Dynatrac Prosteer Ball Joint Interference

JKAnimal

JKAnimal

Caught the Bug
I finally decided to bite the bullet and purchase the Dynatrac ball joints since mine are going out. I thought I'd cheap out but I just don't want to install ball joints more than once.

I've been very excited about this since I know Prosteers are king of the hill when it comes to ball joints, but what I wasn't prepared for was this. :gaah:

Dyanatrac.jpg

Of course my outer axle has the same casting number as the one listed to have interference problems. So now I'd like to ask if anyone else has had this issue and what is the best solution? I'm glad Dynatrac was nice enough to inform me before I put them in, but in all the reading and watching videos of ball joint replacements on 2012 JKs I've never heard this mentioned as a problem.

I have a Colorado trip coming up on Sept. 14th and I need to get these in and would like the most solid solution possible.

Please share the wisdom. Thanks!
 
I know you already spent a lot of money in the ball joints. If its within your means, you could take this opportunity to upgrade your shafts to chromoly. That is my plan next year, to upgrade balljoints and shafts.

Thanks for posting this. I wouldn't have been aware otherwise on my '12 JK.
 
jkjurny said:
I know you already spent a lot of money in the ball joints. If its within your means, you could take this opportunity to upgrade your shafts to chromoly. That is my plan next year, to upgrade balljoints and shafts.

Thanks for posting this. I wouldn't have been aware otherwise on my '12 JK.
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Your welcome, I kind of wish I'd known before purchasing the Ball Joints but it I still need them. It would have helped me plan a little better. I think I now have much more work cut out for me than I previously thought. And I'm on a time schedule now. :banghead:

So hopefully this will give everyone the heads up on the issue! :thumb:

Now all I need is a fix. I'm not too sure if I want to grind on my axle yolk. :thinking:
 
I'd replace the shafts at the same time anyways because you only want to pull those shafts when you have to at the risk of messing up your inner axle seals after multiple pulls.
 
based on your short timeline, I'd consider returning them and look at Moog - they are serviceable as well.

unless you can find new shafts in stock locally or grind them down but personally not a risk i'd want to take before a trip
 
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jeeeep said:
I'd consider returning them and look at Moog - they are serviceable as well.
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I'd have to ask if this issue shows up with any other ball joint manufacturers and they just don't tell you? :idontknow:

Dynatrac seems like a pretty stand up company when it comes to things of this nature.
 
Doknocker said:
I'd have to ask if this issue shows up with any other ball joint manufacturers and they just don't tell you? :idontknow:

Dynatrac seems like a pretty stand up company when it comes to things of this nature.
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I'd guess that because the Dynatrac are completely serviceable, they would be taller than other ball joints. Moog are greaseable but not completely serviceable so they are lower in design
 
Rollincoal420 said:
Where exactly does this interfere? Does anyone got n e pics of this issue?

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Just looking at the Jeep it would appear that the yoke will hit the top of the lower ball joint. There isn't much clearance in that area. I'll snap a pic.
 
jeeeep said:
I'd guess that because the Dynatrac are completely serviceable, they would be taller than other ball joints. Moog are greaseable but not completely serviceable so they are lower in design
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If there is any type of grease zerk on top of the lower ball joint it would probably hit.
 
Doknocker said:
If there is any type of grease zerk on top of the lower ball joint it would probably hit.
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so maybe it would be possible to grease it, remove the zerk and use a plug until after the trip? maybe that'll give you the clearance without grinding....
 
Here is a pic of the factory ball joint and the amount of space between it and the yoke.

Honestly it might not require much grinding but I don't want to risk weakening the part. :idontknow: maybe it's not a big deal but I'm still a bit wary.

IMG_3167.jpg
 
yea...it may not matter since the older units did not have the extra outer shoulder material but you are running 37's...
personally I hate removing material even though sometime you just need to do it. it doesn't look like you may have to take too much off the shoulder..at least no grinding on the u-joint section....
 
I am honestly hoping someone else has run into this issue and can impart some wisdom into this thread. :yup:
 
It looks like where it's probably going to contact, you should have or create any problems with alittle amount of grinding. I can't imagine the new ball joints are that big.

You could always grind that corner of the ball joint doing just a hair to. Everyone will want to say you can't do that, but really just the little bit you may need to grind, it would probably only be a spot maybe an inch long or so and simply bevel the corner back. Just a thought

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Look at it this way; you now have the perfect excuse to upgrade front shafts:brows:
 
Rollincoal420 said:
It looks like where it's probably going to contact, you should have or create any problems with a little amount of grinding. I can't imagine the new ball joints are that big.

You could always grind that corner of the ball joint doing just a hair to.
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You are probably right about that but I would rather grind the yoke instead of the ball joint for fear of voiding a warranty. The yoke is much cheaper to replace than the ball joint. Also as you've stated It probably won't be much grinding.

After looking at bdmakenna's pics I may have a little more room than I think.

Thanks everyone for your comments and advice! I'll probably start this install this week. Hopefully Wednesday at the latest.
 
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