How are your coilovers set up?

dchew

dchew

Active Member
This post in Eddie and Cindy's Tahoe thread got me thinking about my setup:
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?8844-Livin-the-Life-Tahoe-2013&p=143781&viewfull=1#post143781

Those coils are really cranked down for more lift compared to mine. I assume this was because they were loaded up for a month-long trip, not to mention RubiCat has an Evo carrier vs. my lightweight-but-not-recommended Teraflex tire carrier. For reference my JKUR weighs in at 5600 lbs with me, 1/2 tank of gas and the normal tools / recovery gear.

There may be enough bolt-on coilover's on this forum to show some variations. I'm curious how others are running??

Here is how I'm set up in the front. Sorry for the dirt :)

DChew_130721_1054.jpg

DChew_130721_1055.jpg

And in the back. Note I cut down my bumpstop extensions about 1" (probably too much).
DChew_130721_1056.jpg

DChew_130721_1057.jpg

I've got relatively little lift dialed in, with ~1" to the bumpstops, and a little less to the double nut rings that initiate the heavier spring. BTW I did not change my springs; are the standard EVO/King setup. I did add the AGM sliders, which means my double nut rings are higher than with King sliders. It is the distance from the top of the slider that matters. About 1/2-3/4" in my case.

I certainly use my bumpstops constantly with this setup. I also know EVO sometimes recommends reducing the pressure in the King bump stops, since JK's are relatively light. I haven't done that, and I think they are a bit harsh.

Dave
 
Paisano said:
View attachment 40766
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Same comment as Atch, how much lift are you acheiving? Your rear coil looks like it is definitely under load in your photos. That is more compression than you want in a coilover at rest and under no additional load. Unless you are running some serious lift (5+") not sure why you are showing that much compression. Maybe the shock needs to be charged?? You can always swap out the 250lbs springs and replace with a 300. Definitely give ORE a call too.
 
GCM 2 said:
Same comment as Atch, how much lift are you acheiving? Your rear coil looks like it is definitely under load in your photos. That is more compression than you want in a coilover at rest and under no additional load. Unless you are running some serious lift (5+"), you can always swap out the 250lbs springs and replace with a 300. Definitely give ORE a call too.
Click to expand...

Yeah more than me too. Greg, did you see the photo in the Tahoe thread? That looks like how Eddie is running Rubicat based on the photo in my link. Speaking of "How much lift are you running?" I am at 12-3/4" spring perch to back of spring tower. I think stock is 9-3/8", but is that for a stock Rubicon or Sahara/Sport? If that was for a Rubicon then I am right around 3.5".

Dave
 
On 5/21/13 I had it in and re-adjusted there was no rake in the rear and coil timing was adjusted. Coil timing was sitting on isolator. That's how it came back and I have to say it does handle the bumps better. I was either bottoming out or hitting my bump stops before I took it in. The rear uses 200/200 springs and the front 250/250. I originally had ordered 250 spring for the rear but the man said nope this was his suggestion.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
dchew said:
This post in Eddie and Cindy's Tahoe thread got me thinking about my setup:
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?8844-Livin-the-Life-Tahoe-2013&p=143781&viewfull=1#post143781

Those coils are really cranked down for more lift compared to mine. I assume this was because they were loaded up for a month-long trip, not to mention RubiCat has an Evo carrier vs. my lightweight-but-not-recommended Teraflex tire carrier. For reference my JKUR weighs in at 5600 lbs with me, 1/2 tank of gas and the normal tools / recovery gear.

There may be enough bolt-on coilover's on this forum to show some variations. I'm curious how others are running??

Here is how I'm set up in the front. Sorry for the dirt :)

View attachment 40744

View attachment 40745

And in the back. Note I cut down my bumpstop extensions about 1" (probably too much).
View attachment 40746

View attachment 40747

I've got relatively little lift dialed in, with ~1" to the bumpstops, and a little less to the double nut rings that initiate the heavier spring. BTW I did not change my springs; are the standard EVO/King setup. I did add the AGM sliders, which means my double nut rings are higher than with King sliders. It is the distance from the top of the slider that matters. About 1/2-3/4" in my case.

