Rancho, Rock Krawler, Build my own....?

[mikefishes]

Well, first off I should say that 4" is WAY TOO MUCH lift for just 35" tires. I might recommend that you look at a 3" kit instead as it'll help you to stay in your $2k budget and/or leave you with some extra cash to spend for other parts. Something like the Rancho 3" Trail System will be a better fit for your needs and will serve you well for a long time. If/when you're ready to run 37's, you can always upgrade to a better system at that time. Even at 3" of lift, you really should keep in mind that you'll need to address your front drive shaft if you have an 07-11 with an automatic or a 2012-up regardless of transmission. If you have a 2-door, you will need to address your rear shaft as well. A good 1310 drive shaft like the kind Coast or JE Reel makes will set you back about $450 a piece.

Yeah I knew about the driveshaft upgrade needed. It is factored into the "other stuff budget". I appreciate the advice. It's all good stuff to consider. I am hoping to avoid doing a lift and then a lift again. I am replacing my tires in the next 30 days anyway (they are getting pretty close to needing to go anyway). Could I get away with 37s on a dana 30 if I didn't wheel it until I upgraded the axel? I realize the weak spot would be R&P?

 

[wayoflife]

Yeah I knew about the driveshaft upgrade needed. It is factored into the "other stuff budget". I appreciate the advice. It's all good stuff to consider. I am hoping to avoid doing a lift and then a lift again.

Well, you won't really need to replace the whole thing, more like swap a couple of things out and add to it. While I can understand your desire to think ahead, I think what's more important is to just do something. You might find that whatever you get now is all you'll ever need. And if not, I think you'll find it'll sustain you until you can improve upon it.

I am replacing my tires in the next 30 days anyway (they are getting pretty close to needing to go anyway). Could I get away with 37s on a dana 30 if I didn't wheel it until I upgraded the axel? I realize the weak spot would be R&P?

Actually, so long as you keep your R&P to a 4.88, it'll be plenty strong and will hold up just fine. At 5.13, the pinion will get pretty small and will be a weak point but, not as weak as your factory shafts. It wouldn't be my first choice but, so long as you install gussets and chromoly shafts with full circle clips and DON'T install a front locker, you should be able to run 37's okay.

 

[mikefishes]

Well, you won't really need to replace the whole thing, more like swap a couple of things out and add to it. While I can understand your desire to think ahead, I think what's more important is to just do something. You might find that whatever you get now is all you'll ever need. And if not, I think you'll find it'll sustain you until you can improve upon it.



Actually, so long as you keep your R&P to a 4.88, it'll be plenty strong and will hold up just fine. At 5.13, the pinion will get pretty small and will be a weak point but, not as weak as your factory shafts. It wouldn't be my first choice but, so long as you install gussets and chromoly shafts with full circle clips and DON'T install a front locker, you should be able to run 37's okay.

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate the time and thoughts! :beer:

 

[Skirmish]

I ran the 3" trail for awhile. Got a $500 rebate so for under a grand it was well worth it. I was able to build my current lift piece by piece off of it the. Sell the lift for almost what I paid.

The problems I had with the lift were squeaks and rear shocks. I spent hours multiple times with various forms of lube and still ten minutes into a trail it would squeak like and old bed. I got the adjustable Rancho shocks which are a nice ride but must be run tubes down. It became a problem with smashing rear tubes on departures or knocking the adjuster off. Rotating the tube 180 saved the knob but made it hard to adjust and I was still smashing the tubes coming down off rocks.

Other than that I think it is a great kit for the price and has a lot more components than most in its price range. I will caution to everyone, do not go for the drop Y exhaust get the new front drive shaft. It isn't worth saving a couple bucks to have the crossover pipe be lower than your skids.

 

[wayoflife]

The problems I had with the lift were squeaks and rear shocks. I spent hours multiple times with various forms of lube and still ten minutes into a trail it would squeak like and old bed. I got the adjustable Rancho shocks which are a nice ride but must be run tubes down. It became a problem with smashing rear tubes on departures or knocking the adjuster off. Rotating the tube 180 saved the knob but made it hard to adjust and I was still smashing the tubes coming down off rocks.

Yup, polyurethane bushings will squeak like a banshee and I'm not much of a fan of them. They work well but, you will need to expect that they will squeak. Regarding shocks, I personally would recommend the new RS7000 MT's over the 9000's. You don't really need adjustable shocks when you have a good mono tube to begin with.

Other than that I think it is a great kit for the price and has a lot more components than most in its price range. I will caution to everyone, do not go for the drop Y exhaust get the new front drive shaft. It isn't worth saving a couple bucks to have the crossover pipe be lower than your skids.

Agreed. A new front shaft is the way to go.

