Lift install...

C

cloudpump

New member
Doing my first lift install this weekend as long as the weather is somewhat decent. I've watched all the videos, read all the threads, and I think I have all of the tools...
It says it takes 4 hours, so I planned on 16 hours.
I have loctite, red and blue, antisieze, and penetrating oil.
It's all pretty straight forward, right? Not overly difficult? Just take my time? Thinking of grabbing some crows feet.
Any tips? Also throwing in new drag link and tie rod.
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
cloudpump said:
Doing my first lift install this weekend as long as the weather is somewhat decent. I've watched all the videos, read all the threads, and I think I have all of the tools...
It says it takes 4 hours, so I planned on 16 hours.
I have loctite, red and blue, antisieze, and penetrating oil.
It's all pretty straight forward, right? Not overly difficult? Just take my time? Thinking of grabbing some crows feet.
Any tips? Also throwing in new drag link and tie rod.
Click to expand...
Jack up the jeep as high as possible and use tall jack stands on the frame. The more you can lower the axle, the easier it is to get the new coils in.
 
Upvote 0
wayoflife said:
How tall of a lift and all the components you're planning on installing will make a bit of a difference in terms of difficulty. Knowing more about this will help to provide better advice. WJCO's comment about tall jack stands is spot on.
Click to expand...
Good point. Rock Krawler 2.5 Adventure lift with adjustable upper and lower control arms for the front.
RPM tie rod and drag link.
 
Upvote 0
cloudpump said:
Good point. Rock Krawler 2.5 Adventure lift with adjustable upper and lower control arms for the front.
RPM tie rod and drag link.
Click to expand...
Okay, that helps and I would say that the hardest part of the lift install will be getting the control arm torqued to spec. The values are really high and it can be difficult to get there one handed as you'll need to hold a wrench on the other side too. Bigger the torque wrench the more leverage you'll have and this will make it easier. Having a big crescent wrench and one that can reach the ground can help too as that will allow you to focus your efforts on just the torque wrench.

Also, even though you'll only be replacing the front control arms, you NEED to make sure to loosen and retorque your rear control arm bolts with the full weight of your Jeep on the ground after the lift is installed. Placing your rear axle on jack stands and removing your tires will simulate this and make it easier to do.

Not sure why you feel a need t replace your tie rod and drag link but one thing you should be aware of if that the jam nuts on the big aluminum ones can be tough to keep in place. When they loosen up, the threads inside will get jacked up (something I see often) so make sure to check on them regularly.
 
Upvote 0
wayoflife said:
Okay, that helps and I would say that the hardest part of the lift install will be getting the control arm torqued to spec. The values are really high and it can be difficult to get there one handed as you'll need to hold a wrench on the other side too. Bigger the torque wrench the more leverage you'll have and this will make it easier. Having a big crescent wrench and one that can reach the ground can help too as that will allow you to focus your efforts on just the torque wrench.

Also, even though you'll only be replacing the front control arms, you NEED to make sure to loosen and retorque your rear control arm bolts with the full weight of your Jeep on the ground after the lift is installed. Placing your rear axle on jack stands and removing your tires will simulate this and make it easier to do.

Not sure why you feel a need t replace your tie rod and drag link but one thing you should be aware of if that the jam nuts on the big aluminum ones can be tough to keep in place. When they loosen up, the threads inside will get jacked up (something I see often) so make sure to check on them regularly.
Click to expand...
My tie rod and drag link are all rusted and bent.
So youre saying I shouldn't have gone with aluminum? 🤦‍♂️ Darn it.
 
Upvote 0
Well placed bottle jacks can help get extra separation between the frame and axle to drop the springs out. And to WJCO’s point, get the frame up as high as you can so you can get as much axle drop as possible. Otherwise, you may hit your rotors on the ground before you have enough space to remove the springs.
 
Upvote 0
cloudpump said:
My tie rod and drag link are all rusted and bent.
So youre saying I shouldn't have gone with aluminum? 🤦‍♂️ Darn it.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily, just that you should check it on a regular basis. Essentially, after every wheeling trip, give it a look like you might something like your front track bar bolts.
 
Upvote 0
Sharkey said:
Well placed bottle jacks can help get extra separation between the frame and axle to drop the springs out. And to WJCO’s point, get the frame up as high as you can so you can get as much axle drop as possible. Otherwise, you may hit your rotors on the ground before you have enough space to remove the springs.
Click to expand...
Agreed. 6 ton stands or better will typically be tall enough. Same goes for a floor jack, one that will go at least 20" or more is what you'll want.
 
Upvote 0
wayoflife said:
Also, I see that you live in the rust belt. I would highly recommend removing the joints from the control arms, apply antiseize on the threads and then reassemble them.
Click to expand...
Awesome advice. 12 years left until I can retire from this state. Looking to go back to Nevada.
Also, I will keep checking on the front end. Because I live where they salt everything in the winter, I am always checking and fighting corrosion.
 
Upvote 0
cloudpump said:
Awesome advice. 12 years left until I can retire from this state. Looking to go back to Nevada.
Also, I will keep checking on the front end. Because I live where they salt everything in the winter, I am always checking and fighting corrosion.
Click to expand...
I've started using WD-40 corrosion inhibitor after the JLU parts seem to rust much faster than the JK (makes no sense but...)

Seems to be helping.
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom