Anyone with a 2012 have this issue?

2012jkfng702

2012jkfng702

New member
Okay I have two issues, the first is the welds on my front differential on the passenger side that hold the sleeve to the pumpkin, all four are cracked. Can I just drill them out and re weld them or if they shifted will it matter where I re weld them? Second, since I got the jeep, every time I put the transfer case into four wheel drive I get transfer case fluid splatter all over the bottom of my tub. It is getting less each time but basically still a issue in my head. Did Chrysler overfill the transfercase??? P4221234.jpgP4221235.jpgP4221236.jpgP4221237.jpg
 
wow, that is some poor quality control from whoever or whatever welder made those plug welds but really, you should be fine as is. the axle tubes are pressed into the differential and that in and of itself should be enough to hold everything in place. the plug welds are made to ensure as much. if anything, you could probably just add to the weld and fill in the difference.

regarding your t-case, where exactly is this splattering coming from? and, are you sure that it's ATF you're seeing?
 
Are you sure the driveshaft yoke is tight on the transfercase?

If it did not get torqued down enough you could be leaking fluid from the output shaft.
 
wayoflife said:
wow, that is some poor quality control from whoever or whatever welder made those plug welds but really, you should be fine as is. the axle tubes are pressed into the differential and that in and of itself should be enough to hold everything in place. the plug welds are made to ensure as much. if anything, you could probably just add to the weld and fill in the difference.

regarding your t-case, where exactly is this splattering coming from? and, are you sure that it's ATF you're seeing?
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Yeah the quality sucked on those welds, wait till you see the cast on the transfer case. Just looks kinda rough to me. I'm pretty sure its ATF Eddie, Bright reddish maroon in color and I think it's coming from the top of the t case which is kinda weird. This problem was there before I lifted the Jeep. I have made my dealer aware of the problem so might have to warranty it if you guys think it's something I can't or shouldn't deal with. Here are the picks. I'm gonna drill the welds out on the pumpkin side and just re weld them for my piece of mind. Thanks for the info.

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i think chris might be right on this one. being that you have an aftermarket flange, you most likely don't have the output shaft nut on tight enough or, the seal is damaged.
 
Thanks both of you guys for the input. It leaked like that in stock form from the factory before I had the drive shafts done, does that make a difference? As soon as I get home I'll check the torque, would you happen to have that number handy??? Thanks again guys...
 
2012jkfng702 said:
Thanks both of you guys for the input. It leaked like that in stock form from the factory before I had the drive shafts done, does that make a difference? As soon as I get home I'll check the torque, would you happen to have that number handy??? Thanks again guys...
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Chris: I think the torque specs are listed on project-JK. I'm running to a meeting or I'd link it for ya'. Good luck figuring this out!
 
Thanks Mike, pm or text me when you get back in town... I'll post the outcome when I get a chance to get under my Jeep. pretty much rained all day here.
 
So, I am a procrastinator... I just got everything checked out for this a month ago (Yes procrastinator) and here is a little update. Chrysler said that they won't warranty the plug welds because I have a 6 inch lift with 37's even though I basically stated that I wouldn't mind that they didn't warranty it if the quality of the welds were worth a damn and I broke them. The service guy went so far as to tell me not even to submit it to the warranty department cause they might not warranty other parts of my vehicle because of my lift. On the T case, they stated that the rubber seal on the drivers side right next to where the front drive shaft goes in was not put in at the factory so they ordered me the seal and basically said it will be at least a day job maybe two. Now for the last week when I drive any where, the temp gauge stays right under half way but when I shut it off, the water boils into the overflow tank. About 10 minutes after, it sucks it back into the radiator. Any ideas?
 
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