Nitto's Mud or Trail advice ??

Rock-itman

Rock-itman

New member
I have an AEV 4.5" rs lift on my 2012 JKUR (AUTO) I am thinking of pulling my bfg km2's and trying the Nitto tires . My question is if i decide to try the Mud grappler tire it only comes in a 37x13.50x17 for approx 380 $ . Then my other choice being the Trail grappler which is 37x12.50r x17 ltd for approx 396 $ . Price wise is not enough diff to worry about , id really like to try the Mud grapplers due to me living on the East Coast . Meaning the obvious more mud and rain w/ snow mix as im actually located north in NH . So with all that being said id really like to hear the pro's & con's of both , which maybe better for my area and my type of wheeling , With some runs to off road parks . any input is appreciated . My other main concern is the RUB issue , will i clear my stock fenders with the 13.50 width im very concerned w/ stuff and rub !! :eek: thanx in advance , if i have to change my flares ,so be it.
I like the flats anyway . As of today mopar is now selling them in their inventory under part # BFW10918 . My close parts rep send me the email today about the release , i believe theese flats to be bushwacker now being sold w/ a mopar part # :thinking:
 
WOL is running both, so I'm sure he will have best insights. But I do have the Trails and specifically went with them vs toyos because nittos are 12.5 vs 13.5. And I wanted to avoid rubbing. Running coilovers and bushwhacker flares. No rubbing even at full stuff. I heard the mud grapplers are loud on the road.
 
I can't find the write up that gave the back spacing needed for 13.5 tires sorry.

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Tackerdown said:
Are you getting hit by the blizzard? Better get the soon.

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Got about 24" !!! If i use AEV pintlers im prob going to have to use spacers then ? Unless i find the rt backspacing if i go w/ the 13.50 thanx again !!! Stuff & Rub ( NICE ) to a point you go STRIZZY :clap2:
 
Tackerdown said:
I can't find the write up that gave the back spacing needed for 13.5 tires sorry.

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At 3.5 " you should clear just about anything including if you have coilovers setup. If no coilovers, probably 3.75.
I ran the nittos w/12.5 width on wheels w/4.75 and no coilovers and had rubbing in rear at full flex and a little in front on lower control arm at full turn.
 
As mentioned, I run both and can tell you that the Mud Grapplers are far superior on the trail. Their biggest downside is the noise they make on pavement. If you can deal with that, they are what I would go with. 3.5" of back spacing should get you clearing them at a full turn but you may need to run trimmed or flat fenders or more lift to clear them at a full flex.
 
MTG said:
Do you think this is a function of the tread or the extra 1" width? Or both?
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The tread and the massive shoulder lugs. The large voids and blocky lugs allow them to grab on to cracks and undulations on rocks like fingers and they'll give you superior traction at a crawl. In the mud or snow, the large voids do a much better job of clearing and that's what'll give you continued traction more than anything. In tight spaces or notches, the massive shoulder lugs alone will grab onto whatever they can and keep you off your side and moving forward. Being wider does have its benefits too and mainly in the fact that you have more surface area. Where they do have a downside to Trail Grapplers is in high speed racing across the desert. The design of the Trail Grapplers will do a better job of keeping you straight and negotiating fast turns.
 
Hellfire said:
What is the mileage difference between the mud & trail grabbler?
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If you're asking about how long they last, the rubber compound is similar if not the same and you would get about the same out of them. By the looks of what I have on mine, I would say about 40,000 miles of good useable rubber.
 
I was looking into Nitto 37" 13 1/2 R17's or or toyos 37"..

got a 6" lift with fox gas filled shocks on 13 jeep unlimited with custom fabbed front and rear d44 RCV axles. The compaly will warrent upto 40" tires should i be sticking with 37" or 40" would do? I am just wondering if 40" are too big for around 300hp penstar to push around..

not trying to steal the thread but would love to know some info about choosing the right tire size..
 
kimer82 said:
I was looking into Nitto 37" 13 1/2 R17's or or toyos 37"..

got a 6" lift with fox gas filled shocks on 13 jeep unlimited with custom fabbed front and rear d44 RCV axles. The compaly will warrent upto 40" tires should i be sticking with 37" or 40" would do? I am just wondering if 40" are too big for around 300hp penstar to push around..

not trying to steal the thread but would love to know some info about choosing the right tire size..
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The engine can push the 40s with the right gears, the problem will likely be your axles.
 
front is getting built with 5:13, arb lockers, RCV Axles, and some beefed up casing ATM.. It has not been built yet since i am still debating on tire sizes..
Rear is about the same with gears and lockers and some beefed up parts.

Someone here please make my mind so i can get this brainfart out and do something active
 
kimer82 said:
front is getting built with 5:13, arb lockers, RCV Axles, and some beefed up casing ATM.. It has not been built yet since i am still debating on tire sizes..
Rear is about the same with gears and lockers and some beefed up parts.

Someone here please make my mind so i can get this brainfart out and do something active
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I'm running 5.13 with 37s in my 2012. It drives great! I think 40s would be sluggish at best and you wouldn't want to go to 5.38 in a D44. That said, stick with 37s and be good. Go with 40s and you'll probably be worried when you take it out to wheel.
 
Honestly, I have tried running 40's on a Dana 44 and couldn't get it to last. Hell, I couldn't even get a built up Dana 44 front axle to last long with 37's but, maybe I just suck at wheeling. If it were me, I'd be reluctant to run 40's with anything less than a Pro Rock 60. You can beef up a 44 housing all you want and you can even run fancy CV joint shafts but, you simply cannot make your R&P or thin shafts any stronger than they are and, that's where you will see your breaks.
 
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