Chris after turning wrenches on EVO1 and EVOTJ, I have decided to follow in their lead and switch my lug nuts out for the ones Mel uses on the race cars. Both rigs are running over the counter style, factory right hand 1/2" threads, but they are extra long, like 2.25" long. Really easy to access quickly, dont have to worry about scuffing up powder coating or using thin walled sockets. Just make sure if you switch to the longer ones you continue to use the tapered style, usually its a 60 degree seat that is the industry standard, the flat seat or any other odd anlged taper could be an issue.
Chris after turning wrenches on EVO1 and EVOTJ, I have decided to follow in their lead and switch my lug nuts out for the ones Mel uses on the race cars. Both rigs are running over the counter style, factory right hand 1/2" threads, but they are extra long, like 2.25" long. Really easy to access quickly, dont have to worry about scuffing up powder coating or using thin walled sockets. Just make sure if you switch to the longer ones you continue to use the tapered style, usually its a 60 degree seat that is the industry standard, the flat seat or any other odd anlged taper could be an issue.
Howdy
What lug nuts are you running?
Thx
Chris after turning wrenches on EVO1 and EVOTJ, I have decided to follow in their lead and switch my lug nuts out for the ones Mel uses on the race cars. Both rigs are running over the counter style, factory right hand 1/2" threads, but they are extra long, like 2.25" long. Really easy to access quickly, dont have to worry about scuffing up powder coating or using thin walled sockets. Just make sure if you switch to the longer ones you continue to use the tapered style, usually its a 60 degree seat that is the industry standard, the flat seat or any other odd anlged taper could be an issue.
Well damn, that's a great idea. Guess I need to pick up some new nuts :crazyeyes:![]()
My factory nuts seem to work just fine. I don't see the need for some fancy after market nuts when the nuts I've had from the beginning work just fine. But hey, what do I know?
OP: whatever nuts you pick...just make sure they are torqued right. Nobody needs a repeat of Moab 2012. :doh:
just make sure they are torqued right.
My factory nuts seem to work just fine. I don't see the need for some fancy after market nuts when the nuts I've had from the beginning work just fine. But hey, what do I know?
OP: whatever nuts you pick...just make sure they are torqued right. Nobody needs a repeat of Moab 2012. :doh:
My factory nuts seem to work just fine. I don't see the need for some fancy after market nuts when the nuts I've had from the beginning work just fine. But hey, what do I know?
OP: whatever nuts you pick...just make sure they are torqued right. Nobody needs a repeat of Moab 2012. :doh:[/yfQUOTE]
I saw all this coming but I was still man enough to post it.Ps I still fell shame:gaah:
Driver driver GAS!
WAYALIFE mobile app
Mine had the stainless cladding damaged -- Some of the cladding was ready to split and come off. A previous owner issue, maybe from a worn/cheap impact socket. :idontknow:
Sure, but then it takes an 11/16 socket & breaker bar (instead the 3/4) and our usual is to leave the tools at home when we are nearby. Wifey is a country gal, and I'd be in deep poop if she had to change a tire with a lug wrench that didn't fit. :doh:I'm assuming you are referring to the cosmetic sleeves that the nuts are wrapped in. You can just remove them as they are not really needed but, your nuts will look plain jane.
Well damn, that's a great idea. Guess I need to pick up some new nuts :crazyeyes:![]()