Lower ball joint torque

Can anyone confirm if the attached TSB PDF is accurate, it says lower ball joins are now supposed to be 59 ft lbs plus advanced to the next cotter pin slot? It doesn't says aluminum or iron knuckles though is this for both? I have a clicking while turning, which I assume is this.
 

Attachments

  • SB 02-004-21 Lower Ball Joint.pdf
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Can anyone confirm if the attached TSB PDF is accurate, it says lower ball joins are now supposed to be 59 ft lbs plus advanced to the next cotter pin slot? It doesn't says aluminum or iron knuckles though is this for both? I have a clicking while turning, which I assume is this.
if your JL or JT was built with the dates specified
 
How would it not apply to builds after those dates? This TSB is likely just for ones that might have been wrong from the factory, the torque spec should be all-encompassing though.
I should have said those dates or after as specified in the TSB, but it also indicates this is a repair if "There is a click noise at low speeds while turning from the front of the vehicle; A sticking feeling through steering wheel while driving and/or turning at low speeds."

A similar TSB was also released 08/23/2024 for 2020-2025 JT's and 2018-2024 Wrangler but is does not specify the torque, it instructs this :
"Torque lower ball joint to Torque Specifications in Service Library Refer to Service Library; 02 - Front Suspension / Front / Technical Specifications TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS"
The way I read it, if you hear it click at low speed, tighten the lower ball joint and like to the TSB value on the TSB you shared.

The default lower is 35 lb-ft after the initial 15 lb-ft

Uppers are 55 lb-ft, interesting they are going higher with the lowers
 
Can anyone confirm if the attached TSB PDF is accurate, it says lower ball joins are now supposed to be 59 ft lbs plus advanced to the next cotter pin slot? It doesn't says aluminum or iron knuckles though is this for both? I have a clicking while turning, which I assume is this.
That is legit. You have to follow the sequence if installing new ones, 15ftlbs initial lower, then 59ftlbs upper, then 59ftlbs lower. Turn castle to the next position after reaching torque in order allow inserting the cotter pins. This is especially true for the POS aluminum knuckles, and you’ll likely need to retorque them if you do any wheeling at all.
 
That is legit. You have to follow the sequence if installing new ones, 15ftlbs initial lower, then 59ftlbs upper, then 59ftlbs lower. Turn castle to the next position after reaching torque in order allow inserting the cotter pins. This is especially true for the POS aluminum knuckles, and you’ll likely need to retorque them if you do any wheeling at all.
I was just reading it is for the aluminum knuckles, not cast iron
 
Can anyone confirm if the attached TSB PDF is accurate, it says lower ball joins are now supposed to be 59 ft lbs plus advanced to the next cotter pin slot? It doesn't says aluminum or iron knuckles though is this for both? I have a clicking while turning, which I assume is this.
aluminum knuckles and it would apply to your clicking
 
I have this issue too. I replaced the drag link inner and outer sockets because the bushing was moving around. That wasn't the problem! After some deep research I found its the ball joints are not torqued correctly. I'll be doing that next but its just too damn cold outside!
 
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