 

[Beyrgut]

I have the RK 3.5 Flex which is similar to the one you looking at but no upper control arms. It's only been on for a week but so far I have no complaints everything is solid. If you are going to run 35s and haven't trimmed your fenders or put flats on yet I would wait. I almost trimmed them before doing the lift but glad I waited as there would be too much space between the tires and fenders for my liking, if and when I ever go to 37s I'll address the fenders and no need to change the lift.

Nothing wrong with a Rancho kit either, they have been doing this for a long time and rarely if ever hear anything negative about them. Hell a lot of people run their shocks and love them.

 

[piginajeep]

What would be your kit of choice if the budget was $2000 or less? I am not including the price of shocks in there as I would consider them a separate decision.

I would go with the Evo enforcer with bilsteins or Rancho shocks along with a drag link flip.

Evo arms come with currie Johnny joints at both ends.

 

[paychex.308]

I would go with the Evo enforcer with bilsteins or Rancho shocks along with a drag link flip.

Evo arms come with currie Johnny joints at both ends.

x2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^

andrew -

 

[2007 JKU]

ha ha ha ha ha!!!:thinking: I love that no one (including me) caught that. Good eye!

Who knows its their press report .

 

[wayoflife]

I would go with the Evo enforcer with bilsteins or Rancho shocks along with a drag link flip.

Evo arms come with currie Johnny joints at both ends. 

This is a great setup and one that will set you up for upgrades well.

 

[mikefishes]

This is a great setup and one that will set you up for upgrades well.

Are there only two control arms included? I just looked at this and I am sold but wondering if I'll still be left with the squeaking control arms that are driving me batty.

 

[piginajeep]

Are there only two control arms included? I just looked at this and I am sold but wondering if I'll still be left with the squeaking control arms that are driving me batty.

Includes front lowers, reuse the factory on the rest.

If the factory arms are making noise chances are you have a blown bushing or something else is making noise

 

[mikefishes]

Includes front lowers, reuse the factory on the rest.

If the factory arms are making noise chances are you have a blown bushing or something else is making noise

pretty sure the bushings are shot. To steal someone else's turn of phrase on this thread, "it squeaks like an old bed". I take it it's the johnny joints everyone likes?

 

[wayoflife]

Are there only two control arms included? I just looked at this and I am sold but wondering if I'll still be left with the squeaking control arms that are driving me batty.

Are you sure that it's your control arms that are squeaking? Factory arms use bonded rubber bushings and, while they can make noise when they're blown, squeaking isn't typically what they sound like. I would have someone rock your Jeep to recreate the noise and then hold your control arms while they do that. If they really are squeaking, they will vibrate. My guess is that you have something else causing your noise.

pretty sure the bushings are shot. To steal someone else's turn of phrase on this thread, "it squeaks like an old bed". I take it it's the johnny joints everyone likes?

Johnny Joints are expensive but proven to be the best you can get.

 

[mikefishes]

Are you sure that it's your control arms that are squeaking? Factory arms use bonded rubber bushings and, while they can make noise when they're blown, squeaking isn't typically what they sound like. I would have someone rock your Jeep to recreate the noise and then hold your control arms while they do that. If they really are squeaking, they will vibrate. My guess is that you have something else causing your noise.



Johnny Joints are expensive but proven to be the best you can get.

Cool deal. Let me figure out the control arms and then I am going with the enforcer I think. I am wheeling with the same group that wheeled Rausch Creek a few weeks ago. That's where it really became noticeable. I'll get a few of those guys to help me noodle it out. Thanks again to everyone! :rock: I love all of the input, even if it does "vapor lock" me at times.

 

[hinrichs]

do the evo arms come with a good solution for keeping the jam nuts tight like they used to make and sell?

 

[piginajeep]

do the evo arms come with a good solution for keeping the jam nuts tight like they used to make and sell?

They don't have a jam nut. They have an adjustable collar(on jeep adjustment). Simply tighten the pinch bolt on the top of the control arm

 

[piginajeep]

Are you sure that it's your control arms that are squeaking? Factory arms use bonded rubber bushings and, while they can make noise when they're blown, squeaking isn't typically what they sound like. I would have someone rock your Jeep to recreate the noise and then hold your control arms while they do that. If they really are squeaking, they will vibrate. My guess is that you have something else causing your noise.



Johnny Joints are expensive but proven to be the best you can get.

As he mentioned on the bonded rubber it's unlikely. I'm running coil overs with factory arms and I have yet to blow a bushing.

 

[ewinterfeldt]

AEV suspension kit

I have been looking at a lift, I have been looking at the AEV JK DUALSPORT XT SUSPENSION 2.5" lift. I don't plan on going past 35" tires and my Jeep is a stock 08 Sahara other than buying some Rubicon wheels and tires off of Craigslist, any thoughts on this kit?

Thanks!