I certainly use my bumpstops constantly with this setup. I also know EVO sometimes recommends reducing the pressure in the King bump stops, since JK's are relatively light. I haven't done that, and I think they are a bit harsh.

Dave
Click to expand...

Running air bumps you will be hitting them sooner than the factory set up. It's designed that way.
 
Originally Posted by Paisano

attachment.php
Click to expand...



Same comment as Atch, how much lift are you acheiving? Your rear coil looks like it is definitely under load in your photos. That is more compression than you want in a coilover at rest and under no additional load. Unless you are running some serious lift (5+") not sure why you are showing that much compression. Maybe the shock needs to be charged?? You can always swap out the 250lbs springs and replace with a 300. Definitely give ORE a call too.

On 5/21/13 I had it in and re-adjusted there was no rake in the rear and coil timing was adjusted. Coil timing was sitting on isolator. That's how it came back and I have to say it does handle the bumps better. I was either bottoming out or hitting my bump stops before I took it in. The rear uses 200/200 springs and the front 250/250. I originally had ordered 250 spring for the rear but the man said nope this was his suggestion.


Originally Posted by GCM 2





Yeah more than me too. Greg, did you see the photo in the Tahoe thread? That looks like how Eddie is running Rubicat based on the photo in my link. Speaking of "How much lift are you running?" I am at 12-3/4" spring perch to back of spring tower. I think stock is 9-3/8", but is that for a stock Rubicon or Sahara/Sport? If that was for a Rubicon then I am right around 3.5".


I believe mine are set up more like Rubicats now. You're right there is more of a preload on them now but like I said it seems to work better over the whoops.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
 
Thank you rtguy1. I should be clear that I really like how my setup runs, although as previously mentioned I may reduce the nitrogen pressure in my bumpstops, but not sure about that... I do like to experiment, but it's tough to do it in a semi-controlled way. Far too much of my own perception and bias in whatever "testing" I try. But hey, if I think an adjustment I try makes it ride better, I suppose that's all I really need!

I just think it is interesting to open a conversation about all the different ways this system can run; it's one of the great benefits of coil overs. When I saw the photo of how Rubicat is set, it got me thinking that I don't remember seeing a thread about the options and general guidelines.

Obviously the more lift you crank in (by lowering the upper retaining ring), the more up travel you will have before hitting the bump stops. But I think the ride will be stiffer assuming the same springs since the coil is compressed more. Paisano reports a better experience in the whoops. I assume that is because of the increased up-travel, or maybe the change in spring rates, IDK. I did have the same thoughts as Greg & Atch when I first saw his setting (and Rubicat's).

The other adjustment is the big lock nuts inside, which transfers movement to the second, usually stiffer, spring. I've tried to set mine so that engages about half way between static ride and the bumpstops. Chris makes the point that with King bumps, the the setup is designed to use the stops. I think of it like a third spring. I'm sure that's not technically correct but it helps me get to sleep at night. :yup:

So far I've got the following sort-of-kinda guidelines:
  1. If you want more lift, lower the top retaining ring. If you want less lift, raise it.
  2. If you are bottoming out on the bumpstops too much, first make sure the lock nuts are being used to transfer the force to the stiffer spring sooner. That's done by lowering the nuts. Second, crank up the lift by lowering the top retaining ring. This gives more up-travel and stiffer up travel.
  3. If you want a stiffer ride, or if you have a particularly heavy Jeep, or if you want to hit the bumpstops less without lifting the Jeep at all, exchange for stiffer springs.
  4. If your ride is too stiff, try raising those two lock nuts, lowering the Jeep (raise the top retaining ring), or get softer springs.
  5. If you have hydraulic bumps, you can change the nitrogen charge if they feel too stiff. I think they come with 150 psi from the King Factory.

Does that make sense or am I all wet?

Dave

rtguy1 said:
Maybe this will help. It seems you are mostly concerned with the rear, but my setup in the rear is different. The front however is the same as yours. I also have the AGM sliders. These were setup by evo. Looks very similar to how your fronts are now.
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I don't think the ride is stiffer when you adjust for a taller ride height. The coils are single rate so the spring rate does not increase as the upper coil compresses. The spring rate does not change until the timing ring engages the second coil. Than your new rate is the combination of the two coils. :thumb:
 
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