Worth stretching a JKU?

Carbon6

New member
I’m currently building 07 Dana 60 and Sterling rear (in the process of getting parts) and debating on staying with my Evo stage 1 bolt on coilovers vs installing a long arm kit/stretching the rear a few inches. Was wondering if it’s even needed to stretch the wb on a JKU? Not my daily but planning to drive to/from trails. Planning to run 40s/42s
 
I’m currently building 07 Dana 60 and Sterling rear (in the process of getting parts) and debating on staying with my Evo stage 1 bolt on coilovers vs installing a long arm kit/stretching the rear a few inches. Was wondering if it’s even needed to stretch the wb on a JKU? Not my daily but planning to drive to/from trails. Planning to run 40s/42s

I think a jku wheelbase is long enough that you don’t need to stretch it.

Long arms are a good idea tho for ride quality and keep the geometry where it should be especially since your going to drive to and from the trails
 
I’m currently building 07 Dana 60 and Sterling rear (in the process of getting parts) and debating on staying with my Evo stage 1 bolt on coilovers vs installing a long arm kit/stretching the rear a few inches. Was wondering if it’s even needed to stretch the wb on a JKU? Not my daily but planning to drive to/from trails. Planning to run 40s/42s

I can’t say that it makes anything better or worse, it just makes for a different style of wheeling. There’s pros and cons to every mod on your Jeep.


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I can’t say that it makes anything better or worse, it just makes for a different style of wheeling. There’s pros and cons to every mod on your Jeep.


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What style of wheeling goes more hand in hand with long arms and a stretched wheelbase on a jku? Just curious of your opinion. I’ve been comparing and contrasting my setup (stock control arm brackets) with a coworkers longarm setup.


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What style of wheeling goes more hand in hand with long arms and a stretched wheelbase on a jku? Just curious of your opinion. I’ve been comparing and contrasting my setup (stock control arm brackets) with a coworkers longarm setup.


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Long arms don't stretch your wheelbase. Just make it perform better. your axles stay right where they were designed. You can make long arms longer than normal to stretch your wheelbase, which on a 4 door I'd say is probably wasted effort unless you want to do it just to do it.
 
What style of wheeling goes more hand in hand with long arms and a stretched wheelbase on a jku? Just curious of your opinion. I’ve been comparing and contrasting my setup (stock control arm brackets) with a coworkers longarm setup.


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The longer the wheelbase, the better the ride. The longer the arms, the better the ride. Now just because you combine the 2 doesn’t necessarily mean it’s going to wheel better, but it doesn’t mean it won’t either. It’s not a straightforward question and answer, just really depends on the person driving it and how they manipulate it through whatever the obstacle is.

I could say that long arm kits perform best at speed but that also depends on the geometry and the shock/spring package with it. It’s a lot to consider if you really want to understand it. It’s best to find a reputable shop and sit down with them so they can walk you through the pros and cons.


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Right on, makes sense...I would like to wheel with long arms on a jku some time. I wonder if it would be more stable in off camber situations where suspension is flexed out


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I’m debating between the TMR aluminum arms ($2060, never seen on sale) vs Evo’s long arm ($2700, $2300 during 15% off sale). I’m only looking to stretch the wheel base a few inches front and rear but not sure how much is possible since I’m using Evo’s bolt on coilovers. I’m looking at dialing in the rear diff with the Sterling there and maybe pushing the front out a few inches for better climbing angles
 
I’m debating between the TMR aluminum arms ($2060, never seen on sale) vs Evo’s long arm ($2700, $2300 during 15% off sale). I’m only looking to stretch the wheel base a few inches front and rear but not sure how much is possible since I’m using Evo’s bolt on coilovers. I’m looking at dialing in the rear diff with the Sterling there and maybe pushing the front out a few inches for better climbing angles

Are you really going to be able to tell the difference that a few inches is going to make vs the amount of time and effort that's going to be involved? :thinking:
 
Are you really going to be able to tell the difference that a few inches is going to make vs the amount of time and effort that's going to be involved? :thinking:

See what your wife says and report back.
 
I’m debating between the TMR aluminum arms ($2060, never seen on sale) vs Evo’s long arm ($2700, $2300 during 15% off sale). I’m only looking to stretch the wheel base a few inches front and rear but not sure how much is possible since I’m using Evo’s bolt on coilovers. I’m looking at dialing in the rear diff with the Sterling there and maybe pushing the front out a few inches for better climbing angles

You are aware that Long Arms will NOT give you a stretch, right? These kits might have enough adjustment for 1/2” or so of stretch, but that’s it. If you want it stretched several inches you will have to get custom arms, track bar brackets, probably reconfigure your coilover brackets, extend your driveshaft, possibly brake and e-brake lines, etc.


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You are aware that Long Arms will NOT give you a stretch, right? These kits might have enough adjustment for 1/2” or so of stretch, but that’s it. If you want it stretched several inches you will have to get custom arms, track bar brackets, probably reconfigure your coilover brackets, extend your driveshaft, possibly brake and e-brake lines, etc.

Yes, I am aware of that. If I were to stretch anything it would be an inch or two either front, rear, or both. Since I’m installing a Sterling and Dana 60, I already have a TMR trackbar bracket to relocate that and I was already anticipating that my driveshafts might need to be lengthened/redone to work with the new configuration. Brake lines *should* be ok and the parking brake will be a custom setup. The coilover brackets are an unknown and thus why I asked here due to people who have built/stretched their or customers Jeep already and could educate me on how, why, and if I should go down this build. I’ve also been playing with the idea of running a 4link rear and rear mounted gas tank.

I'd pay the extra 15% elsewhere to not deal with Northridge.

Plenty of other companies that offer Evo 15% off. Northridge is just who came to mind first since they advertise more aggressively, use whoever you prefer.
 
I’m debating between the TMR aluminum arms ($2060, never seen on sale) vs Evo’s long arm ($2700, $2300 during 15% off sale). I’m only looking to stretch the wheel base a few inches front and rear but not sure how much is possible since I’m using Evo’s bolt on coilovers. I’m looking at dialing in the rear diff with the Sterling there and maybe pushing the front out a few inches for better climbing angles

I have no experience with either, but wouldn't aluminum control arms be more prone to bend and/or get elongated holes at the joints vs steel arms?


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