Out of curiosity, how much did all that run you, with install? Trying to figure out how much/long to save.
Upgrade to 60's, what's it gonna cost me?
- Thread starter nmwranglerx
- Start date
Out of curiosity, how much did all that run you, with install? Trying to figure out how much/long to save.
Trail_Creeper
New member
Not to thread jack:
Have you looked into a set of junkyard axles? I mean the talk of buyin new is nice but the ability to pick up a set of 60's from a 94+ Dodge Ram 1-ton (whether it is CAD or not) just seems like it could be cheaper. Plus you can do the locker, gears, shafts, and/or brake conversions down the road, instead of forking out thousands of dollars up front.
I know there is more work to get all the sensors to read correctly but it still seems like it would be cheaper, or am i missing something? I can get a set of 60's from the local pick-n-pull for about $250 an axle. Thats really my main 'drive" we call it.
Have you looked into a set of junkyard axles? I mean the talk of buyin new is nice but the ability to pick up a set of 60's from a 94+ Dodge Ram 1-ton (whether it is CAD or not) just seems like it could be cheaper. Plus you can do the locker, gears, shafts, and/or brake conversions down the road, instead of forking out thousands of dollars up front.
I know there is more work to get all the sensors to read correctly but it still seems like it would be cheaper, or am i missing something? I can get a set of 60's from the local pick-n-pull for about $250 an axle. Thats really my main 'drive" we call it.
RDE2ROK
New member
There are a few guys here that have done that. But in all reality, after they go with the locker of choice,gearing modification of installation and still not have the beefed up tubes,E-brake and proper sensor hookups, you just aren't saving a lot. I personally will pay the extra for having my axles done right the first time and ready to play without worry. Just my :twocents:
GCM 2
New member
RDE2ROK said:
You are correct my man! You can save some money with the junkyard axles, but you have to do a lot more modifications to get the clearance and strength of a ProRock 60. The photo below is a cut away of a (top to bottom) PR44, PR80, and PR60. Junkyard 60's don't have axle tubes that thick.
Attachments
highoctane
Caught the Bug
10frank9 said:Son of a gun. I like em thick
That's what she said.
Hightower
Member
Good luck
Well said Greg. :thumb: I have never actually saved money when I tried to save money whether that is a trail break down or just the cost of buying parts twice when it becomes obvious that the particular parts really didn’t perform or work as intended. This lesson has cost me quite at bit of $$$$. :twocents::twocents:
Well said Greg. :thumb: I have never actually saved money when I tried to save money whether that is a trail break down or just the cost of buying parts twice when it becomes obvious that the particular parts really didn’t perform or work as intended. This lesson has cost me quite at bit of $$$$. :twocents::twocents:
StrizzyChris
New member
....and 40's! Mine are still available lol
highoctane
Caught the Bug
Question for you guys with the Dynatrac PR60 axles. For the front, kingpin or ball joint? Why? I'm told they make both. and for the rear, high pinion or low pinion? I know the high pinion is not as strong of a ring gear. I'll be going full float for sure.
GCM 2
New member
Front axle: I have run both king pin and ball joint front ends. Years ago I would have said king pin is the only way to go, but now the with the new Dynatrac pro steer ball joints, I think they are definitely better than king pin front ends.
Rear axle: High pinion all the way. Even with large horsepower, I say high pinion and the reason comes down to drive line angles. The high pinion set up keeps your drive line angles as straight as possible with the current trend of 3"-5" lifts. Think about where your driveline angle needs to be at 100% of the time on road and 70-90% on the trail, in a neutral position where the yoke ears, u-joints, and driveshafts are all in a straight line and are not getting in a bind unless seeing flex. When things are straight, things are smooth at highway speeds. Steep driveline angles are known for vibrations that wear out u-joints and even worse, can lead to transfer cases exploding.
StrizzyChris
New member
As greg stated, a couple companies make far superior balljoints compared to 10 years ago.
When you talk of high vs. Low pinion, the ring gear is no "weaker" than in low pinion, they are the exact same. The weakness comes form the pinion running on the coast side of the ring gear. Now this is a problem when you talk of a f250 tow rig pulling a heavy trailer,or placing tall thin 5.38's in a Dana 44 and running heavy 40" tires. You, and 99% of wheelers, really shouldn't see many failures by running the larger 60 r&p in high pinion.
highoctane
Caught the Bug
StrizzyChris said:
Yeah I knew why the high pinion was weaker. I've wheeled with people who have run Currie Rock Jock III axles in their JK on 40s and the high pinion has caused teeth to be stripped off when the R&P failed. Wasn't sure if it was a Currie thing, and if Dynatrac has come up with a way to be more reliable in the high pinion rear axle that the currie setup. Good to hear everyone has had good results with the ball joint 60.
