Another tires post

tallguy26

Caught the Bug
I know that this has been posted so many times you guys are probably sick of it. But here it goes. Ive been trying to find out what all would need to be done on my 2015 JKU sport to run 35s. Ive read on the forums people are talking about regearing, bracing the axles etc. Truth is i am now more confused than I was when i started. Please help. My sport does not have the tow package if that helps.
 
Lift it two inches... make sure you have enough wheel offset... that's it. Unless you're doing crazy off-road excursions, you don't need to regear, or beef up the axles.

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Lift it two inches... make sure you have enough wheel offset... that's it. Unless you're doing crazy off-road excursions, you don't need to regear, or beef up the axles.

Sent By Morse Code

C-Gussets and sleep better at night...
 
as was mentioned a 2 inch will get you there. i then recommend regearing as quickly as possible to something like a 4.88.
 
I know that this has been posted so many times you guys are probably sick of it. But here it goes. Ive been trying to find out what all would need to be done on my 2015 JKU sport to run 35s. Ive read on the forums people are talking about regearing, bracing the axles etc. Truth is i am now more confused than I was when i started. Please help. My sport does not have the tow package if that helps.

You do not have to re-gear. However, you will have a lot more power up hills if you do. Not a requirement though.
 
Why? I have been running stock gears for a few years. I must be doing it wrong.


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i'm on stock 4.10 gears as well and hate it especially since i moved to the Texas hill country. in Houston, it was not so bad. but, driving around Austin/Central Texas, the poor gearing has become very, very noticeable to me.
 
i'm on stock 4.10 gears as well and hate it especially since i moved to the Texas hill country. in Houston, it was not so bad. but, driving around Austin/Central Texas, the poor gearing has become very, very noticeable to me.

I just moved from Austin and Texas Hill Country. I wheeled all over Katemcy, Hidden Falls, and a trip to Longs Ranch. All on 3.73 gears and 35s. While it isn't the best, it did work. I am not a lead foot and I did just fine.
Also, I drove my Jeep on the move to FL with no issues....
I would be more concerned with c gussets then ball joint upgrade before throwing money into a regear.

Not necessary to regear right away. Just my opinion.


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I just moved from Austin and Texas Hill Country. I wheeled all over Katemcy, Hidden Falls, and a trip to Longs Ranch. All on 3.73 gears and 35s. While it isn't the best, it did work. I am not a lead foot and I did just fine.
Also, I drove my Jeep on the move to FL with no issues....
I would be more concerned with c gussets then ball joint upgrade before throwing money into a regear.

Not necessary to regear right away. Just my opinion.


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But he stated his does not have the tow package so it probably has 3.21s. 35s and 3.21s will be a dog. To OP try it and see what you think.

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I don't have a tow package either. And while he might have 3.21, regearing is expensive. I just hate to see him sink money on that only to possibly upgrade his Dana 30 down the road and pay twice. Get at what I am trying to say? My advise is run it like it is, and if it's really bad then make the decision to pay that kind of money. I wouldn't until upgrading the axle.


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I don't have a tow package either. And while he might have 3.21, regearing is expensive. I just hate to see him sink money on that only to possibly upgrade his Dana 30 down the road and pay twice. Get my drift?


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I do but you have 3.73s. Which is bearable on 35s. Have you ever driven a jeep with 35s and 3.21s? maybe he got lucky and it has the 3.73 option but knowing way dealers order I doubt it. That said you are right which is why I said let the OP do it and see what he thinks.

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I do but you have 3.73s. Which is bearable on 35s. Have you ever driven a jeep with 35s and 3.21s? maybe he got lucky and it has the 3.73 option but knowing way dealers order I doubt it. That said you are right which is why I said let the OP do it and see what he thinks.

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Which is what I was suggesting in the first place. I guess we agree.

Oh and I edited my last post because it sounded dickish to you. Not what I was going after.
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I don't have a tow package either. And while he might have 3.21, regearing is expensive. I just hate to see him sink money on that only to possibly upgrade his Dana 30 down the road and pay twice. Get at what I am trying to say? My advise is run it like it is, and if it's really bad then make the decision to pay that kind of money. I wouldn't until upgrading the axle.


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this is a good point. i assumed it was a Rubicon.

but, i honestly don't know how you did on 3.73s. it truly annoys the crap out of me how underpowered i feel on the freeway.
 
Looking at where the OP states as home, and not knowing his gear ratio, I am not sure if 3.21 will do well. It's a crap shoot without knowing his ratio. OP, if you live in a mountainous area, it might suck a lot on 3.21 gears.


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I know that this has been posted so many times you guys are probably sick of it. But here it goes. Ive been trying to find out what all would need to be done on my 2015 JKU sport to run 35s. Ive read on the forums people are talking about regearing, bracing the axles etc. Truth is i am now more confused than I was when i started. Please help. My sport does not have the tow package if that helps.

I'll try to break it down in one post to make it a little easier to decide.

Lifts:

Technically - you can run 35's on no lift and possibly some wheel spacers. Ideally - you will want a ~2" lift to help keep the tires out of the fenders, and allow some proper travel.
This can be achieved through a budget boost, leveling kit, or a full lift kit. The most cost effective is obviously the budget boost/leveling kit.
These are quite nice because they retain a lot of the factory components, and you don't need to worry about correcting steering geometry that you would with a 3+ lift.
EVO makes a nice leveling kit that suits 35's quite well - as does I believe Rancho.

