ball joints a bunch of times in the past.

Also, if you haven't already pulled the trigger on parts, I would recommend that you save your money and just get a set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. They'll get the job done just as well, for about $400 less and they won't snap and pop loudly after hard use the way RCV's will.
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This^^^

Also the stock shafts on the JL's are pretty tough. Mine made it through about a dozen local wheeling trips through a rock canyon, a week in Moab, and almost 3 trips (both ways each time) through the Rubicon. I cant remember if Fordyce was before or after the replacement shafts. I'm certain I would still be running them if I would have been using my brain.

Ended up going with the Spicer chromoly upgrades for a bit over $700 when I finally busted the stocker.
 
L

LazyGreek

Member
wayoflife said:
Non-knurled is what you'll need unless you've changed out your ball joints a bunch of times in the past.

Also, if you haven't already pulled the trigger on parts, I would recommend that you save your money and just get a set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. They'll get the job done just as well, for about $400 less and they won't snap and pop loudly after hard use the way RCV's will.
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I haven’t changed them out, the ball joints. I’m at 25k miles.

For the shafts. I was going to do both front and rear. The chromoly you are referring to. I’m on the northridge site, is that the Dana advantek for edl , and same for rear/m220?

thanks for your help with this.
 
L

LazyGreek

Member
Just following up. I ordered the dynatrac rebuildable ball joints and then front and rear rcv’s, 1pc in the front and both are the 300m versions :)
 
monstrousmac

monstrousmac

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
Non-knurled is what you'll need unless you've changed out your ball joints a bunch of times in the past.

Also, if you haven't already pulled the trigger on parts, I would recommend that you save your money and just get a set of chromoly shafts with full circle clips. They'll get the job done just as well, for about $400 less and they won't snap and pop loudly after hard use the way RCV's will.
Click to expand...
I have RCV axle shafts and they are a pain in the butt, they need to be constantly greased and depending on the climate you live in, the orange boots crack and they are expensive to replace. They are strong but now your weak point is your ring and pinion. I would rather break a U-Joint on the trail versus tearing up a ring and pinion. I can change a U-Joint on the trial. Just my thoughts.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
monstrousmac said:
I have RCV axle shafts and they are a pain in the butt, they need to be constantly greased and depending on the climate you live in, the orange boots crack and they are expensive to replace. They are strong but now your weak point is your ring and pinion. I would rather break a U-Joint on the trail versus tearing up a ring and pinion. I can change a U-Joint on the trial. Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...
Yep, I'm 100% with you on this. Good axles but not necessarily any better and for the $400 premium, I'll stick with standard chromoly shafts and u-joints with full circle clips. And, this is from experience running both.
 
Sgt_USMC

Sgt_USMC

Active Member
I look at it the same way, do I want to spend a lot of cash to replace an axle that broke or A u-joint? My vote is u-joint every time. It’s doable on the trail and the parts are small/inexpensive. No brainer for me.
 
L

LazyGreek

Member
I am regearing (4.88)and doing front/rear drive shafts at the same time. The rear rcv’s while on order, I’m not expecting it until thanksgiving ? Lol
 
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