Input on Next Step for Frankenlift

[mphilleo]

Hey folks, I'm looking to lean on your collective knowledge and experience again. I'll try to be as succinct as possible. Long story short, I bought my 2012 with a 3.25" RC lift kit I didn't ask for. Since then, I changed it to the following:

- Removed the coil spring spacers (0.75") to reduce the lift to 2.5"
- Installed Rancho RS9000XL shocks (which were sized for the 3.25" lift and are now a little too long)
- MC adjustable front and rear control arms
- Rancho front geo correction bracket (overkill)
- Adjustable front and rear track bars
- Mopar rear sway bar links are up front
- Teraflex 3-4" lift rear sway bar links
- Teraflex high angle front driveshaft Rzeppa joint
- MC coil spring correction wedges and retainers in the rear
- I still have the awful RC coil springs front and rear (installed in the OEM isolators)

This has been taken to the alignment shop since I removed the coil spring spacers to ensure everything was correct. It drives fine, but I still have a popping sound in the rear right corner when taking left turns under load.* I've settled and retorqued all control arms, used a thicker shoulder bolt on the rear track bar and triple-checked the torque on the rear sway bar and rear shocks. At this point, I'm thinking it's due to the oversized shocks not playing well with the old, crummy RC springs. I also have new spare tire bumpers for my tailgate and the latch is adjusted properly.

I'm considering just buying a set of MC springs and Rocksport long travel shocks to finish off the last of the RC components. Another option I've considered, since I do like the RS9000XL shocks (even if they're already rusting a bit), is installing a combination of Rancho components to keep the Jeep at 2.5" of lift. There's also a couple other decent options like OME or even another kit from Rancho for a 2.0" lift. I don't claim to know enough about lifts to understand why it contains shocks that raise the front end 2.0" and then shocks that raise the rear only 0.75" unless that's somehow due to the nature of the JKU. The drawback with further reducing the lift, is likely needing to adjust the control arms, adjustable track bars, replace the rear sway bar links, and having to realign it. I'm not sure if I'm chasing my tail, but I resolved to fix this popping noise and I have isolated it to the rear passenger side. Any input, as always, is greatly appreciated.

*I checked my maintenance notes and it does appear my issues with a popping noise coincided with installation of the RS9000XL shocks, so it must be related

 

[wayoflife]

Just so that I'm getting this straight, in a nutshell, you have a popping sound in the rear that only happens when taking left turns? Is that correct?

If so, it is just a single POP? Or, is it more like a POP POP POP?

 

[mphilleo]

Just so that I'm getting this straight, in a nutshell, you have a popping sound in the rear that only happens when taking left turns? Is that correct?

If so, it is just a single POP? Or, is it more like a POP POP POP?

I have a consistent commute where I have two left turns that are relatively sharp and it seems if I load up the suspension with that action, it makes a single pop. When I took my hard left to part into our lot, I came out and got underneath the rear end and pushed up on the frame, and could hear it again a couple more times. The other thing I noticed is that it is related slightly to elevation (inclined upward) as I do it. I can also experience it repeatedly a few times if I'm bouncing down washboard roads.

 

[wayoflife]

I have a consistent commute where I have two left turns that are relatively sharp and it seems if I load up the suspension with that action, it makes a single pop. When I took my hard left to part into our lot, I came out and got underneath the rear end and pushed up on the frame, and could hear it again a couple more times. The other thing I noticed is that it is related slightly to elevation (inclined upward) as I do it. I can also experience it repeatedly a few times if I'm bouncing down washboard roads.

Well, the good news is that you can recreate the sound without driving your Jeep. That being the case, I would have someone bounce or push your Jeep to make it happen and then go around listening and feeling your suspension components. Whatever is causing the POP, you should be able to feel it. Typically, a single pop like what you're describing is caused by a bolt that is just loose enough, not tightened to torque spec, to cause a shifting of the component in question. Things like sway bar links, track bars and the like.

 

[mphilleo]

Well, the good news is that you can recreate the sound without driving your Jeep. That being the case, I would have someone bounce or push your Jeep to make it happen and then go around listening and feeling your suspension components. Whatever is causing the POP, you should be able to feel it. Typically, a single pop like what you're describing is caused by a bolt that is just loose enough, not tightened to torque spec, to cause a shifting of the component in question. Things like sway bar links, track bars and the like.

