Moving from 35's to 37's

the_debtenator said:
How am I giving bad advice by saying sleeves help!!? Yes they help! Please tell me how in the world I'm giving bad advice? I'm reccomend sleeves that cost under 200$ and install in less than 2 hours, that's a lot more reasonable for most people, opposed to reccomending them to save up for a 5k axle


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They don't, you're missing the point...
A sleeved housing will still bend, and it will still snap. Especially with a hammer in sleeve - these are just a gimmick that really do nothing. It's the outside diameter that is the main source of strength for any tube. That is why a 3.0x.25 is stronger than a 2.5x.5 tube.
Even if it is a cheap upgrade, it's one of no benefit and better used towards a different housing when the time comes.
 
As mentioned, sleeves are a waste of time and money. Over the last 10 years, I have personally seen my fair share of axle housings bend AND break and in spite of being sleeved. Of course, I'm just a mall crawler who would never wheel with others so ya'll can take what I have seen for what it's worth.
 
JKDream said:
They don't, you're missing the point...
A sleeved housing will still bend, and it will still snapEspecially with a hammer in sleeve - these are just a gimmick that really do nothing. It's the outside diameter that is the main source of strength for any tube. That is why a 3.0x.25 is stronger than a 2.5x.5 tube.
Even if it is a cheap upgrade, it's one of no benefit and better used towards a different housing when the time comes.
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They do though. Go get 2 straws, see how easy one bends, cut a slit in the second and "sleeve" it. You will feel a small difference. It's crazy to say that adding wall thickness doesn't help strength.. and I disagree about that hammer in sleeves, they actually provide more contact area than weld in ones do, the weld sleeves rely on the rosette weld areas for contact. And yes like you said a thicker diameter tubing is going to be strong than a thinner one with thicker walls. However that diameter only helps in a few different structural ways, not with impact. Take a look at the jk stock driveshafts, thin and big, but strong for torque, but will crush on a rock. Now look at a JE reel or Adams shaft, thinner diameter thicker wall.


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Big K said:
I'm going to step up for 35's to 37's on my 2013 JKU Rubicon my questions are. Truss or sleeve the front axle and 4:88 or 5:13 gears.
It's my daily driver. Any input would be helpful


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Gearing would depend a bit on the terrain you're daily driving in. If you're very hilly or mountainous you might want to do 5.13s. If it's all flat 4.88s will work. That transmission will allow both as far as crawl ratio and hwy RPMs goes. Also depends on what you want from it when you're wheeling. If you like at least one pretty low gear for crawling or you want to be a bit snappier around town and up hills go with 5.13. If you don't wheel that much and drive it around on flat ground most of the time go 4.88.

That stock 44 also comes frown to how much and what type of wheedling you do. If you wheel quite often, both crawl and run fast off road you'll likely wind up swapping it out for a PR44 and maybe even add steering assist. If you drive around on the road and don't wheel often you could get away with nothing up there for quite some time. Truss might be a good compromise since bent housing is the primary issue with the stock housing. That and even sleeping won't however address drive train stress (carrier, Drive shaft, R&P) if you wheel pretty hard.

If it were me, and I've been there, I'd go 5.13 and save up for PR44 up front.


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the_debtenator said:
Take a look at the jk stock driveshafts, thin and big, but strong for torque, but will crush on a rock. Now look at a JE reel or Adams shaft, thinner diameter thicker wall.
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Oh yeah, factory drive shafts are way strong when it comes to torque.

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Clearly, you're going to believe what you want but the amount of added strength that sleeves provide is minuscule at best and not worth the time and money. I should note, this is coming from a guy who very early one thought they were a great idea and even ran them on my JK's in the past. Better to just play with what you've got, save your money until you need or can afford a real upgrade. Of course, that's just me.
 
the_debtenator said:
They do though. Go get 2 straws, see how easy one bends, cut a slit in the second and "sleeve" it. You will feel a small difference. It's crazy to say that adding wall thickness doesn't help strength.. and I disagree about that hammer in sleeves, they actually provide more contact area than weld in ones do, the weld sleeves rely on the rosette weld areas for contact. And yes like you said a thicker diameter tubing is going to be strong than a thinner one with thicker walls. However that diameter only helps in a few different structural ways, not with impact. Take a look at the jk stock driveshafts, thin and big, but strong for torque, but will crush on a rock. Now look at a JE reel or Adams shaft, thinner diameter thicker wall.


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It DOESN'T MATTER if the sleeve strengthens the tube or not. That's not the point here. Sleeve or not, the tube CAN still bend at the pumpkin just as easy. With your 2 straw method, I guarantee if you put the end of that straw assembly in your butthole and pulled down on it, it would still bend at your butthole, and I'm not even an engineer. And the outer OEM axle tube still can fracture or break with or without a sleeve. It has happened and does happen.

The point most members here are making is that spending the money is un-necessary.
 
WJCO said:
With your 2 straw method, I guarantee if you put the end of that straw assembly in your butthole and pulled down on it, it would still bend at your butthole, and I'm not even an engineer.
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I bet she would like that
 
WJCO said:
It DOESN'T MATTER if the sleeve strengthens the tube or not. That's not the point here. Sleeve or not, the tube CAN still bend at the pumpkin just as easy. With your 2 straw method, I guarantee if you put the end of that straw assembly in your butthole and pulled down on it, it would still bend at your butthole, and I'm not even an engineer. And the outer OEM axle tube still can fracture or break with or without a sleeve. It has happened and does happen.

The point most members here are making is that spending the money is un-necessary.
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God damn you have me rolling lately!


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Big K said:
I'm going to step up for 35's to 37's on my 2013 JKU Rubicon my questions are. Truss or sleeve the front axle and 4:88 or 5:13 gears.
It's my daily driver. Any input would be helpful


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I did the same thing with my 2010 but if I were to do the same on my 2015 I'd still only go 4.88, IMO 5.13 pinion is to small even for a D44 and I'd rather have a breaking point outside of the pumpkin not in it.

aside from gussets, the expense to truss and sleeve even a D44 wouldn't be worth it. The "true" spend I've seen when friends have gone the truss and sleeve route they could've saved a bit more and bought a PR44 - not a fully loaded PR44 but one that would better than where they started.

You have a Rubicon, you could buy a PR44 housing and transfer all your Rubicon parts into it, sell the D44 housing to recoup some of your spend. then as budget allows upgrade the internals as needed.

Something else to consider when going to 37's is your steering. While something like a ram assist isn't necessary as a daily driver, on the trail it makes life a lot easier and reduces the risk of breaking a sector shaft.

PSC just announced their new big bore 42mm steering box made for 37's so you could opt for than instead of ram assist.

And brakes, you'll want to upgrade your brakes cause nothing puckers like having to stop 37's in a hurry and those 37's keep you rolling lol

New wheels or spacers depending on what you currently have - you'll want to make sure you're not catching a brake line or rubbing on something each time you turn or are articulated on the trail.

37's are fun to have but if you wheel it, plan for the potential additional costs. If it's just for DD then a lot of the concerns go away - my :twocents:
 
Sheaffadelic said:
i swear we cant go a week without someone thinking sleeves are D30 miracle makers :naw:
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Oh, I was corrected. The OP has a Rubicon. Still the same tubes though. I must have been confused, because there is another thread going, right now, where someone is recommending sleeves in a 30.


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