19 JL axle questions

Neohiofan

New member
I sold my jk and ordered a 19 Rubicon JL. I plan to put 37” tires with race line beadlocks on it with a to be determined 2” lift. I also have teraflex falcon shocks. I want to rock krawl like I did with my jk. With the front axle disconnect hole and starting to see broken front axle because of this is it worth it to upgrade to a dynatrac prorock 44 housing? I’d had arb air lockers before on my jk. Would it be worth to upgrade again or just keep the elocker? If I upgrade to rcv axle shafts which should I get the one or two piece shafts? Should I stay with 4.10 gears with an auto and 37s or upgrade to 4.88? Last question is hydro assist needed with the new JL steering setup especially in rocks?

I don’t know much about the JL axles and want something that will hold up to moderate wheeling with 37s but understand easy on skinny peddle. ‘

Thank you for the help in advance
 
What's broken? Can you get a refund on the shocks? I'd skip the rcv. Run the 4.10 and see if you like them. The new transmission is what's making the 4.10 gears a good choice.

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I sold my jk and ordered a 19 Rubicon JL. I plan to put 37” tires with race line beadlocks on it with a to be determined 2” lift. I also have teraflex falcon shocks. I want to rock krawl like I did with my jk. With the front axle disconnect hole and starting to see broken front axle because of this is it worth it to upgrade to a dynatrac prorock 44 housing? I’d had arb air lockers before on my jk. Would it be worth to upgrade again or just keep the elocker? If I upgrade to rcv axle shafts which should I get the one or two piece shafts? Should I stay with 4.10 gears with an auto and 37s or upgrade to 4.88? Last question is hydro assist needed with the new JL steering setup especially in rocks?

I don’t know much about the JL axles and want something that will hold up to moderate wheeling with 37s but understand easy on skinny peddle. ‘

Thank you for the help in advance

Someone else broke a housing at the FAD area, can't remember who. Also, contact Dynatrac with all of those questions, they're building them already and have considered a lot. I don't think the Elocker will work because Dynatrac still uses the JK Carrier and gears on the new JL housing. They had such smooth operation with so many they decided not to change that part of the housing.
 
I sold my jk and ordered a 19 Rubicon JL. I plan to put 37” tires with race line beadlocks on it with a to be determined 2” lift. I also have teraflex falcon shocks. I want to rock krawl like I did with my jk. With the front axle disconnect hole and starting to see broken front axle because of this is it worth it to upgrade to a dynatrac prorock 44 housing? I’d had arb air lockers before on my jk. Would it be worth to upgrade again or just keep the elocker? If I upgrade to rcv axle shafts which should I get the one or two piece shafts? Should I stay with 4.10 gears with an auto and 37s or upgrade to 4.88? Last question is hydro assist needed with the new JL steering setup especially in rocks?

I don’t know much about the JL axles and want something that will hold up to moderate wheeling with 37s but understand easy on skinny peddle. ‘

Thank you for the help in advance
Cancel your order. Buy an unlimited sport use the money you save to buy proper axles.

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Cancel your order. Buy an unlimited sport use the money you save to buy proper axles.

LOL!! I see you're on a mission :crazyeyes:

It'd be a far cry to assume that everyone will play hard enough with their JL that they'd need to upgrade their axles. So far, I've got over 20,000 miles on my JL and being that I work from home, most of those miles are from heading out to the trail, wheeling them and then driving back home. So far, my front axle is still straight and my rear flanges are too. Granted, I personally know people who've snapped their front axle in half and/or bent it and have had bent flanges in the rear. BUT, so far, they've been the exception and not the rule. Most of the people I see on the internet NEVER wheel as hard as they do.

With all that said, a Rubicon is still a great platform to start with especially being that they come with a 4:1 transfer case, e-disco and interior options that you just can't get on a Sport. Also, if you ever plan on selling it, they'll hold their value a LOT better too. Of course, I can only speak from personal experience.
 
LOL!! I see you're on a mission :crazyeyes:

It'd be a far cry to assume that everyone will play hard enough with their JL that they'd need to upgrade their axles. So far, I've got over 20,000 miles on my JL and being that I work from home, most of those miles are from heading out to the trail, wheeling them and then driving back home. So far, my front axle is still straight and my rear flanges are too. Granted, I personally know people who've snapped their front axle in half and/or bent it and have had bent flanges in the rear. BUT, so far, they've been the exception and not the rule. Most of the people I see on the internet NEVER wheel as hard as they do.