I agree. I've noticed that I can get a softer version of that noise when rocking the Jeep towards the passenger side instead of the other way around, so that's interesting. I know there's a lot of moving parts at play and I'm pretty sure my wife will help me with this if I ask nicely, so I'll try to feel where it's coming from. In your experience, is it possible that grossly oversized shocks (for 3.5-4" lift) can cause so much vertical tension that the 2.5" lift springs may be popping even if they're secured to the axle? I did check to make sure they're seated properly in the isolators and they appear to be.

 

[wayoflife]

I agree. I've noticed that I can get a softer version of that noise when rocking the Jeep towards the passenger side instead of the other way around, so that's interesting. I know there's a lot of moving parts at play and I'm pretty sure my wife will help me with this if I ask nicely, so I'll try to feel where it's coming from. In your experience, is it possible that grossly oversized shocks (for 3.5-4" lift) can cause so much vertical tension that the 2.5" lift springs may be popping even if they're secured to the axle? I did check to make sure they're seated properly in the isolators and they appear to be.

In my experience? No. Unless your spring is broke (and I have broken a spring before), it will NEVER make a popping sound when driving around town. Your shock being too long will cause it to bottom out but it will ONLY make a popping sound IF the bolts are not tightened to torque spec and are shifting in the mounts.

 

[mphilleo]

In my experience? No. Unless your spring is broke (and I have broken a spring before), it will NEVER make a popping sound when driving around town. Your shock being too long will cause it to bottom out but it will ONLY make a popping sound IF the bolts are not tightened to torque spec and are shifting in the mounts.

Thank you for the confirmation, I appreciate it. Incidentally, I do have two spares of my rear shocks (replaced due to the dial adjuster knobs having been broken) that I can install to see if there's a problem with the shock(s) itself.

 

[wayoflife]

Thank you for the confirmation, I appreciate it. Incidentally, I do have two spares of my rear shocks (replaced due to the dial adjuster knobs having been broken) that I can install to see if there's a problem with the shock(s) itself.

You don't even need to go that far. Just remove the shocks and try cycling them by hand on the ground. So long as they compress and extend smoothly and evenly, they are fine.

That said, I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

 

[mphilleo]

You don't even need to go that far. Just remove the shocks and try cycling them by hand on the ground. So long as they compress and extend smoothly and evenly, they are fine.

That said, I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

When I mentioned settling the suspension, I loosened all eight bolts securing the rear control arms and bounced the Jeep up and down, back and forth. I've heard if they're installed while at droop, it can cause binding of the joints. Then, I retorqued them to 125 ft lb. I also adjusted and torqued the rear track bar. I did notice a rub mark on the rear passenger brake dust shield from one of the rear control arm bolts, but I think that was when the previous owner was running the OEM track bar on the RC lift and no corrections. The only other thing that I can think of, that I haven't checked, is possibly a broken or missing brake pad clip, or maybe something with the parking brake system, although there's no binding on the cable and it works fine.

 

[wayoflife]

When I mentioned settling the suspension, I loosened all eight bolts securing the rear control arms and bounced the Jeep up and down, back and forth. I've heard if they're installed while at droop, it can cause binding of the joints. Then, I retorqued them to 125 ft lb. I also adjusted and torqued the rear track bar. I did notice a rub mark on the rear passenger brake dust shield from one of the rear control arm bolts, but I think that was when the previous owner was running the OEM track bar on the RC lift and no corrections. The only other thing that I can think of, that I haven't checked, is possibly a broken or missing brake pad clip, or maybe something with the parking brake system, although there's no binding on the cable and it works fine.

What you've heard ONLY applies to factory control arms or aftermarket ones that have Clevite/bonded rubber bushings. I just re-read your first post and see that you have MC adjustable front and rear control arms and they do not have them. Needless to say, the step you took was unnecessary and most likely, NOT your problem.

Again, I would double check your sway bar link bolts, shock bolts and track bar bolts to make sure they are tightened to torque spec and then if they all check out, you need to have someone help you locate the POP by feel. Trust me, taking things off that don't need to be taken off or making blind guesses as to what your problem might be is just a waste of time.

 

[mphilleo]

What you've heard ONLY applies to factory control arms or aftermarket ones that have Clevite/bonded rubber bushings. I just re-read your first post and see that you have MC adjustable front and rear control arms and they do not have them. Needless to say, the step you took was unnecessary and most likely, NOT your problem.

