Say I were to get the jk 2.5 stock mod system from rock krawler, would I then get to choose any shocks I want? Or is it designed to run factory shocks I don't see how that would work
Yeah, that's a very incomplete kit. No caster correction and subpar rear track bar bracket. No bump stops. Your going to have to spend the money if you want your jeep driving good.
If budget is real tight go BB and good shocks or enjoy what you have.I'm fairly new to this stuff what all would I need in order to lift my jeep? I can't imagine it's easy as new shocks and coils would it be worth the money to buy a full kit then replace the coils? Or rather buy all the parts piece by piece until I have everything I need
Thanks
I have 3" coils and the Kings for 2.5" lift in the rear because I have the Rockstars and the longer shocks would have let my coils unseat. In the front I have the Kings for 3+ lift.I can't imagine that there is a better lift out there that is also as simple as the EVO Enforcer.
Here's what you'll need.
1) Enforcer with 3" plush ride springs and shocks of your choice. 2.5" shocks will require EVO shock relocation mounts to avoid damaging the shocks.
This pretty much describes my current setup. I have had 2 JKUs and now my fourth and favorite suspension so far. The only reason I will change this is if someone gave me a DTD. The Enforcer has what is needed no gimmicks or junk.2) EVO draglink flip kit.
3) New front drive shaft if you're lifting a 4-door. New rear as well if lifting a 2-door.
4) Some way to achieve adequate backspacing for your tires be that spacers or new wheels.
5) Trimming of the pinch seams/rock rails for tire clearance when stuffed.
6) Trimming of the plastic guard under the front bumper if you're going to keep the stock one. Otherwise your tires will rub when you are turning or stuffed.
It doesn't get much simpler than that. One thing that isn't needed but you should really consider is C-gussets as well with your larger tires.
eta: When I say that there aren't better lifts out there than the Enforcer, I mean at this level of simplicity.
Okay sweet, thanks for all the info, any ball park range on cost of you guys equipment plus tires and or wheels after its all said and done? Looking at 35s
Olrams right. So we know you wanna run 35s, but whats your upgrade buget? There are several routes you can go, all at different costs. Knowing what you plan to spend will help us all steer you in the right direction.
Well I'm a college student so I'm not bathing in money but I've got a little bit to spare if I can't run 35s for under 1000-1200 for the lift by itself id be fine with running smaller, something a little bigger than a 33 like a 33.6 or one of those odd sizes
Well I'm a college student so I'm not bathing in money but I've got a little bit to spare if I can't run 35s for under 1000-1200 for the lift by itself id be fine with running smaller, something a little bigger than a 33 like a 33.6 or one of those odd sizes
I did the rk 2.5 stock mod since I'm in college. It's an okay lift to get by with but it isn't complete enough so you'll be adding parts quite often to make up for what it is missing.
I was in the same boat did the stock mod with 35s and haven't needed any other parts. I could add arms to fix the caster but it hasn't bothered me.
With uncut fenders?
On a light 2 door, you're going to get more than 2.5". Probably closer to 3.5".
Spot on. I have the springs on a 2 door. Olram is right.
On a light 2 door, you're going to get more than 2.5". Probably closer to 3.5".
And this is for the rock krawler lift or is it for any lift?
I'd say almost any. They are marketed for 4 Drs and even then they usually account for winches/bumpers/armor. So you will most likely net more out of a lift, especially on a two dr.
Preferably id do the work myself a friend of mine has a lift in his garage and he said that he'd let me use it, hopefully to save a bit of money haha