With all that said, a Rubicon is still a great platform to start with especially being that they come with a 4:1 transfer case, e-disco and interior options that you just can't get on a Sport. Also, if you ever plan on selling it, they'll hold their value a LOT better too. Of course, I can only speak from personal experience.
I agree about resell but to actually know of someone who broke there axle makes me gun shy about running 37s which is really as big as I wanna go. Im not assuming anything but on the trail anything can happen. Was Mel getting jiggy with it or what? I saw the other Pic where the guy was hammering it and broke.
My buddy was gonna order a sport with Dana 60s at the dealership. They told him he would have to install them.
Makes me totally rethink selling my JK.

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I agree about resell but to actually know of someone who broke there axle makes me gun shy about running 37s which is really as big as I wanna go. Was Mel getting jiggy with it or what? I saw the other Pic where the guy was hammering it and broke.
My buddy was gonna order a sport with Dana 60s at the dealership. They told him he would have to I stall them.
Makes me totally rethink selling my JK.

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Like I said, I am running 37's now and so far, I've yet to have any issues. If you've seen any of our videos, you know how we use it. As far as Mel goes, he was moving at a good clip and at night, came over a roller and hit a BIG rock in a wash out that he couldn't see. Essentially, it was a crash and what I'm trying to say is that there was nothing normal about his circumstances. I know a lot of guys like to believe they wheel super hard but I've always found the reality to be, just a case over exaggerated imaginations. Trust me, I've personally seen 3 JK front axle housing break over the last 10+ years and they've all been the exception and not the rule. Bent front housings or bent rear flanges, sure, that happens all the time but not broken housings. If all you're gonna do is run 37's, I wouldn't loose any sleep over factory axles. Certainly, the rear will hold up well and the front can always be upgraded with a ProRock 44 for a lot less than it would cost to buy all the other goodies you can only get on a Rubicon.
 
Like I said, I am running 37's now and so far, I've yet to have any issues. If you've seen any of our videos, you know how we use it. As far as Mel goes, he was moving at a good clip and at night, came over a roller and hit a BIG rock in a wash out that he couldn't see. Essentially, it was a crash and what I'm trying to say is that there was nothing normal about his circumstances. I know a lot of guys like to believe they wheel super hard but I've always found the reality to be, just a case over exaggerated imaginations. Trust me, I've personally seen 3 JK front axle housing break over the last 10+ years and they've all been the exception and not the rule. Bent front housings or bent rear flanges, sure, that happens all the time but not broken housings. If all you're gonna do is run 37's, I wouldn't loose any sleep over factory axles. Certainly, the rear will hold up well and the front can always be upgraded with a ProRock 44 for a lot less than it would cost to buy all the other goodies you can only get on a Rubicon.
Thanks for talking me down bro. Haha it was getting cold on that ledge.

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Thanks for talking me down bro. Haha it was getting cold on that ledge.

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:cheesy: Like I said, I've been there and swore I would never buy another Rubicon. Not that there's anything wrong with buying a Sport and building it up but if you can afford a Rubicon and start there, that's what I would do and based on experience.
 
:cheesy: Like I said, I've been there and swore I would never buy another Rubicon. Not that there's anything wrong with buying a Sport and building it up but if you can afford a Rubicon and start there, that's what I would do and based on experience.

^^^this^^^ I was one of those that thought it would be smarter to buy a loaded sport and build it. Within a month a good friend of mine bought a Rubicon and we’ve been really close in our builds. Retail difference on the two jeeps was less than $5k. I’ve easily spent more than that just to upgrade the front axle, put in gears, chromoly shafts and lockers and swap in a Rubicon t-case after breaking my stock t-case. And that’s not including the suspension tires etc. In the long run, I’ve spent more and I’m only running marginally stronger than my buddy is on his Rubicon. We both have similar styles and while we don’t play as hard as some, we do enjoy our jeeps and I feel we push them quite hard at times. Granted I’m talking about the JK but the JL is SO much better than the JK out of the box I would never buy anything BUT a Rubicon for all the things I mentioned above. It’s just better right out of the gate. Smarter money is on a Rubicon.
 
^^^this^^^ I was one of those that thought it would be smarter to buy a loaded sport and build it. Within a month a good friend of mine bought a Rubicon and we’ve been really close in our builds. Retail difference on the two jeeps was less than $5k. I’ve easily spent more than that just to upgrade the front axle, put in gears, chromoly shafts and lockers and swap in a Rubicon t-case after breaking my stock t-case. And that’s not including the suspension tires etc. In the long run, I’ve spent more and I’m only running marginally stronger than my buddy is on his Rubicon. We both have similar styles and while we don’t play as hard as some, we do enjoy our jeeps and I feel we push them quite hard at times. Granted I’m talking about the JK but the JL is SO much better than the JK out of the box I would never buy anything BUT a Rubicon for all the things I mentioned above. It’s just better right out of the gate. Smarter money is on a Rubicon.

