ATTENTION: Know Your Jeep JK Wrangler Coolants and Save Your Engine!

Frydaddy

New member
Ooops..not sure how to use this format.. I need to delete one. Sorry.
But I felt this was great info...so thought I would buy some... and this is what Amazon says.... so not sure of myself

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The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.
 

Clifford33

Caught the Bug
Wow very helpful thread. Now I have a few questions. So I'm low on coolant in my 2009 unlimited JK. And as described I would use the blue cap HOAT coolant ORANGE color. Now there is orange coolant in it now it's just low so I would like to top it off but being i bought the jeep used Idk if it's factory coolant or not will it be best to flush it all out and replace with factory coolant so I know for sure or just top it off with the orange coolant. Also is there a difference from gm orange coolant and mopars HOAT orange coolant would it be bad to mix the 2?


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Frydaddy

New member
Wow very helpful thread. Now I have a few questions. So I'm low on coolant in my 2009 unlimited JK. And as described I would use the blue cap HOAT coolant ORANGE color. Now there is orange coolant in it now it's just low so I would like to top it off but being i bought the jeep used Idk if it's factory coolant or not will it be best to flush it all out and replace with factory coolant so I know for sure or just top it off with the orange coolant. Also is there a difference from gm orange coolant and mopars HOAT orange coolant would it be bad to mix the 2?


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The cap colors were a short-lived thing. The original post needs updated to reflect the current situation.

Don't just look down into the rad to see the color, you need to shine light THROUGH it to see its true color, but yea, yours should be orange HOAT.

Not sure about GM orange stuff, Im just too afraid of this new stuff to risk ruining everything on a hunch.
 

ditterdame

New member
The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.
Thanks. Will do [emoji2]

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kirlax09

New member
The 150,000 mile stuff is the OAT. This is one of the few things i would be caught dead at the dealership for. They always have it available, and somewhat reasonably priced. Just get it from them.

I totally agree and thank you for this thread. I just went to the dealer and picked up the OAT stuff for $22 (pretty much the same price as it was on Amazon) for my 2016 JK. I didn't want to second guess anything because my owner's manual says to get "OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032". I couldn't find that anywhere online. The dealer said the same thing as others online that MS-12106 was the same thing. They said it was the purple fluid.
 

wanderer

Member
08

What would happen if You had an 08 as I do. and you had a new radiator put in a year ago and they switched you coolant from Hoat, to OAT ? I am wondering about this as the dealer did a radiator flush then a a few months later my Jeep sated to run just a bit hotter during the winter and now in the summer is seeming to run even hotter> see mother posts."RUNNING HOT"
 

sipafz

Caught the Bug
I’m glad that this was brought back to the top. I bought some coolant last week for our 2011 Liberty, Mopar 5 (HOAT). I knew that our 2016 Wrangler was different, Mopar 10 (OAT), but didn’t realize how different. Thanks for the heads up NFRs!
 

14JKURX88

New member
Has anyone had the dealership put incorrect coolant? I’m having an issue and when I looked at my history record back in 2016 incorrect coolant was put in and then in 2017 they put in the correct coolant. The dealer now wants to charge me for a new heater core claiming it is clogged. Any suggestions on what to do?


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19YJ94

Caught the Bug
I just stopped at the dealership today, and priced full strength at $22 per gallon, and 50/50 at $15 per gallon. Didn't know they had 50/50. Going to pick up a couple, just to keep around.
 

vicaven

New member
thanks

awesome info. glad I found it. almost topped off with 50/50 green peak from advance. used water instead. I got confused when I looked in the reservoir bottle and it looked orange. SO GLAD I FOUND THIS FIRST. thanks.
 

Clark Griswold

New member
Update, after flushing the heater core and the rest of the coolant in the system with Valvoline I still have heat like when it was new so guess I got lucky with minimal sand. Just recently replaced HVAC control as well as it was kind of out of control, all is perfect now.

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Clutch

Caught the Bug
I just went to check out the HOAT vs OAT thing and it is really hard to tell which one is used. Like really hard. Early it’s mentioned that a 2013 must use OAT, why is that? What is different about the ‘12 vs ‘13?


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frogmaster34

New member
update

i am in process of changing out my thermostat 2012 wrangler for the p0128 fault, and then of course the ECTS. ZEREX G05 now has 5yr/150k on the label 50/50 prediluted and say HOAT on the back label, along with the fact that is approved OEM replacement for 2002-2012 jeeps.
 

timberwoof

New member
Quick question: I just tore the motor apart on my ‘09 JKU, and the coolant was all green. My guess is, one of the previous owners switched it over.

Should I stay with the green or should I flush and go back to the stock coolant?


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TRLJNKY

New member
Quick question: I just tore the motor apart on my ‘09 JKU, and the coolant was all green. My guess is, one of the previous owners switched it over.

Should I stay with the green or should I flush and go back to the stock coolant?


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Id flush it really good and go back OEM. I believe the new stuff has additives to help with corrosion on all the aluminim components. Better safe than sorry. You already drained the coolant at this point if your all torn down
 

brah

New member
My thermostat housing blew over the weekend, I pulled over to a gas station and my coolant tank was empty. I poured in some Peak coolant/antifreeze and limped it home. Mechanic said water pump is leaking now (probably from it overheating after the housing bursted). I’m tying to figure out what caused this...did I use the wrong coolant?

Previous to this, I was topping off with Prestone every once in a while. I figured some fluid probably leaked out while wheeling.

So now in my tank I have a mix of Mopar, Prestone and Peak. Any idea if these mix?
 
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