OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Lol he works at 4wp. That should say it all.
Dynatrac C's are huge compared to stock. Driveshafts depends on gears and tire size.
I truely can't make up my mind: PR44 or PR60
- Thread starter mastrcruse
- Start date
Lol he works at 4wp. That should say it all.
Dynatrac C's are huge compared to stock. Driveshafts depends on gears and tire size.
MICP3309
Member
And this is why.
As was explained to me...
http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/pro-rock44.html
Edit: only part of the picture was copied but if you look at the comparison pic on the link above you'll see.
mastrcruse
New member
Was gonna go with 4.88s because I won't go higher than 37's if I go PR44.
I told him on the phone Im not sure I trust in something made by transamerican.
Thanks again for all the help
I told him on the phone Im not sure I trust in something made by transamerican.
Thanks again for all the help
ERAUGrad04
Caught the Bug
The end forgings (Cs) are much stouter on the ProRock.
http://www.dynatrac.com/products/jk/images/prorock44/comparison2.jpg
jkur77
Member
Yes the outer c's are bigger (beefier). The only thing that would be the same size is where the knuckle bolts up to the ball joints.
I would go with the 1350.
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mastrcruse
New member
^awesome thanks. Thinking if I'd go with the PR44 my setup would be extreme duty, unlimited, 4.88, 1350, Dynatrac ball joints, ARB, chromoly 35 spline shafts
Not sure what other options I'm missing on the 44. Any suggestions?
PR60 would be pretty standard 8x6.5, ARB, and 4.88 with stubby hub kit being the only option.
Not sure what other options I'm missing on the 44. Any suggestions?
PR60 would be pretty standard 8x6.5, ARB, and 4.88 with stubby hub kit being the only option.
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:cheesy: You have got to be kidding me. We DID NOT say the same thing as gear ratio and tire size are the ONLY things that will effect front driveline vibration. You're the ONLY ONE who pointed out the 3.8L motor as if it meant something. :naw:
Nice try buddy but you are so full of it! All the 3.8L motors come with the SAME 42RLE automatic transmission - there is NO "IF" about it. You were WRONG plain and simple and you'd do your self a favor if you just admitted as much instead of trying to back pedal with this load of crap :naw:
I think you've got it covered.
Actually, the PR60 comes standard with 5x5.5 but, if you were to go this route, I would recommend going 8 lug. Also, I would opt for the Foote competition shafts with CTM u-joints. Just make sure if you do this, you ALSO get a full float PR60 or PR80 or else your front end will be way stronger than your rear. Trust me, I've tried going this route and it doesn't last long.
mastrcruse
New member
^Thanks Eddie. Is predicate the advice from all. We finally found a house last night and put an offer on it so if we get it then PR44 is it haha.
Honestly, for most people, it's all you'll need. While I do run a PR60 and PR80 on Moby, I still run a PR44 on Rubicat.
BTW, congrats to you on your new house. I hope you get it
mastrcruse
New member
If I go with the PR60 what bolt pattern should I go with? Sounds like 8x6.5" get me the strongest "standard" items such as brakes ect but maybe I misunderstood the Dynatrac rep.
What will you be doing with the rear end?
mastrcruse
New member
For right now I'll be running the Dana 44 and eventually will do a 60 rear. No plan to do a hemi or LS so think that should be good
Then I would recommend you get a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. This way, you can run wheel adapters in the rear to convert your factory 5x5 bolt patter to 5x5.5 and give your rear axle a width similar to your front. You cannot do this with 8 lug and this way, you will only need to get one set of wheels. Of course, if it were me, I would just stick with the ProRock 44 and call it a day.
mastrcruse
New member
Cool thanks. I'm jumping back and forth only because I just received a quote for ARB 35 spline chromoly at $6k for a PR44 and Northridge (not quoted a PR44 yet) said only option is to go with RCVs so I'm getting conflicting numbers and conflicting information around options. Comparing that to the $7900 for a PR60 I'm having a hard time with which to choose. I'm awaiting Dynatracs response on 35 spline chromolys.
Ummm, just so that we're on the same page, you are NOT comparing apples to apples here. You are basically looking at a fully built PR44 and a bare bones PR60. If you're going to go PR60, you really should do it right from the get go or else you will be doing it again later.
mastrcruse
New member
I totally understand that. Only option on the PR60 was the stubby hub kit. Dynatrac rep said this would be a great package to build off of over time. His thoughts though were that the standard PR60 was stronger than the built PR44. Again, I apologize if I'm looking at this stuff incorrectly as Im definitely a newb to axles components/capabilities.
He made it sound like if I started with the bare PR60 with stub hub kit that the other upgrades down the road were not much more expensive after the fact. He did say the stubby hub kit was the biggest expense down the road--do it now $500, do it later 2500
For the PR44--should I get this option?
* (Upgrade to Dynatrac JK Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification, Installed, w/Ram Assist Tabs Loose (For High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications) = add $79.00)
He made it sound like if I started with the bare PR60 with stub hub kit that the other upgrades down the road were not much more expensive after the fact. He did say the stubby hub kit was the biggest expense down the road--do it now $500, do it later 2500
For the PR44--should I get this option?
* (Upgrade to Dynatrac JK Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification, Installed, w/Ram Assist Tabs Loose (For High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications) = add $79.00)
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