GraniteCrystal build thread

DeJkUnlimited

DeJkUnlimited

Caught the Bug
Clowe said:
Looks good man! I don't know if you have gotten to this yet or not. How did you extend the diff breather tube?

Sent from my VS990 using WAYALIFE mobile app
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The breather hose is retained along the back of the driver side shock tower bracket with a metal clip at the bottom and a black plastic wire tie/retainer clip about 2/3 of the way up, if you pry or push the plastic clip out you can remove the hose easily because the clip at the bottom doesn't go all the way around the hose. Once out you can adjust the plastic clip upwards by twisting back and forth without cutting of the clip. Mine was tight but not too tight to adjust. Then reinstall. You can gain another 1.5-2" easily maybe more.
 
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DeJkUnlimited

DeJkUnlimited

Caught the Bug
GraniteCrystal said:
And here is the pic of step H

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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
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Some might say otherwise but I was able to get my springs in without disconnecting the drag link at the pitman arm. If you're doing a drag link flip? it might be easier to disconnect the drag link at the knuckle and tie it up and out of the way if you're concerned about the joint at either end binding or pinching the boot at the pitman arm. ( * when installed my TF lift on my Sahara, they didn't make mention of the drag link in their instructions, FWIW). Another thing I found that may make it easier to get the springs in, (as long as the lower control arms are still attached at both ends) is removing the axle side upper control arm bolts to allow the axle to rotate down and forward slightly to give you just a little more clearance for the bottom of the coil.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
As for the diff tube goes just go to your local hardware store and buy two long tubes of the same size the breather hose is. I ran my rear hose up into the body behind my rear tail light and the front is up in the engine bay next to my brake booster
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
I don't know why you should have to remove tie rod or drag link. Either way, if you do, leave the nut on the end of the joint threads so if you accidentally hit that area with the hammer, you won't damage the threads.
 
GraniteCrystal

GraniteCrystal

New member
WJCO said:
I don't know why you should have to remove tie rod or drag link. Either way, if you do, leave the nut on the end of the joint threads so if you accidentally hit that area with the hammer, you won't damage the threads.
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cozdude said:
I would suggest NOT removing the drag link from the pitman arm. It's not going to bind so don't worry about it
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DeJkUnlimited said:
Some might say otherwise but I was able to get my springs in without disconnecting the drag link at the pitman arm. If you're doing a drag link flip? it might be easier to disconnect the drag link at the knuckle and tie it up and out of the way if you're concerned about the joint at either end binding or pinching the boot at the pitman arm. ( * when installed my TF lift on my Sahara, they didn't make mention of the drag link in their instructions, FWIW). Another thing I found that may make it easier to get the springs in, (as long as the lower control arms are still attached at both ends) is removing the axle side upper control arm bolts to allow the axle to rotate down and forward slightly to give you just a little more clearance for the bottom of the coil.
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Thanks guys. That got me thinking and looks like I need to incorporate the drag link flip directions at this point. Just removed the stock drag link and now the pitman won't bind. Two birds with one stone.

Going to not touch the tie rod and see if that gives me any issues.

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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
GraniteCrystal said:
Thanks guys. That got me thinking and looks like I need to incorporate the drag link flip directions at this point. Just removed the stock drag link and now the pitman won't bind. Two birds with one stone.

Going to not touch the tie rod and see if that gives me any issues.



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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
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A flip kit will come with an insert, and you will need a large drill bit or reamer. Did it come with anything like that? Still don't see why you would have to pull the upper joint unless it came with a drop pitman arm or something like that.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
GraniteCrystal said:
Thanks guys. That got me thinking and looks like I need to incorporate the drag link flip directions at this point. Just removed the stock drag link and now the pitman won't bind. Two birds with one stone.

Going to not touch the tie rod and see if that gives me any issues.

View attachment 233110

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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
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You didn't need to remove the drag link at all for the install. You don't need to remove the tie rod either as it doesn't do anything for axle droop
 
GraniteCrystal

GraniteCrystal

New member
cozdude said:
You didn't need to remove the drag link at all for the install. You don't need to remove the tie rod either as it doesn't do anything for axle droop
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For the lift install, you're correct. Doing drag link flip and it needs to come out for that though.
WJCO said:
A flip kit will come with an insert, and you will need a large drill bit or reamer. Did it come with anything like that? Still don't see why you would have to pull the upper joint unless it came with a drop pitman arm or something like that.
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Yeah, the kit came with a step bit which was unforeseen but much appreciated.

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http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?p=621404
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
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