Installation of the ProRock Axle set

Finn Sizzle

New member
Hey Folks, I finally received my axle set and will be installing them shortly. We will be doing a garage party to get them installed. Looking for feedback/gotchas from anyone who have already installed them. Is there anything I should be preparing for as part of the installation, and pre-work that I need to do? Here is what I know I need to do:

Post Install
- Bleed Brakes
- Measure up for new Driveshafts

I had not received any instructions with the axles, I'm guessing it should be a simple pull OEM and replace with new axles, however is there a specific post install break in process that I should follow?

I did find some information on Dynatrac website on gear fluid change: https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/how-to-fill-your-dynatrac-prorock-axle-with-gear-oil/

They did list this as part of a new axle break-in:
-If this is a new axle, not simply changing the oil your existing ProRock® axle, you’ll need to repeat the oil fill procedure after 200-500 miles to make sure the axle has enough oil in it.
-When the axle is new and “breaking-in” it sometimes runs hotter than normal, up to 125C (260F). This may cause some oil to be pushed out through the vent hose at the top of the axle. This should subside as the axle cools and runs at normal temps. Do not be alarmed, but it does make a mess.

Any insight/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks folks!
 
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On my XD60:
-The ABS lines are not plug and play
-track bar was a special length


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Hey Folks, I finally received my axle set and will be installing them shortly. We will be doing a garage party to get them installed. Looking for feedback/gotchas from anyone who have already installed them. Is there anything I should be preparing for as part of the installation, and pre-work that I need to do? Here is what I know I need to do:

Post Install
- Bleed Brakes
- Measure up for new Driveshafts

I had not received any instructions with the axles, I'm guessing it should be a simple pull OEM and replace with new axles, however is there a specific post install break in process that I should follow?

I did find some information on Dynatrac website on gear fluid change: https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/how-to-fill-your-dynatrac-prorock-axle-with-gear-oil/

They did list this as part of a new axle break-in:
-If this is a new axle, not simply changing the oil your existing ProRock[emoji768] axle, you’ll need to repeat the oil fill procedure after 200-500 miles to make sure the axle has enough oil in it.
-When the axle is new and “breaking-in” it sometimes runs hotter than normal, up to 125C (260F). This may cause some oil to be pushed out through the vent hose at the top of the axle. This should subside as the axle cools and runs at normal temps. Do not be alarmed, but it does make a mess.

Any insight/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks folks!

It should all be almost plug and play. Just bleed the brakes, break in the new pads and rotors, break in gears and change fluid after 500 miles. Also measure driveshafts like you mentioned.
 
I don't think it's the case with all installations but my jku required an abs bleed.
With the extra width up front caused some rubbing issues at full bump, which I resolved by trimming for sheet metal.
I also could not keep my rear lower axle side bolts torqued for the first 1k. I re-torqued them three times before they finally stayed put. They made an awful creaking popping noise that we actually thought at first was an internal bad gear setup.


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If you look up any manufacturer's gear break in instructions online, they're all about the same. Keep your speed down as much as you can for first 500 miles and don't tow. If you have to do long highway driving, try to stop and let the gears cool down. When I did mine (front). I kept the axle on jackstands and then used floor jacks to slowly raise it up. I installed the upper mount bolts first, then the lower. Fully cycle your axle before you put the springs in to make sure it's not rubbing anywhere, etc.
 
If you've changed out your front speed sensors to something aftermarket (timken etc) in my experience their not as long as the factory mopar/jeep speed sensors. I replaced mine with a new mopar set and the length worked out great.


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Hey All, this past weekend we got the axles connected. Looks like I was missing the Parking Brake adapters (called Dynatrac today and they are sending them out) and also instructions for the reroute (Dynatrac e-mailed me the .pdf for it). Those of you who have rerouted the OEM Parking brake cables, were they long enough to connect up and are there any concerns with them pulling out at flex? I also saw a few posts about the J8 brake cables, however all of the Chrysler part #s that are provided are no longer available. Anyone have current part #s for the left and right cable?

Also, while connecting up the rear shocks, the piggy back interferes with the track bar bracket. I can turn the shock around (OCD about to kick in), however it looks like that bracket could come right up on the main shock cylinder when it stuffs up on that side. Any recommendations? (see pics for reference)

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Thanks everyone, appreciate the feedback and guidance.
 
Okay, I know this is an old thread but… my ABS sensors do not fit in the axles. As in the hole is smaller than the diameter of the sensor. Anyone else experience this and if so what did you do?

I am considering slightly reducing the size of the sensor housing.

Thanks for any thoughts or shared experience.
 
Okay, I know this is an old thread but… my ABS sensors do not fit in the axles. As in the hole is smaller than the diameter of the sensor. Anyone else experience this and if so what did you do?

I am considering slightly reducing the size of the sensor housing.

Thanks for any thoughts or shared experience.
I would think you would want to enlarge the hole rather than reduce the sensor. If you ever have to replace the sensor it would simply fit in the axle that way.
 
I would think you would want to enlarge the hole rather than reduce the sensor. If you ever have to replace the sensor it would simply fit in the axle that way.
You would think that would be easy. Without special tools, bits and disassembly not so much. I am as interested in what others have experienced… did anyone else have this problem?
 
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