Need advice in regards to Synergy Draglink & Tie rod as well as DIY Alignment

M

MrNoodles

New member
I am a new Jeep JL Owner, never owned a Jeep in the past.
Shortly after taking delivery i noticed the steering wander issue, so i had the TSB done at 600 Miles, and felt no difference if not worst.

So i have decided to "Attempt" to address this concern myself, as i dont feel comfortable driving it the way it is.
I have got Synergy draglink & tie rods, Yeti adjustable front track bar and Mopar 2" lift lower control arm being put on the vehicle.

Went with Synergy due to Eddies videos on youtube, also read about the commotion with the Yeti brand as well.

I have never worked with the type of suspensions that is on the Jeep. So all these components are news to me.
So far i have got the Draglink and Tie rod semi installed on the vehicle. Measured the old and attempt to get the Syn as close to the old measurement as i can.
Made both end of the tie rod as equal out as i can, so the thread wouldnt be more threaded out than the other side.
Now when i undid my original draglink i did not secure my steering wheel, and the pitman arm moved all the way to passenger side when i undid the 42mm nut.

Question 1 : How far should i move the pitman arm back towards the driver side to know that was the center point of my steering wheel? (Do i just push the pitman arm as far back as needed until the other end fells into the knuckle? Ensuring my steering wheel is pointing straight ahead in the process?)

Question 2 : I bought the Low Range Off Road Toe Adjustment Plates, I read from somewhere that the JL should be 1/8" toed in.
(Am i looking for 1/8" toed in from front using the # i measured from the back of the front axle using the LROR Tool?"

Meaning if the back side is measuring at 61 4/8", i need to get the front side to measure at 61 3/8"?

I apologize in advance if these are coming off as a stupid questions. I just prefer to learn how all of this work together VS paying someone who doesn't give a rats ass about other peoples vehicle. (Dealership / Shops)
 
MrNoodles said:
I am a new Jeep JL Owner, never owned a Jeep in the past.
Shortly after taking delivery i noticed the steering wander issue, so i had the TSB done at 600 Miles, and felt no difference if not worst.

So i have decided to "Attempt" to address this concern myself, as i dont feel comfortable driving it the way it is.
I have got Synergy draglink & tie rods, Yeti adjustable front track bar and Mopar 2" lift lower control arm being put on the vehicle.

Went with Synergy due to Eddies videos on youtube, also read about the commotion with the Yeti brand as well.

I have never worked with the type of suspensions that is on the Jeep. So all these components are news to me.
So far i have got the Draglink and Tie rod semi installed on the vehicle. Measured the old and attempt to get the Syn as close to the old measurement as i can.
Made both end of the tie rod as equal out as i can, so the thread wouldnt be more threaded out than the other side.
Now when i undid my original draglink i did not secure my steering wheel, and the pitman arm moved all the way to passenger side when i undid the 42mm nut.

Question 1 : How far should i move the pitman arm back towards the driver side to know that was the center point of my steering wheel? (Do i just push the pitman arm as far back as needed until the other end fells into the knuckle? Ensuring my steering wheel is pointing straight ahead in the process?)

Question 2 : I bought the Low Range Off Road Toe Adjustment Plates, I read from somewhere that the JL should be 1/8" toed in.
(Am i looking for 1/8" toed in from front using the # i measured from the back of the front axle using the LROR Tool?"

Meaning if the back side is measuring at 61 4/8", i need to get the front side to measure at 61 3/8"?

I apologize in advance if these are coming off as a stupid questions. I just prefer to learn how all of this work together VS paying someone who doesn't give a rats ass about other peoples vehicle. (Dealership / Shops)
Click to expand...

This link will help you a lot. https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/56571-WRITE-UP-Basic-DIY-Jeep-JL-Wrangler-FRONT-END-ALIGNMENT

As far as the pitman arm, if your oem drag link and your new drag link are pretty much the same length as each other, yes then, just push the pitman arm back to about where it needs to be so that both drag link ends can be fastened. Once you're done with the entire process, you will likely have to drive the vehicle to really find out if your steering wheel is straight or not.
 
WJCO said:
This link will help you a lot. https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/56571-WRITE-UP-Basic-DIY-Jeep-JL-Wrangler-FRONT-END-ALIGNMENT

As far as the pitman arm, if your oem drag link and your new drag link are pretty much the same length as each other, yes then, just push the pitman arm back to about where it needs to be so that both drag link ends can be fastened. Once you're done with the entire process, you will likely have to drive the vehicle to really find out if your steering wheel is straight or not.
Click to expand...

