After market diff covers

Hello everyone I’m planning on re gearing my gladiator. I’m running 37 inch tires, and after Eddy recommend it me to re gear to 5.13 I’m taking his advice and that’s the gear I’m going to put. Now I heard that after 40k plus miles a lot of times people are overheating their gears ⚙️ and to solve that problem you also need after market diff covers to hold more space for oil so that way it won’t over heat and most of shops out there aren’t advising their customers on that.
I heard the same line of crap you were fed, back in the late 90s, about the heavy usage I did with my Ram 2500, I hauled way more weight than typical users. I put on those extra capacity fluted diff covers, which might have even been aluminum. The first time I drained the fluids, I pulled those POS covers off and swapped back in the OEM Dana covers. The oil was darker and full of glitter, and the truck had 40k miles when I made the initial swap, never had it looked like that with OEM covers.
 
Ok I haven’t heard of overheating gears but I think what you’re referring to is that the gear oil can get thin enough to damage locker position sensor since they are cheaply made and not potted. But that only effects rubicons/Mojave’s plus the work around for that though is just using 75w140 gear oil. Not a new diff cover. It’s recommended to use it in high heat or towing applications. All the dealer ships here in Vegas use the heavier gear weight since it’s so damn hot lol.
 
Just to be clear factory diffs offer the most cooling they are thin to allow for heat dissipation and are shaped with a curve to fully lubricat the gear assembly. Some aftermarket coves jack up the fluid dynamics and can starve the bearings from oil plus they are very thick and take a long time to cool down (they retain heat). If you really need/want to get one I’d go with Dana Spicers since it’s closest to the factory design and have ribs for cooling to offset the thicker design.
 
In general, if the same amount of heat is applied to a thick cover as a thin cover, the thick cover will be at a lower temperature.

True I see what you mean but in that case wouldn’t it take longer to reach the same temperature? Plus that’s only if they are made out of the same material (steel vs iron).

Metal working isn’t my field nor am I a welder so I’m genuinely asking to learn.
 
In general, if the same amount of heat is applied to a thick cover as a thin cover, the thick cover will be at a lower temperature.
Huh? Basic physics? But it has not been acertained that there is a heating issue at all!

A larger surface area (e.g. added cooling fins) would result in more rapid cooling. Black color also cools faster than a lighter color. A true blackbody will cool the fastest.
 
Huh? Basic physics? But it has not been acertained that there is a heating issue at all.
Correct. My prior post only addresses the science. Not ascertain if there’s a problem or not.
A larger surface area (e.g. added cooling fins) would result in more rapid cooling. Black color also cools faster than a lighter color. A true blackbody will cool the fastest.
You’re correct. All of those variables change the rate of heat dissipation.
 
Correct. My prior post only addresses the science. Not ascertain if there’s a problem or not.

You’re correct. All of those variables change the rate of heat.
I see what you mean I haven’t used it in years but specific heat: Q =s•m•∆T shows that relationship between heat applied, mass and temp change. I don’t know why I thought it had a function of time in it 😅
 
I remember watching a series of videos from Banks Power where they looked at aftermarket covers, they found that some of them alter the oil that gets sent to the pinion bearings and can actually cause premature wear. Was at least interesting to see how things work behind the cover.

 
I see what you mean I haven’t used it in years but specific heat: Q =s•m•∆T shows that relationship between heat applied, mass and temp change. I don’t know why I thought it had a function of time in it 😅
I’ve got the principal, but you’ve got the math. My hat’s off to you, sir.
 
The only reason you need aftermarket covers is for slightly more protection. I've seen a few stock ones get smashed in pretty good, but it takes a TON of effort to do it.
 
I would trust Banks before the diesel bros. I only changed my rear diff cover because I got caught on a rock and opened up. Could never get it to seal after that.
 
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