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Thanks for the confirmation!

Yea, from what I can tell Dana Spicer recommends using top fill hole for first fill and then lower for maintenance/refill. Seems a squirt or two extra in the top would be safe, like you suggested.

Good call. I double checked, they're all 10.9, but the rears are properly stamped and the fronts are poorly stamped. I read about others snapping them when torquing to 30 ft-lbs. I had already torqued the rears to 30 ft-lbs and that felt fine, but on the front they didn't feel right when...

Ok thanks. I wasn't sure, when I looked up torque specs I saw something about not reusing "fasteners" so I assumed it was bolts. I'm hoping just tightening it down does the trick. As for the fluid, even if too much fluid, worse case scenario is it boils out of the breather line, right?

Thank you. Here is the differential cover.

I just discovered my rear differential is dripping gear oil. Unbelievably, some of the bolts were literally finger loose. My original suspension install was botched beyond belief and I suspect the same happened here (Dana Spicer covers installed during a re-gear). I've since torqued them down...

As usual, enjoy the videos and educational material! Well done!

I definitely enjoy your videos, but these photos and captions were very enjoyable too! Glad you enjoyed being in denial! hah

I'm with Eddie here. I paid what I thought was a very reputable local shop to install my 3.5" bolt-on lift and do a few other upgrades. It turns out they left some of the steering linkages grossly loose, incorrectly seated the front springs, twisted/tore a boot seal, left the alignment...

Thanks! Love the D! Lived in Royal Oak for 3 years (2012-2015) and worked/trained downtown at Henry Ford Hospital! :)

Hi all, I've participated on the thread, but never officially introduced myself. I previously had a 2012 JLU Sahara, lightly modified, did a lot of great exploring. Wife, children, work related training happened and time was tight, so we made the decision to sell. Schedule is still tight...

So, just to close out this thread for others who come across it. After correcting the (botched) alignment, the ESC light on all banked turns has officially gone away, even when taking them faster than I should.

Yes, absolutely true too.

I have so much appreciation for these forums, the feedback others give and then all of the entertaining and educational videos on youtube, particularly by Eddie. I'm genuinely thankful! Over the last few weeks I have discovered far too many mistakes by the shop who did my install. Absolute...

I'm also on a 3.5" lift w/ 37" KM3s. I had an issue with being darty/wandering, which appears to have just been a sloppy alignment (way too much toe in). No bump steer even at high speeds (70+). I have upgraded (bottom mount) drag link and tie rod from steer smarts, which may be helping, but...

Interesting. I just looked it up and yes, I'm totally going to do this. Thus far it rides well and I tried to measure the control arms while on the Jeep and they seem to measure out to the manufacturer recommended lengths, so crossing my fingers they're all set at good lengths. I can always...

Update - I checked the ABS/wheel sensors and lines all look good. I started reading and re-watched some of Eddie's front-end videos, in particular the one with the new Dynatrac axle and Jim, the owner of Dynatrac. They do a crude alignment in that video, so I checked mine, the toe in was about...

Thanks for all the replies everyone -- I'll take a closer look at the wheel sensors. Hopefully I can resolve the issue.

Yes, wheel is centered. It only happens when in banked turns at speed. Yes, plenty of slack on the sensor/brake lines. I figured the rubber noise was probably normal and definitely no rubbing.

Yes, though technically shop set it to 35.5" tires because that's what the 37" KM3s measure out at on the Jeep. I wonder if that could be a factor? For more backstory, the suspension and steering was done at a higher cost, reputable shop, but they forgot to torque down the tie-rod adjuster...