Sorry Eddie, I didn't refresh the post before I replied.
Sent from my VS980 4G using WAYALIFE mobile app
It's all good, I don't really need it, I just like having spares
Sorry Eddie, I didn't refresh the post before I replied.
Sent from my VS980 4G using WAYALIFE mobile app
I'm sure it works great on a tie rod but not sure how well it'll work with a drag link being that it inherently sits at an angle.Just ran across this
What was done to your rig this week?
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=373163#post373163
I'm more concerned about lateral axle centering than strength...
...I'm going to try to find a new 07-11' stocker per your recommendation. I'm going to have to find out if 52059982AE is dual clevite, or one spherical end. The fact that you guys are running them on 40s and in some cases racing on them takes the strength question right out of my mind. For the tie rod, do you think there's any difference at all in the Crown and a Mopar one? For all I know, Crown might make it for Mopar.
On the draglink, I already have a flip with my knuckles, and the trackbar bracket and other brackets are already in place. I'm thinking of piecing together a crown or Mopar draglink with a RHD end. I going to go out on a limb and guess that's what's included in the EVO kit, and since I already have the brackets and taper, does it make sense to buy the entire kit?
too bad you're not closer, we could compare setups closer. This is why I dislike making too many changes at once - the gremlin shake out, but I'm inclined to it's synergy parts related.
I say this because I've driven other Jeeps with the PR44 and PSC attached to stock tie rod and drag link aftermarket adjustable track bar and they steers like slicing through butter (for lack of a better description).
They have different lift kits but that shouldn't affect the steering.
I'm thinking the oversized Synergy TRE's are not suited for the Jeep.
Axle off the ground, draglink connected from pitman arm, it takes a lot of force to move the knuckles back and forth by hand from the draglink. More than I'd expect, most of my weight in fact, not that I'm an expert. I never really have any deadband in the system, otherwise I'd have replaced things or adjusted the gear by now. Thanks for the follow ups. Tonight I get to order components!
Axle off the ground, draglink connected from pitman arm, it takes a lot of force to move the knuckles back and forth by hand from the draglink. More than I'd expect, most of my weight in fact, not that I'm an expert. I never really have any deadband in the system, otherwise I'd have replaced things or adjusted the gear by now. Thanks for the follow ups. Tonight I get to order components!
How did you mount the ram ?
how much force at each wheel if you disconnect the drag link, tie rod and track bar? did the ball joints get over-torqued? I'd check each wheel and take the knuckle off to check the ball joint.
If I recall correctly, they only require 10-15 foot lbs to move them. When I installed mine on the D44, my neighbor (who I found out worked for GM assembly!) had what looked like a fishing scale that he attached to the knuckle and pulled on it to measure the force.
it's mounted to the axle using the PSC mount and the tie rod with a collar mount.
I mean positioning. From how i understand it. The axle mount must position the ram directly over and parallel to the tie rod.
If you need to order up a new factory track bar, try to get one that is a 2007-10 as they will have clevite bushings on both ends. The newer ones, 2011-up has a clevite on the axle end and a spherical joint on the frame end. This is a nice setup but, they don't seem to last as long. If you're concerned about strength or flex, I can assure you that it seems to be more than enough for Moby with his 40" tires, ProRock 60 and 14" of vertical travel that the EVO DTD provides. They are also what EVO 1 runs and it competes in Ultra 4.
That is crazy you have experienced no breaks or bends with the stock front track bar. I bent mine really bad running Holy Cross on 35's! Only had 12,000 miles on it! EDIT: Nevermind, I forgot I had swapped the stock one out for a Teraflex and that's what bent.
In my case, you can rock the knuckles back and forth easily when it's just the ball joints. If I remove the tie rod, draglink, and RCV's (boot drag), it's easy to rotate, even with the dynatrac ball joints. I an try this week with the RCVs, but no linkages and get back to you. I'll try to bring a fish scale home when I do it.