Does this look right?

Seahawkfan

Seahawkfan

Hooked
Getting a small leak Evap code P0456. Had work done to the jeep and they had to remove the fuel tank to do the work. So I'm a little suspicious of the timing of this CEL. Crawled around under there the other day and pushed on all the connecters, to make sure they were seated properly. I saw this little seam in one of the nipples sprayed with WD and wiped down to see if I could get a better look. Does this look factory or does it look like a repair? I think if it's a repair they did a hell of a job. What do you all think.
Jeep has 35000 miles on it and I never had any CEL until I had the most recent work done. Thanks
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PITA to get to but a simple fix, I had to do this last week. I never got a code from it. Did you clear it and it popped back up?
 
Seahawkfan said:
So your pretty confident it's a crack? Looks exactly like your photo. Making me think it may not be a crack. Is that after a fix?
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His was cracked and he spent the better part of two years trying to get it figured out to get the jeep to pass emissions. Idk if this is before or after the repair though.
 
My Jeep threw that code too a few weeks ago. The only issue for mine was the fact that the end of the rubber hose itself where it leads into the intake manifold had slipped off a little bit. Slipped it back on and got a little hose clamp around it now. The code didn't go away for a bit but the code was cleared on the Jeep's end, so I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and that did the trick.

But in your case I'd put my money on the crack Overlander spotted originally.
 
Get a small piece of tubing that fits inside the diameter of the plastic piece. You may have to drill it out slightly. Add some epoxy for metal and plastic and push them together. You want the metal tube to go past the crack about a quarter of an inch. Don’t use too much epoxy as that will plug the hole. I used about 3/4 “ long tube for my fix.

Had a similair issue on my 2010 JK and that is how I fixed it. Price to replace the plastic piece was crazy high. I found my fix searching the net so there are probably better explanations out there. Scared the hell out of me drilling the plastic out, but go slow and you will be okay.
 
that's a crack; if the the shop had to drop the tank, good chance that's when it happened.
of course I'm sure the shop will tell you they didn't do it.
 
Eagle1911 said:
Get a small piece of tubing that fits inside the diameter of the plastic piece. You may have to drill it out slightly. Add some epoxy for metal and plastic and push them together. You want the metal tube to go past the crack about a quarter of an inch. Don’t use too much epoxy as that will plug the hole. I used about 3/4 “ long tube for my fix.

Had a similair issue on my 2010 JK and that is how I fixed it. Price to replace the plastic piece was crazy high. I found my fix searching the net so there are probably better explanations out there. Scared the hell out of me drilling the plastic out, but go slow and you will be okay.
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I would not recommend this yet. This is how I fixed mine but mine was ripped clean off. I would just use JB weld for plastic and patch up the crack. Clean it well and put multiple coats on it. I would go break it off if it isn’t broken off already. If you fuck it up there is no replacement. You have to replace the entire tank.
 
OverlanderJK said:
I would not recommend this yet. This is how I fixed mine but mine was ripped clean off. I would just use JB weld for plastic and patch up the crack. Clean it well and put multiple coats on it. I would go break it off if it isn’t broken off already. If you fuck it up there is no replacement. You have to replace the entire tank.
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Really? So that's why I couldn't find that part.
 
I have the same issue now, I get the check engine light and either the P0456 or P0457 code along with gascap spelled out across me odometer. I clear the codes every 4 or 5 days then it comes back. I changed the ESIM, Purge valve, both were inexpensive. I checked the plastic nipple I could not see a crack at all, but I still put some epoxy on it. I still get the code, I really just need to bring it in to my friends garage and do the smoke test. He just bought a new smoke machine. I really don't care about the dam evap system to be honest, I do not have emissions testing in my county and it does not effect anything on the vehicle. All it does it trap gasoline vapers in the evap canister and when you start your vehicle the purge valve through a vacum sucks the fumes into your jeep to burn off the vapors. The system checks for, I think 1 pound of pressure. I really don't care but the check engine light is just annoying. This all started on my Jeep around the 228,000 mile mark.
 
monstrousmac said:
I have the same issue now, I get the check engine light and either the P0456 or P0457 code along with gascap spelled out across me odometer. I clear the codes every 4 or 5 days then it comes back. I changed the ESIM, Purge valve, both were inexpensive. I checked the plastic nipple I could not see a crack at all, but I still put some epoxy on it. I still get the code, I really just need to bring it in to my friends garage and do the smoke test. He just bought a new smoke machine. I really don't care about the dam evap system to be honest, I do not have emissions testing in my county and it does not effect anything on the vehicle. All it does it trap gasoline vapers in the evap canister and when you start your vehicle the purge valve through a vacum sucks the fumes into your jeep to burn off the vapors. The system checks for, I think 1 pound of pressure. I really don't care but the check engine light is just annoying. This all started on my Jeep around the 228,000 mile mark.
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Smoke system won’t detect anything if it’s an issue with one of those nipples. I tried that multiple times and left smoke on for hours.
 
OverlanderJK said:
Smoke system won’t detect anything if it’s an issue with one of those nipples. I tried that multiple times and left smoke on for hours.
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Hey Overlander JK,

It should also check for cracked Evap lines, correct? Just asking. I thought maybe one of the Evap lines might be cracked since they seem to be hard plastic lines. I figured with a smoke test you would be able to see if smoke was leaking out of one of the lines if it had a hairline crack somewhere. What are your thoughts?
 
monstrousmac said:
Hey Overlander JK,

It should also check for cracked Evap lines, correct? Just asking. I thought maybe one of the Evap lines might be cracked since they seem to be hard plastic lines. I figured with a smoke test you would be able to see if smoke was leaking out of one of the lines if it had a hairline crack somewhere. What are your thoughts?
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It should in theory. From what I have seen though is that the smoke is too heavy to pass through a tiny crack that would throw a code. I would guess after my years of diagnostic on this issue that it is something to do with that white canister on top of the tank or a small slit in the gas filler tube caused by the tub hitting.

I do sometimes like to wish evil on people but I would not wish this issue on anyone lol
 
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