Info overload on tire sizes, offsets, lifts, backspace........

P

Physicistkev

Member
Ok. I find it truly amazing that on a single type of vehicle, a Jeep JLU, that there is sooooooo much variability that's it's impossible for me to find a clear answer. Well, it's not one car either. There's the Sport/S, Rubicon, Mohave and lesser known variants. Combine this with internet experts and... you end up with a headache.

I have a 2018 JLU Sport S with the LSD. I am open to 33's or 35's, but I can't reliably find what is truly impacted by a decision between the two.

Here are the things that effect the decision:
  • This is a daily driver that will off-road a few times a year... for now
  • I want confidence for off-roading easy to low-medium trails, camping and moderate to heavy snow use
  • Fuel economy is not paramount, but I don't want to poor gas out of the tank
  • I would like to keep the drive train close to stock performance (re-gearing if necessary)
It's so easy to get sucked into the discussions and believe that 33's (looking at Nitto 255/80r17 or similar as I like the skinny and tall look) are not going to do what I need, but I truly think they will. They should also not make too much of a difference in the drive train performance. I just don't grasp what I NEED to do vs SHOULD do to make this work best. Avoiding blatant issues that rapidly speed up wear of components is a priority, but I also want to raise the JLU a reasonable amount for the 33's to prevent rub, get a better ride and get a better look. Flame suit on..... The look is the least important.

So, here is what I'm thinking
  • Nitto Ridge Grappler 255/80r17 tires on stock rims
  • EVO Enforcer Suspension System, Overland Stage 2
    • King 2.5 shocks seem expensive, but I have a feeling the ride will be far better than the Bilsteins (is this overkill)
    • Do I need track bars, I don't think so, but information is unclear. If track bars are appropriate or are better for wear of components, I'm happy to get them
  • Front bumper with winch (stubby metal, so weight is accounted for)
  • Rear bumper (metal, so weight is accounted for)
  • Some camping gear and tools will be used when going into the wilderness, but not everyday... it's usually me and a briefcase (again for a better understanding of weight)
My understanding is that the above is a pretty damn good setup and I think, well balanced. Meaning each part is appropriate for the other parts. Is it though? Is the suspension kit overkill for what I want to do? If it is, going to 35's is an option, but then you have to look at re-gearing to 4.10/4.56 (I would go 4.56 based on tables I've seen) and new wheels with proper spacing (still haven't figured that one out yet). Will the bumpers and other additions lower the lift enough to force a higher one for the use of 35's. Oh, and don't forget that everyone says that the LSD's don't like 35's and that the front axle is going to melt with 35's. ;)

Honestly, I just get lost at this point because I have no experience with the variables and everything becomes second guessing. I feel like I understand the issues and variables (thank you Eddie and Cindy for all the videos), I just don't know how they are going to act or react.

I would love to do the work myself, the re-gear is beyond my tools I believe (I lack presses), so I am heavily leaning towards the 33's. Also, it's not like I can't change it later to something bigger. I don't know of any recommended shops near me (Northern VA) that could either provide some knowledge or do some of the work that I can't.

So, after all that. The question is, is the setup above a reasonable configuration for 33's? Is it a configuration that will support 35's with a re-gear and wheels with proper spacing?

I'm sure these questions have been asked many times, but when I read those posts (here and elsewhere) it's never a complete answer or has a different variable that I don't know how to translate to my situation.

Thank you ahead of time for any input and responses that I may receive.
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
Honestly, there is ZERO reason for lifting your Jeep for just a set of 33 (255s). I am currently running 285s on Pippi which is a stock JL 2-door Sport. ZERO issues. If you're really wanting to spend money on a lift and even regearing, you really should be looking at 35's and with 4.56 gears, as you have already figured out. I would never pretend to know as much as what "everyone says" but from personal experience running this setup and on lesser Jeeps over the past 20 years, I can tell you that you will be FINE with this setup and with LSD and stock axles, especially for how you're planning to use your Jeep.
 
