That is certainly an option and seems to be a trend on this forum but that is not what he is asking about. There are a number of companies out their offering aluminum or steel fenders which many people prefer.
This just happened to someone recently after hitting an object with a steel fender.
That is certainly an option and seems to be a trend on this forum but that is not what he is asking about. There are a number of companies out their offering aluminum or steel fenders which many people prefer.
That is certainly an option and seems to be a trend on this forum but that is not what he is asking about. There are a number of companies out their offering aluminum or steel fenders which many people prefer.
That is certainly an option and seems to be a trend on this forum but that is not what he is asking about. There are a number of companies out their offering aluminum or steel fenders which many people prefer.
Steel fenders on JKs seem to be popular on mall crawlers as they do look nice, but as others have said they are not as functional on rigs that actually go wheeling. A significant hit will cause damage to the body.
I think a good compromise is MCE flat fenders. Flexible and durable plastic, but look cleaner than cut stock flares. Just my opinion, I'd still cut stock flares though as it is waaay cheaper. Here is a photo of MCE flares for reference.
View attachment 259213
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I used to run plastic bushwackers until rubbing a boulder dimpled my rear quarter panel... The fenders didn't flex, the body did. I also watched as my buddy hooked a boulder with his MCE front fender... The fender folded beautifully, and the screws they used to attach started tearing out of the soda can thick sheet metal, but only after folding the body panel as well. Later that day he leaned his rear fender against a tree... the fender folded and allowed the tree to contact and dent his body just below the bed rail. I leaned against the same tree, but my MC Overlines (purchased after the bushwacker incident) kept my body off the tree and I pulled away without damage. If I had it to do all over again, I would just cut the stock fenders and roll with it. They flex, and more importantly the clips allow them to pop off before damage is done.
I do like my MC Overlines. I have rubbed and hooked them on numerous occasions and so far they have performed as advertised. If looking for metal fenders and you wheel I would suggest you look for those which attached to the sub-frame in the front and use some type of body armor on the rear (there is no sub-frame to attach to back there). I also seem to rub my rear fenders far more than the fronts. MC has recently released a narrow option for the JK, and Crawler Concepts also has a set with rear armor (not sure of others). In my experience, if going with plastic, I would not spend money on anything but a sawzaw, sandpaper and door edge protector.
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed above are those of RockyMtnAnvil and do not represent those of WAYALIFE or its affiliates. This unpaid advertising is brought to you by "my personal experience". It goes without saying that off-roading with or without fenders regardless of material or manufacturer can be dangerous and expensive and should not be attempted by those interested in saving money for retirement.
OP specifically said steel and narrow all you had to do was read the question. Rather be a smartass than a dumbass! :beer:Okay, smartass, then my answer to his question would be, "None of them." WAYALIFE mobile app
OP specifically said steel and narrow all you had to do was read the question. Rather be a smartass than a dumbass! :beer:![]()
OP specifically said steel and narrow all you had to do was read the question. Rather be a smartass than a dumbass! :beer:![]()
OP specifically said steel and narrow all you had to do was read the question. Rather be a smartass than a dumbass! :beer:![]()
I used to run plastic bushwackers until rubbing a boulder dimpled my rear quarter panel... The fenders didn't flex, the body did. I also watched as my buddy hooked a boulder with his MCE front fender... The fender folded beautifully, and the screws they used to attach started tearing out of the soda can thick sheet metal, but only after folding the body panel as well. Later that day he leaned his rear fender against a tree... the fender folded and allowed the tree to contact and dent his body just below the bed rail. I leaned against the same tree, but my MC Overlines (purchased after the bushwacker incident) kept my body off the tree and I pulled away without damage. If I had it to do all over again, I would just cut the stock fenders and roll with it. They flex, and more importantly the clips allow them to pop off before damage is done.
I do like my MC Overlines. I have rubbed and hooked them on numerous occasions and so far they have performed as advertised. If looking for metal fenders and you wheel I would suggest you look for those which attached to the sub-frame in the front and use some type of body armor on the rear (there is no sub-frame to attach to back there). I also seem to rub my rear fenders far more than the fronts. MC has recently released a narrow option for the JK, and Crawler Concepts also has a set with rear armor (not sure of others). In my experience, if going with plastic, I would not spend money on anything but a sawzaw, sandpaper and door edge protector.
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed above are those of RockyMtnAnvil and do not represent those of WAYALIFE or its affiliates. This unpaid advertising is brought to you by "my personal experience". It goes without saying that off-roading with or without fenders regardless of material or manufacturer can be dangerous and expensive and should not be attempted by those interested in saving money for retirement.