Are Anti rock,(or any aftermarket front sway bar) wider?

Zx14

New member
Completed my PSC adventure steering kit. At full lock right, the pitman arm contacts the sway bar, I know I can adjust the steering limiter on the knuckle, but rather not. I am looking at a different sway setup. Because another issue is the passenger side disconnect, can’t disconnect. I have the pro rock 44 and the sway bracket is installed in such a way, that there is not enough room to pull the sway bar link off the pin.

Also will have to change TB. Way too close to the new big bore box. Just love how one upgrade leads to other issues. Just Empty Every Pocket
 
I’m assuming you mean full lock to the driver (left). No way should it contact or come close to contacting the sway bar, stock or aftermarket.

Some of the issues you are stating aren’t making sense, to me at least. Can you post up some pictures?

As far as track bar contacting the sector shaft, just cycle your suspension to confirm. It may be fine depending on your up travel/setup.
 
I’m assuming you mean full lock to the driver (left). No way should it contact or come close to contacting the sway bar, stock or aftermarket.

Some of the issues you are stating aren’t making sense, to me at least. Can you post up some pictures?

As far as track bar contacting the sector shaft, just cycle your suspension to confirm. It may be fine depending on your up travel/setup.
I made no change to the steering stop adjuster on the knuckles. (Note: I also added the synergy TB brace, and had to trim a bit off for the sway bar to clear). My sway bar is centered as is the axle. I also moved the TB to the lower hole in the pro rock, even though I don’t like it there due to it doesn’t match the drag link angle there. TB clearance is ok in that position, as long as I don’t full lock right. The pics shown of the TB close is full right at ride height. I have 4” of up travel, so it will hit steering box in that scenario.
Thanks for your input.
 

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Honestly, it looks to me like you may have your control arms set way too long or are running something like "mid-arms" and that would be your problem.
 
Honestly, it looks to me like you may have your control arms set way too long or are running something like "mid-arms" and that would be your problem.
Please explain? I could remove the Axle, taking the control arms out of the equation. The steering box and the sway bar connected. And have the same results?,,,no? :).
 
Aside from it hitting the sway bar, are you able to get full lock to the passenger side as in, you get all the way to the stops? I'm assuming you are hitting the stops on the driver side? Any chance you over clocked the pitman arm when you installed it? It's keyed but curious and, if you have already adjusted your steering wheel to see if that got over clocked during install.
 
Aside from it hitting the sway bar, are you able to get full lock to the passenger side as in, you get all the way to the stops? I'm assuming you are hitting the stops on the driver side? Any chance you over clocked the pitman arm when you installed it? It's keyed but curious and, if you have already adjusted your steering wheel to see if that got over clocked during install.
Yes sir, the photo showing the closeness of the pitman arm to TB is full lock on the stops to passenger side. You really can’t put the pitman arm on clocked wrong, since it at 45 degree intervals
 
Please explain? I could remove the Axle, taking the control arms out of the equation. The steering box and the sway bar connected. And have the same results?,,,no? :).
Sorry, I was just looking at your track bar pics and read your first post now.

Have you verified that you're getting the same amount of actual turning left to right?
 
Yes sir, the photo showing the closeness of the pitman arm to TB is full lock on the stops to passenger side. You really can’t put the pitman arm on clocked wrong, since it at 45 degree intervals
I've seen it done so that's why I asked but usually see the steering wheel get overclocked.
 
I've seen it done so that's why I asked but usually see the steering wheel get overclocked.
Thanks for asking, all input is appreciated. Can you tell me if the anti rock sway bar is wider at that point? Or should I just limit steering stops? Then there is the track Bar. In a different post you recommend street smarts or rock Krawler. I prefer the steer smarts due to the way it adjust’s. BUT, I don’t want to drop $300 to find out I have the same issue.
 
Here is the other issue with the OEM sway bar. Passenger side, you can’t slide the link off due to it hits the pro rock TB/steering stabilizer bracktry. Question, is it ok to put the sway bar end link pin the other direction on the axle, causing the sway bar link to angle outward a bit? You can also see that the sway bar hits the top coil bucket as evince of rust, scraping.
 

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Thanks for asking, all input is appreciated. Can you tell me if the anti rock sway bar is wider at that point? Or should I just limit steering stops? Then there is the track Bar. In a different post you recommend street smarts or rock Krawler. I prefer the steer smarts due to the way it adjust’s. BUT, I don’t want to drop $300 to find out I have the same issue.
I definitely didn't recommend SS. I'd look at Synergy or RockJock for the track bar and unfortunately these days, $300 is the going rate for them.

Antirocks should give you some extra room. If your stops are already pretty close, you could adjust them but getting full lock to lock would be ideal though without adjusting them.
 
Here is the other issue with the OEM sway bar. Passenger side, you can’t slide the link off due to it hits the pro rock TB/steering stabilizer bracktry. Question, is it ok to put the sway bar end link pin the other direction on the axle, causing the sway bar link to angle outward a bit? You can also see that the sway bar hits the top coil bucket as evince of rust, scraping.
I mean you could but I wouldn't.
 
I definitely didn't recommend SS. I'd look at Synergy or RockJock for the track bar and unfortunately these days, $300 is the going rate for them.

Antirocks should give you some extra room. If your stops are already pretty close, you could adjust them but getting full lock to lock would be ideal though without adjusting them.
Sorry, I stand corrected, you recommend synergy or rockjock. I don’t mind the $300, if it is the fix.
 

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Can't say for sure on a JK but on a JL and JT, the Antirock arms are bent in just like the factory sway bar. This is to help provide tire clearance at a full turn. Personally, if it were me, I would just adjust the steer stop being that it's FREE and super easy to do and won't rob you of much if anything noticeable in terms of steering. But again, that's just me.
 
Can't say for sure on a JK but on a JL and JT, the Antirock arms are bent in just like the factory sway bar. This is to help provide tire clearance at a full turn. Personally, if it were me, I would just adjust the steer stop being that it's FREE and super easy to do and won't rob you of much if anything noticeable in terms of steering. But again, that's just me.
I think for now, yes that is the fix. $2700 for the PSC kit and $300-$400 for the track bar I need to buy. I’m tapped this month, lol. I did read that the antilock sway bar setup, should only be level, when your in the middle of your suspension swing. My oem is level with Jeep weight on it.

Now if I can just get a definitive answer on track bar brand. Between the 2 Disciple suggested, I like the rock jocks, due to its solid. Not that I have seen anything against the synergy, and I like how it adjust’s. I have written both companies and they both say it should work. Rock Krawler does specifically say on there site, works with PSC. They all look bent the same way, as the teraflex I have now. Decisions, Decisions. ;).
 
I think for now, yes that is the fix. $2700 for the PSC kit and $300-$400 for the track bar I need to buy. I’m tapped this month, lol. I did read that the antilock sway bar setup, should only be level, when your in the middle of your suspension swing. My oem is level with Jeep weight on it.

Now if I can just get a definitive answer on track bar brand. Between the 2 Disciple suggested, I like the rock jocks, due to its solid. Not that I have seen anything against the synergy, and I like how it adjust’s. I have written both companies and they both say it should work. Rock Krawler does specifically say on there site, works with PSC. They all look bent the same way, as the teraflex I have now. Decisions, Decisions. ;).
At ride height, your sway bar arms should be sitting at about 5 deg or more up. If they are not, your links are too short.

RockJock makes a very nice track bar.
 
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