^^THIS^^
Also...make sure you TORQUE them correctly!!! Than check torque after 100 or so miles. Than check every 1000 miles. Shit loosens up. My Synergy track bar bolt loosened up after couple thousand miles and slotted the hole.:eek:
I periodically spray all threads and bolts with WD40 every once in a while to help prevent the rust.
 
I just installed both the drag link and tie rod on my JT. Made a huge difference. Also alignment using the write ups on this site. You will not be disappointed. My Jeep drives great now. Before install it was all over the road and partly because castor was half of what it should be. Follow the write up and you will do great.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Lojo said:
I just installed both the drag link and tie rod on my JT. Made a huge difference. Also alignment using the write ups on this site. You will not be disappointed. My Jeep drives great now. Before install it was all over the road and partly because castor was half of what it should be. Follow the write up and you will do great.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Castor was 1/2 off? Did you lift 6"? Castor isn't adjustable and shouldn't change unless you lift Jeep without lengthening lower control arms. Mistype?
 
BlueRubicon said:
Castor was 1/2 off? Did you lift 6"? Castor isn't adjustable and shouldn't change unless you lift Jeep without lengthening lower control arms. Mistype?
Click to expand...

It was the place that installed my 2.5 lift. Didn’t do anything but set to specified lengths on control arms which put me at 2.7 degrees. No good


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Vehicle is currently on jack stands under the axle without the 2 front wheels

On the Castle nut that connects the drag link to pitman arm
Whenever I try to tighten it with just a wrench it would move the pitman arm towards the pass side
Making it impossible to torque it to 55 FT Lb

Will I damage anything if I put the pass side wheel back on and take the vehicle off the jack stand to tighten the castle nut? That way the pitman arm won’t move when tightening?

I swear in Eddies video he was able to tighten the castle nut without the pitman arm moving 🤦*♂️
 
MrNoodles said:
Vehicle is currently on jack stands under the axle without the 2 front wheels

On the Castle nut that connects the drag link to pitman arm
Whenever I try to tighten it with just a wrench it would move the pitman arm towards the pass side
Making it impossible to torque it to 55 FT Lb

Will I damage anything if I put the pass side wheel back on and take the vehicle off the jack stand to tighten the castle nut? That way the pitman arm won’t move when tightening?

I swear in Eddies video he was able to tighten the castle nut without the pitman arm moving [emoji1751]*[emoji3603]
Click to expand...
Do you have a tie strap on your steering wheel to keep it from moving?

Sent from my SM-N975U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I am waiting on a replacement castle nut from Synergy.
I somehow manage to damage the thread on the castle nut that secures the drag link side to the pitman arm.
I tighten it to 55 Ft lb, and the hole for the cotter pin was not lining up, and no matter how much more i tighten i still wasnt able to get it lined up.

New castle nut is arriving this Saturday, i aslo bought a crow foot 21mm to use it to tighten the castle nut with a torque wrench,
Hopefully i will be able to finish this up and drive it this weekend.
 
MrNoodles said:
I am waiting on a replacement castle nut from Synergy.
I somehow manage to damage the thread on the castle nut that secures the drag link side to the pitman arm.
I tighten it to 55 Ft lb, and the hole for the cotter pin was not lining up, and no matter how much more i tighten i still wasnt able to get it lined up.

New castle nut is arriving this Saturday, i aslo bought a crow foot 21mm to use it to tighten the castle nut with a torque wrench,
Hopefully i will be able to finish this up and drive it this weekend.
Click to expand...

Was the stud spinning as you turned the nut? If so, you need to add pressure to the stud to seat it in the knuckle so it stops spinning or use an Allen wrench on the top of the stud as well.
 
MericaMade said:
Was the stud spinning as you turned the nut? If so, you need to add pressure to the stud to seat it in the knuckle so it stops spinning or use an Allen wrench on the top of the stud as well.
Click to expand...

Do This...or use an Allen wrench on the top of the stud as well
 
Don’t get discouraged. We’ve all been there. You fight it out once or twice & then it’s a breeze. You can use a ratchet strap from one side of the frame to the opposite axle side to pull shit back together & hold it. Before that though, center your steering wheel & strap it to the seat rails so it stops moving. This way the wheel is stationary & you can get shit bolted back up. Be careful, take your time. If you don’t have a huge torque wrench that can go upwards of 150 ft/lbs go get one now. You’re gonna need it. Good luck & keep us posted!!
 
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