Again, I would double check your sway bar link bolts, shock bolts and track bar bolts to make sure they are tightened to torque spec and then if they all check out, you need to have someone help you locate the POP by feel. Trust me, taking things off that don't need to be taken off or making blind guesses as to what your problem might be is just a waste of time.

Thanks for the guidance, I'll try this next.

 

[CalSgt]

I've developed a strange "POP" in my JL when hitting certain bumps at low speed two different times... Both times it was a gas tank skid bolt that loosened up and would pop when the fuel shifted in the tank.

I crawled around with a deadblow hammer thumping things until I found something that didn't sound right.

 

[mphilleo]

I've developed a strange "POP" in my JL when hitting certain bumps at low speed two different times... Both times it was a gas tank skid bolt that loosened up and would pop when the fuel shifted in the tank.

I crawled around with a deadblow hammer thumping things until I found something that didn't sound right.

Thanks, I'm willing to put in the time to figure this out, so I appreciate the suggestion!

 

[bmkrinne]

I agree with Eddie, sounds like you and a buddy should be able to quickly pinpoint since you can recreate the condition by rocking the jeep.

I have had similar noises and it has always been a bolted joint or a hard contact between two components. I have the same Rancho 9000 shocks and have had to overtorque the lower bolt to stop the same ticking/popping noise on my rear passenger shock.

Another thought - some of the aftermarket track bars, control arms, swaybar end links, etc may have some movement with stock bolts even when torqued to spec. I went cheap on a couple components when building my jeep and regret it still. I put a RC adjustable front track bar on and had the same popping noise. It was the larger bore on the bushing eye allowing movement in the joint at OEM torque. Replaced the bolts with an aftermarket solid shank bolt kit and problem solved.

BTW, I recommend you take a look at the EVO plush ride springs as a replacement for those RC springs AND get rid of the geo brackets.

 

[mphilleo]

I agree with Eddie, sounds like you and a buddy should be able to quickly pinpoint since you can recreate the condition by rocking the jeep.

I have had similar noises and it has always been a bolted joint or a hard contact between two components. I have the same Rancho 9000 shocks and have had to overtorque the lower bolt to stop the same ticking/popping noise on my rear passenger shock.

Another thought - some of the aftermarket track bars, control arms, swaybar end links, etc may have some movement with stock bolts even when torqued to spec. I went cheap on a couple components when building my jeep and regret it still. I put a RC adjustable front track bar on and had the same popping noise. It was the larger bore on the bushing eye allowing movement in the joint at OEM torque. Replaced the bolts with an aftermarket solid shank bolt kit and problem solved.

BTW, I recommend you take a look at the EVO plush ride springs as a replacement for those RC springs AND get rid of the geo brackets.

Thanks for sharing that, I appreciate it. I'll make sure I have those bolts nice and tight. If necessary, I can replace some of the fasteners with ones that have a thicker shoulder, too. I'll check out those EVO springs as well.

 

[mphilleo]

It's always bothered me when certain threads go unresolved, because they're not as helpful without a resolution when one's found. Anyway, thanks to all who weighed in, I appreciate it. With the help of my wife (pushing while I was underneath the Jeep), the source of the noise was located. In retrospect, I'm surprised it was so simple and so ridiculous. A couple of the bolts securing the hinge, both to the tailgate and to the body, were looser than they should've been. For good measure, I re-torqued the bolts securing the spare tire carrier to the tailgate too. The previous owner had installed an oversized tire with a carrier extension without using the properly sized spare tire bumpers and that took a toll on the OEM hinge. I've got a heavy duty one on the way, but for now, the noise is gone. Sometimes it's simpler than you think.

 

[wayoflife]

It's always bothered me when certain threads go unresolved, because they're not as helpful without a resolution when one's found. Anyway, thanks to all who weighed in, I appreciate it. With the help of my wife (pushing while I was underneath the Jeep), the source of the noise was located. In retrospect, I'm surprised it was so simple and so ridiculous. A couple of the bolts securing the hinge, both to the tailgate and to the body, were looser than they should've been. For good measure, I re-torqued the bolts securing the spare tire carrier to the tailgate too. The previous owner had installed an oversized tire with a carrier extension without using the properly sized spare tire bumpers and that took a toll on the OEM hinge. I've got a heavy duty one on the way, but for now, the noise is gone. Sometimes it's simpler than you think.

LOL - thanks for the update and glad to hear the solution was easy as that!