IF you can afford it. Not everyone can and again, there's nothing wrong with working within your means. My only point to all this is that IF you can afford to start with a Rubicon, it is the better way to go. :yup:
 
IF you can afford it. Not everyone can and again, there's nothing wrong with working within your means. My only point to all this is that IF you can afford to start with a Rubicon, it is the better way to go. :yup:

That is a good point to make. Not everyone has the $50k for a Rubicon or want that kind of payment lol. And building over time may make better sense in their budget.
 
I will add that not all Rubicons come with a $55K and up price.
The one we got was $43, and while it is not as loaded as many, it has what makes it a Rubicon, the gears, lockers, disco's, high fenders, etc...

With that, I am not worried about the axles or any of the drivetrain. A small lift will get 37's on it when the time is right, and that will do the trick without worry.

I feel it would be hard to impossible to buy a Sport and build it up for less money, and add ons don't get the financing that a new vehicle can.
 
I will add that not all Rubicons come with a $55K and up price.
The one we got was $43, and while it is not as loaded as many, it has what makes it a Rubicon, the gears, lockers, disco's, high fenders, etc...

With that, I am not worried about the axles or any of the drivetrain. A small lift will get 37's on it when the time is right, and that will do the trick without worry.

I feel it would be hard to impossible to buy a Sport and build it up for less money, and add ons don't get the financing that a new vehicle can.

Yup, prime example of what I'm talking about right there. Hell, I've seen Sports selling in the $40k range. Again, I tried to go that path and found it just didn't make any sense. IF one can afford to start with a Rubicon, it definitely makes the most sense.
 
I ordered a completely loaded 19 Rubicon 2 door JL. The only options I did not get were smokers group, safety sensors, & block heater. I already called dynatrac. I’m going to order a prorock 44 housing. Gonna get rcv axle shafts but not sure about the locker. I’d like to keep an Eaton elocker in it but know arb air lockers are better. From there I’m gonna add 2” taller springs, teraflex falcon shocks, Adams driveshafts, aluminum skid plate from rock hard 4x4, raceline beadlocks, nitto ridge grapplers 37s. The 37s are for wheeling and I’ll put the 33s on for going back and forth. I also have arb dual air compressor, warn zeon10s platinum winch, and front facing camera to install.

I have to travel between Ohio and Georgia for work about a year to year and half till my daughter graduates high school and my wife moves down. Right now I have a 14jk polar edition with rock krawler 3.5” xfactor lift, race line beadlocks, 37s, prorock 44 unlimited front axle, dynatrac trail 60 rear axle, Adams 1350 driveshafts, evo protein skid plates, full psc hydro assist setup with their big bore box and cooler. It has more but you get the gist of it. I beat the hell out of this jeep on rocks wth no issues. Ben to rock garden @ creekbed at Rausch, black trails at windrock. I would like my JL to be able to do some of this stuff until I’m done commuting in it and buy crate 60s and do the same to this my jk does.

My main concern was the front JL axle breaking because of the hole from fad. Thanks for the info.
 
I ordered a completely loaded 19 Rubicon 2 door JL. The only options I did not get were smokers group, safety sensors, & block heater. I already called dynatrac. I’m going to order a prorock 44 housing. Gonna get rcv axle shafts but not sure about the locker. I’d like to keep an Eaton elocker in it but know arb air lockers are better. From there I’m gonna add 2” taller springs, teraflex falcon shocks, Adams driveshafts, aluminum skid plate from rock hard 4x4, raceline beadlocks, nitto ridge grapplers 37s. The 37s are for wheeling and I’ll put the 33s on for going back and forth. I also have arb dual air compressor, warn zeon10s platinum winch, and front facing camera to install.

I have to travel between Ohio and Georgia for work about a year to year and half till my daughter graduates high school and my wife moves down. Right now I have a 14jk polar edition with rock krawler 3.5” xfactor lift, race line beadlocks, 37s, prorock 44 unlimited front axle, dynatrac trail 60 rear axle, Adams 1350 driveshafts, evo protein skid plates, full psc hydro assist setup with their big bore box and cooler. It has more but you get the gist of it. I beat the hell out of this jeep on rocks wth no issues. Ben to rock garden @ creekbed at Rausch, black trails at windrock. I would like my JL to be able to do some of this stuff until I’m done commuting in it and buy crate 60s and do the same to this my jk does.

My main concern was the front JL axle breaking because of the hole from fad. Thanks for the info.

You’re gonna run teraflex shocks. I doubt your axle would break from actually wheeling hard. They don’t go together.

And wtf is a black trail?

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