Dynatrac Pro-Grip brake pads

WJCO said:
I recall them being red.
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Looks like the "red" are the low dust ceramics.
I ended up placing an order for the "green" through Autozone. BTW - they have 20% off promo for home shipping with a minimum purchase of $120
 
I have another brand big brake kit but I’ve had really great results with EBC heavy duty orange pads. I ran these on the stock rotors with good results
 
Thread Resurrection!

My brake pads are in need of replacement. Dynatrac has their pads on sale for $98 ea for front and rear. I see some other options on this thread. The Dynatrac pads work great but they're just so damn dusty. Anyone tried other pads that perform the same with less dust? All options and opinions are appreciated.
 
jesse3638 said:
Thread Resurrection!

My brake pads are in need of replacement. Dynatrac has their pads on sale for $98 ea for front and rear. I see some other options on this thread. The Dynatrac pads work great but they're just so damn dusty. Anyone tried other pads that perform the same with less dust? All options and opinions are appreciated.
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To be fair, the dust means they’re soft and wearing well. It’s a sign they’re doing their job well. Pads that don’t wear fast also don’t stop well. OEM is the only other pads that I like a lot.
 
wayoflife said:
To be fair, the dust means they’re soft and wearing well. It’s a sign they’re doing their job well. Pads that don’t wear fast also don’t stop well. OEM is the only other pads that I like a lot.
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Thanks for the info. I did not know that. Ironically these pads have lasted nearly twice as long as my first set of OEM rears...haha. I thought $100 was a lot for pads but once you start looking at other "performance" pads they're actually cheaper. Still more than other options but actually cheaper than Mopar OEM pads.
 
jesse3638 said:
Thread Resurrection!

My brake pads are in need of replacement. Dynatrac has their pads on sale for $98 ea for front and rear. I see some other options on this thread. The Dynatrac pads work great but they're just so damn dusty. Anyone tried other pads that perform the same with less dust? All options and opinions are appreciated.
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I've gotten stopping power, life and little dust from Wagner OEx brake pads, use them on my 2010 JKU with Dynatrac setup, Cooper STT 37x13.5x17

Also use them on my daughter's 2015 JKU
 
To turn or not to turn (rotors) that is the question.

In all the brake jobs I've done I've always had the rotors turned. It's just what I was taught to do. However is this practice really necessary if you're rotors seem to bear wearing evenly and no vibrations from a warped rotor? I'm going to be doing mine in the coming week and was looking for opinions on this practice. Obviously it'll be quicker and easier to pad slap it but if this can lead to issues down the road I'll have them turned.
 
jesse3638 said:
To turn or not to turn (rotors) that is the question.

In all the brake jobs I've done I've always had the rotors turned. It's just what I was taught to do. However is this practice really necessary if you're rotors seem to bear wearing evenly and no vibrations from a warped rotor? I'm going to be doing mine in the coming week and was looking for opinions on this practice. Obviously it'll be quicker and easier to pad slap it but if this can lead to issues down the road I'll have them turned.
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A new pad on an old rotor can cause noise or vibration. Even a rotor that looks great, you can't see the true flatness with the human eye. I've done many brake jobs where a customer request a pad slap only and I recall a few times where they came back and said the brakes were squeaking afterwards.
 
jesse3638 said:
To turn or not to turn (rotors) that is the question.

In all the brake jobs I've done I've always had the rotors turned. It's just what I was taught to do. However is this practice really necessary if you're rotors seem to bear wearing evenly and no vibrations from a warped rotor? I'm going to be doing mine in the coming week and was looking for opinions on this practice. Obviously it'll be quicker and easier to pad slap it but if this can lead to issues down the road I'll have them turned.
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I check them with the edge of a steel ruler or a dial indicator to determine if I should get them turned.

sometimes I'm surprised how out they are when they looked fine
 
WJCO said:
A new pad on an old rotor can cause noise or vibration. Even a rotor that looks great, you can't see the true flatness with the human eye. I've done many brake jobs where a customer request a pad slap only and I recall a few times where they came back and said the brakes were squeaking afterwards.
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jeeeep said:
I check them with the edge of a steel ruler or a dial indicator to determine if I should get them turned.

sometimes I'm surprised how out they are when they looked fine
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Thanks for the information. That makes sense. I'll probably get them turned.
 
Bringing this thread back to life again. Got everything replaced (pro-grip pads), cleaned/greased, and rotors turned. Was good to go for about 500-600 miles then I developed a subtle squeak with light peddle pressure (sounds like the rear, maybe both sides). It would go away with a more pressure. Now at around 1000 miles it's louder and seems to continue with any amount of pressure. The sound is similar to the pad indicator but they're brand new so I doubt that could be it, unless it's bent. There is no grinding or metal on metal sound. I haven't had time to pull the wheels and inspect everything. Just wanted to know where I should begin my search to fix this. It's driving me crazy sounding like a semi coming to a stop. Any help is much appreciated.
 
jesse3638 said:
Bringing this thread back to life again. Got everything replaced (pro-grip pads), cleaned/greased, and rotors turned. Was good to go for about 500-600 miles then I developed a subtle squeak with light peddle pressure (sounds like the rear, maybe both sides). It would go away with a more pressure. Now at around 1000 miles it's louder and seems to continue with any amount of pressure. The sound is similar to the pad indicator but they're brand new so I doubt that could be it, unless it's bent. There is no grinding or metal on metal sound. I haven't had time to pull the wheels and inspect everything. Just wanted to know where I should begin my search to fix this. It's driving me crazy sounding like a semi coming to a stop. Any help is much appreciated.
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Check your axle shafts for a bent flange
 
jesse3638 said:
Bringing this thread back to life again. Got everything replaced (pro-grip pads), cleaned/greased, and rotors turned. Was good to go for about 500-600 miles then I developed a subtle squeak with light peddle pressure (sounds like the rear, maybe both sides). It would go away with a more pressure. Now at around 1000 miles it's louder and seems to continue with any amount of pressure. The sound is similar to the pad indicator but they're brand new so I doubt that could be it, unless it's bent. There is no grinding or metal on metal sound. I haven't had time to pull the wheels and inspect everything. Just wanted to know where I should begin my search to fix this. It's driving me crazy sounding like a semi coming to a stop. Any help is much appreciated.
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Did you do a proper bed with the new brake pads?
If you confirm that it's not a bent axle shaft, take the brake pads off and see if the pads and rotors are glazed (extra shiny)
If they're glazed, they weren't properly bedded, take some sandpaper, or something like a red Scotch pad to remove the Shine off the pads and the rotors.
When you reinstall everything be sure to do a proper brake pad bedding.
 
jeeeep said:
Did you do a proper bed with the new brake pads?
If you confirm that it's not a bent axle shaft, take the brake pads off and see if the pads and rotors are glazed (extra shiny)
If they're glazed, they weren't properly bedded, take some sandpaper, or something like a red Scotch pad to remove the Shine off the pads and the rotors.
When you reinstall everything be sure to do a proper brake pad bedding.
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This may be it. I didn't bed them in like I did when I first installed the pro grips. Mostly daily driving with aggressive stops for the first couple hundred miles.
 
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