Axles:

There's going to be a lot of debate in this department, so I'll give you my opinion.
If you are going to keep your factory front axle in the Jeep for quite some time - or permanently - C Gussets are worthwhile investment.
Sleeves/etc are not. I would be running a set of gussets on a 33 inch tire - and above. But I also drive 60+ mph on washboard roads because I can.
If you do end up bending a C - they are not repairable, and will cause some excessive camber wear on your tires that you just paid good money for.
With that said, I would look at doing this sooner than later. The cost is really not that much. I originally hired a welder from Craigslist before I bought a welder, total investment $180.
That's a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing tires.

Balljoints:

Are the factory balljoints sub-par to Dynatracs? Of course - but do they work for most people for their first set? Yep.
I've never been one to upgrade parts that aren't worn, so personally I wouldn't swap them out until yours start showing signs of wear.
When they do - then consider upgrading to something better, but this isn't required right away.

Gears:

Another highly debatable topic, once again my opinion.
A lot of people that say 3:21's and 35's or 3:73's and 35's aren't an issue probably haven't driven a re-geared Jeep.
(Not directing this at anyone in the thread).
I started my build with a 13 Sahara. I drove 3:21's and 35's for 40,000km. In that time, I overheated the transmission ~3 times.
It is a great benefit to re-gear. I now run 5:13's (swapped axles) and 37's, and I haven't had any overheating issues - and I can actually hold fifth gear.
However - I would run a build list check on your Jeep to verify which gear ratio you actually have. Some Jeeps (non-rubicon) came with 4:10's, some came with 3:73.
Being Auto/Manual will make a large difference as well, an auto Jeep will feel more sluggish than a Manual if both things are equal.
This isn't a necessity right away to run 35's, anything larger and I would say yes. The overheating was primarily from the fact I live in BC Canada (mountains EVERYWHERE).
Ultimately I would decide what tire size you want to run in the future, if 35 is the largest then I don't see much issue in keeping the Dana 30 and re-gearing it.
If you want to run 37's in the future, then I would hold off on the re-gear until you upgrade to something better.

I hope this helps.
 
I'll try to break it down in one post to make it a little easier to decide.

Lifts:

Technically - you can run 35's on no lift and possibly some wheel spacers. Ideally - you will want a ~2" lift to help keep the tires out of the fenders, and allow some proper travel.
This can be achieved through a budget boost, leveling kit, or a full lift kit. The most cost effective is obviously the budget boost/leveling kit.
These are quite nice because they retain a lot of the factory components, and you don't need to worry about correcting steering geometry that you would with a 3+ lift.
EVO makes a nice leveling kit that suits 35's quite well - as does I believe Rancho.

Axles:

There's going to be a lot of debate in this department, so I'll give you my opinion.
If you are going to keep your factory front axle in the Jeep for quite some time - or permanently - C Gussets are worthwhile investment.
Sleeves/etc are not. I would be running a set of gussets on a 33 inch tire - and above. But I also drive 60+ mph on washboard roads because I can.
If you do end up bending a C - they are not repairable, and will cause some excessive camber wear on your tires that you just paid good money for.
With that said, I would look at doing this sooner than later. The cost is really not that much. I originally hired a welder from Craigslist before I bought a welder, total investment $180.
That's a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing tires.

Balljoints:

Are the factory balljoints sub-par to Dynatracs? Of course - but do they work for most people for their first set? Yep.
I've never been one to upgrade parts that aren't worn, so personally I wouldn't swap them out until yours start showing signs of wear.
When they do - then consider upgrading to something better, but this isn't required right away.

Gears:

Another highly debatable topic, once again my opinion.
A lot of people that say 3:21's and 35's or 3:73's and 35's aren't an issue probably haven't driven a re-geared Jeep.
(Not directing this at anyone in the thread).
I started my build with a 13 Sahara. I drove 3:21's and 35's for 40,000km. In that time, I overheated the transmission ~3 times.
It is a great benefit to re-gear. I now run 5:13's (swapped axles) and 37's, and I haven't had any overheating issues - and I can actually hold fifth gear.
However - I would run a build list check on your Jeep to verify which gear ratio you actually have. Some Jeeps (non-rubicon) came with 4:10's, some came with 3:73.
Being Auto/Manual will make a large difference as well, an auto Jeep will feel more sluggish than a Manual if both things are equal.
This isn't a necessity right away to run 35's, anything larger and I would say yes. The overheating was primarily from the fact I live in BC Canada (mountains EVERYWHERE).
Ultimately I would decide what tire size you want to run in the future, if 35 is the largest then I don't see much issue in keeping the Dana 30 and re-gearing it.
If you want to run 37's in the future, then I would hold off on the re-gear until you upgrade to something better.

I hope this helps.

Well put. Thank you. Hopefully that sheds some insight for the OP. I have driven regeared Jeeps and it is much, much better to drive. I was merely stating that if it is livable and you can, in some instances, get away with not having to regear right away. Everyone has different situations. It just depends on so many factors. But you hit the nail on the head.


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