Rock lights wires

noroad

New member
So i wired all my lights up back to front on two circuits driver an passenger side with three ground an the two sides meeting just before the relay. But when i flipped the switch (i no it works) nothing not even one rock light turned on!
 
Hi noroad,

Did you test the setup before you mounted it?

Do you have a voltmeter?

Do you have a fuse inline to the battery?

Is the switch actually functional?

If you get 12v through the switch when ON then it's the rock light wiring such as reverse polarity or connection at first light.

What did you use to make connections? Butt connectors? scotchlok connectors?
 
No offense but, from the viewpoint of someone who has done nothing but wiring things for work my entire life, this simple circuit should not be a problem.Please see above post to solve the problem.
 
Why 3 grounds?

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Driver side is grounded to rear sway bar bolt, passenger side grounded to rear sway bar bolt, front is ground to a brake line bolt on the frame. Didnt want to run them all the way to the battery!
 
Did you test the setup before you mounted it? No there was to many!

Do you have a voltmeter? Will today!

Do you have a fuse inline to the battery? Yes its new !

Is the switch actually functional? Yess!

If you get 12v through the switch when ON then it's the rock light wiring such as reverse polarity or connection at first light.
Green/red are my positive and white/blue are ground!

What did you use to make connections? Butt connectors? scotchlok connectors?
Idk just small connectors!


Im going to look it all over again today i just hope is something small as none have light but will see!
 
Check your grounds to make sure they are making good contact. If you can find a factory grounds and use those. I found they are the best. You do not need to run your grounds to the battery just to a good frame ground.

Looking forward to the resolution.

R/
Will
 
Check your grounds to make sure they are making good contact. If you can find a factory grounds and use those. I found they are the best. You do not need to run your grounds to the battery just to a good frame ground.

Looking forward to the resolution.

R/
Will

But what are the chances that all three grounds are bad?? I mean not one light came on, wouldnt the well grounded ones have worked?
 
You really need to verify you have 12 volts to the lights first and foremost. I would disconnect switchleg from light and Test from there to your current ground terminations/bolts first. If you dont have it, scrape some paint off the frame. How'd you ground at the bolt points? Ring terminals?
 
You really need to verify you have 12 volts to the lights first and foremost. I would disconnect switchleg from light and Test from there to your current ground terminations/bolts first. If you dont have it, scrape some paint off the frame. How'd you ground at the bolt points? Ring terminals?

ya i used ring terminals!
 
Like Wes said, you need bare metal to get a good ground. Take either the volt meter or a spare led light- run the positive to the battery and run the negative to each of your existing grounds to test them.

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Are they inline or separate? My bet is your grounds. If you loosen the bolts the grounds are connected to and leave the switch on just touch it to other areas to see.
 
Are they inline or separate? My bet is your grounds. If you loosen the bolts the grounds are connected to and leave the switch on just touch it to other areas to see.

so the drivers side has 3 lights linked to a ring ground and same with the front and 4 or 5 lights on the drivers side all linked to the ground!. but that is a good idea to might try that with a set of jumper cables and ground it to the battery and just bring the other black side to each of my grounds!
 
The chances of all your ground points being bad is most likely your problem. Do like you just said ^ and run a jumper cable from battery negative to each of your grounds, turn the switch on. If you get lights, your ground was the problem.

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Do not connect the running lights black wire (+) . I did the same thing. I was blowing 15 amp fuses. it didn't seem right anyway. Check out your fuse box.

White LED to JEEP Black Ground on harness
Red LED to JEEP White w yellow stripe on harness
Black LED to JEEP White w violet stripe on harness

The back up lights connect to the backup lights get the polarity right.

If this doesn't work then it is your fuse. I left the passenger alone until I got the driver side right. Then I copied the wiring to the other side.

I also used double heat shrink tubing, soldered the connections and sealed them with silicone. My load resisters do not get hot. The only time they are working is when you use your blinker. I had my blinker on for 5 minutes and it was barley warm.


here.jpg

Hope this helps
 
Do not connect the running lights black wire (+) . I did the same thing. I was blowing 15 amp fuses. it didn't seem right anyway. Check out your fuse box.

White LED to JEEP Black Ground on harness
Red LED to JEEP White w yellow stripe on harness
Black LED to JEEP White w violet stripe on harness

The back up lights connect to the backup lights get the polarity right.

If this doesn't work then it is your fuse. I left the passenger alone until I got the driver side right. Then I copied the wiring to the other side.

I also used double heat shrink tubing, soldered the connections and sealed them with silicone. My load resisters do not get hot. The only time they are working is when you use your blinker. I had my blinker on for 5 minutes and it was barley warm.


View attachment 74881


Hope this helps

wow thats a lot i only have a + and negitive wire off the lights green is the + and white is the - heres a pic of the lights i simply cut them into two's and then made a chain out of them every couple of inches to for example 2 lights then 12inchs for wires then another 2 lights green to green white to white!
 

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His post was about hooking up rear led taillights.
Did you noroad, run a jumper to your grounds yet?

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OOPS I thought you were talking about this light from rock hard. Did you test each and every light? My process would of been testing each and every light individually, then marking the terminals with a + or - with a marker. line them all up and start making connections. I take it you have the specs on power draw. I would add a little bit more because you lose a little with every connection point. Connect the positive end then take a lead and start with the first one connected then the second until they don't light. Once that happens you may have found the break.
taillight.jpg
 
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