Upvote 0
Thank you for checking my math. Experience is something you can't cheat on and sometimes knowing a lot about one thing, gives you decision paralysis on other "similar yet different" things.

If we were talking about slick tire temps, tire sipes input into tire heating, trail braking benefits, Ohlins or WP bike suspensions...; I could rattle on technical details or cut to the chase and provide an experienced answer. It's humbling to "start over" when it comes to experience based knowledge.
 
Upvote 0
Physicistkev said:
Thank you for checking my math. Experience is something you can't cheat on and sometimes knowing a lot about one thing, gives you decision paralysis on other "similar yet different" things.

If we were talking about slick tire temps, tire sipes input into tire heating, trail braking benefits, Ohlins or WP bike suspensions...; I could rattle on technical details or cut to the chase and provide an experienced answer. It's humbling to "start over" when it comes to experience based knowledge.
Click to expand...
Oh, and the wife said I could do what I wanted to the Jeep as long as I didn’t go back to two wheels. So I’m trying to find a local shop that can do gears to find out the cost. If it’s within reason, 35’s it is.
 
Upvote 0
Physicistkev said:
Thank you for checking my math. Experience is something you can't cheat on and sometimes knowing a lot about one thing, gives you decision paralysis on other "similar yet different" things.

If we were talking about slick tire temps, tire sipes input into tire heating, trail braking benefits, Ohlins or WP bike suspensions...; I could rattle on technical details or cut to the chase and provide an experienced answer. It's humbling to "start over" when it comes to experience based knowledge.
Click to expand...
What I can tell you is that the internet is filled with a LOT OF REALLY BAD INFORMATION. Or at least, from what I've seen and I have been doing this Jeep thing well before the internet Jeep thing was a thing. Best advise I can give you is to try and not worry too much about what you're doing and just have fun with your Jeep. Spend money on things that you really want and or need and not on things that "everyone says" you need. (y)
 
Upvote 0
Physicistkev said:
Oh, and the wife said I could do what I wanted to the Jeep as long as I didn’t go back to two wheels. So I’m trying to find a local shop that can do gears to find out the cost. If it’s within reason, 35’s it is.
Click to expand...
You should expect to pay about $2k or more for a regear on a JL
 
Upvote 0
wayoflife said:
You should expect to pay about $2k or more for a regear on a JL
Click to expand...
The high end has been $3300, low end is $2400. The local shop I’ve heard really good things about and I’ve had the best experience with so far is right in the middle at $2800. They also happen to be the closest.

The benefits of living in Northern VA.

All have recommended going 4.56, which when looking at the math is going to increase rpm at 70mph by about 300rpms with a 35 inch tire, 34.67 per Nitto’s tech details (35x11.5).

This load out, including the EVO lift, bumpers and rock guards are a good start for us. We have a larger boat to sell and a Nissan Titan thats here for the sole purpose of towing it. Once those are sold, a Gladiator, or what my daughter calls a Jeek, is the next purchase.

Once that happens and I see how much fun I have and how often I get to use the JL I’m building, we’ll see about going bigger.
 
Upvote 0
CalSgt said:
If you're gonna go big, another option is to source some used Rubicon axles on Craigslist or facebook markets... They come with 4.10 gears and lockers and they're a little wider too. I'm not sure what the going price is for these but it’s probably not far off from the cost to re-gear your sport axles.
Click to expand...
I’m going to have to look into this. If it’s close cost wise, the fitment is not too technical and access to the lockers is relatively easy. This might be viable.
 
Upvote 0
Either decide what tires you want, or what lift you want first. If you're going to run 12.5" or 13.5" tires, then you need wider wheels. So once you find out what width wheels you need, ask lift manufacturer what the recommended back spacing is for the lift you want.
Once you have that info, go wheel shopping with your parameters set.

Regear, yeah look for Rubi takeoffs, 4:10's will work with 35's (on my JT they are fine). That will give you more options if you decide to go taller later and save you some money up front.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom