Motor swap time..... unfortunately lol

Wethy

Member
Well the time has come to swap the motor in my 14 Jk. It's lived a hard life that's for sure. Made it to 415,000 KM. Its down on compression and burns oil like you wouldnt believe. Original clutch, too.

That being said I've swapped motors before but usually on fwd cars. So i do have a couple questions.

Can i separate the transmission and leave it in place and pull the block out or is the recommended process to pull the block and transmission together?

Im also replacing the steering box at the aame time and the power steering pump as that doesnt come on the donor motor. Ia there limiter on the box or do i need to worry about rhe orientation on the output shaft?

Thanks in advance.
 
Well the time has come to swap the motor in my 14 Jk. It's lived a hard life that's for sure. Made it to 415,000 KM. Its down on compression and burns oil like you wouldnt believe. Original clutch, too.

That being said I've swapped motors before but usually on fwd cars. So i do have a couple questions.

Can i separate the transmission and leave it in place and pull the block out or is the recommended process to pull the block and transmission together?

Im also replacing the steering box at the aame time and the power steering pump as that doesnt come on the donor motor. Ia there limiter on the box or do i need to worry about rhe orientation on the output shaft?

Thanks in advance.

You can leave the trans if you want. You’ll pull it with the torque converter but can’t install the new motor with the torque converter installed. The biggest bitch is lining up the motor when you install it back in. I pulled the motor mounts off and then reinstalled them when the motor was in place. The top two trans bolts will be fun also.




Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You can leave the trans if you want. You’ll pull it with the torque converter but can’t install the new motor with the torque converter installed. The biggest bitch is lining up the motor when you install it back in. I pulled the motor mounts off and then reinstalled them when the motor was in place. The top two trans bolts will be fun also.




Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
I vaguely remember reading about the swap you did thats actually why i asked about leaving the trans mounted. I was wondering about the top two bolts. Mine is a manual though so wluld the pressure plate and flywheel cause the same issue as the torque converter.... i know the torque converters usually take up more room than a clutch disc.

And that makes sense about the motor mounts. Ill keep that in mind.
 
Strap the seat belt through the steering wheel centered so you don’t accidentally rotate and wreck the clock spring. Should be far easier than pulling a fwd, more room to play. Just pay extra care to not snag any wire or hoses pulling it out and you’ll be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
You can pull the motor away from the trans easily. Also do your best to remove the starter and get the converter bolts off before yanking it. Better to leave the converter on the trans if you can so you don’t lose fluid and make a bigger mess then you will already be making.
 
You can pull the motor away from the trans easily. Also do your best to remove the starter and get the converter bolts off before yanking it. Better to leave the converter on the trans if you can so you don’t lose fluid and make a bigger mess then you will already be making.
Thanks for the tip on the starter and im not worried about fluids. Lol they're all getting changed anyways. You mean the torque converter? Its stick so it wouldn't have one just the clutch plate and fly wheel. Unless there is something else im missing.
 
Thanks for the tip on the starter and im not worried about fluids. Lol they're all getting changed anyways. You mean the torque converter? Its stick so it wouldn't have one just the clutch plate and fly wheel. Unless there is something else im missing.

Yes I was talking about the torque converter Was unaware it was a stick shift tho. In that case no worries about fluid loss. Just remove the starter and the rest will fall apart once the trans is disconnected
 
Honestly I think it would be easier to pull engine and trans together. Just my 2 cents. Look up some of the hemi swap videos and tutorials on line that detail pulling the engine/trans out. Lot’s of good tips and tricks here and there.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
 
Honestly I think it would be easier to pull engine and trans together. Just my 2 cents. Look up some of the hemi swap videos and tutorials on line that detail pulling the engine/trans out. Lot’s of good tips and tricks here and there.


Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
I was thinking about that process too but that requires taking off the drive shafts, shift linkages, and dropping the transfer case. If you pop the front fenders it should be fairly easy to unbolt the trans in the jeep.

This is a V8 but there is still room to reach those top trans bolts.
2070788534.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I was thinking about that process too but that requires taking off the drive shafts, shift linkages, and dropping the transfer case. If you pop the front fenders it should be fairly easy to unbolt the trans in the jeep.

This is a V8 but there is still room to reach those top trans bolts.
View attachment 355336

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using WAYALIFE mobile app

True. It’s a big job no matter what. If you have a lift (or a mini excavator) just pull the body off. Then it’s easy peasy. You can reach everything!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Top Bottom