Dynatrac 60/60 for JT - Which Gear Oil?

SAF

SAF

New member
Hey, guys.

After a few gladiators these past few years, finally pulled the trigger on some dynatrac axles. 40" tires. 5.38.

Since finding the dynatrac blog post on how to fill the axles and looking up what I can on this forum, it seems non-synthetic is the preferred route for those ARB lockers.

My question is what weight should I run for these hot midwest summers but cold winters? Valvoline seems to have what I need, but not sure which weight to go with. Maybe 80/90 now and then something heavier when the temps start to drop? Or is it wise to maintain the same viscosity for the life of the axle? Thanks!
 
JimLee

JimLee

Hooked
I use 85W-140 in my Dynatrac axles (5.13's), but I live within spitting distance of Death Valley.
 
SAF

SAF

New member
Good deal. Thanks guys. What brands are you running? Seems like the 75/85W-140 stuff I can find is all synthetic.

Might run that for the rest of summer/fall, then switch to 80W-90 as needed.
 
JimLee

JimLee

Hooked
I use Torco RGO, but the stuff is as expensive as liquid gold. You can find Valvoline 85/140 mineral based, but you might have to order it. Mobil also makes a mineral based 85/140 but I've never seen it on a parts store shelf.

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SAF

SAF

New member
Then that's what I'll do! Thanks again, guys.

Edit: Man, gone are the days of website surfing for those specific parts/pieces. Amazon really does have everything. I'll have to order a warm January. Probably backordered, though.
 
SeaSharp

SeaSharp

Member
SAF said:
Hey, guys.

After a few gladiators these past few years, finally pulled the trigger on some dynatrac axles. 40" tires. 5.38.

Since finding the dynatrac blog post on how to fill the axles and looking up what I can on this forum, it seems non-synthetic is the preferred route for those ARB lockers.

My question is what weight should I run for these hot midwest summers but cold winters? Valvoline seems to have what I need, but not sure which weight to go with. Maybe 80/90 now and then something heavier when the temps start to drop? Or is it wise to maintain the same viscosity for the life of the axle? Thanks!
Click to expand...
That will be a beast!
 
SAF

SAF

New member
Sorry, fellas, but I'm going to take this thread off the rails... Steering stabilizer mounts on this axle...

I've seen some people having interference with aftermarket drag links on their dynatracs and whatever stabilizer stud/mount they use. However, these builds seem to be the ProRock 44.

Any cases of the 60 front axles for the JT running into similar issues? Those mounting brackets on the dynatracs seem similar across the board for JT/JL/JK and 44/60/80.

I'll be using synergy TR & DL. What are you guys running? Any interference? Thanks!


Edit: After watching the Wayalife videos, especially those explaining the Dynatrac axles, it seems like the 1550 knuckle is key here. From what I can tell, the ProRock 44's with issues seem to be those with the smaller knuckles. With the Jet Li Jeep, those 44's seem to have the bigger knuckles found on the 60's, and in that video there were no issues with either the Synergy products nor the stabilizer.

Seeing how tube thickness/diameter is the same on 44 & 60, I shouldn't have any problems with mounting brackets being pushed out further (in theory). Guess we shall see!
 
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Disciple Off Road

Disciple Off Road

Hooked
The location that comes on the axles should be close but also depends on your steering. synergy should work, I can see where issues may arise when doing the kits with 2” OD links, things get tight.

Are you going to run PSC? With mounting points I usually just plan on welding my own tabs so I can put things where I want, especially after cycling everything. The track bar bracket should give you enough real estate to do this (mounting/moving tabs around) IF needed.
 
JimLee

JimLee

Hooked
Those lower brackets are for a ram. You can run a stabilizer piggyback to the track bar bolt with an extended bolt like the synergy one and you won't have clearance issues besides rotating it back a bit to clear the drag link. I'm sure you can mount a stabilizer on the ram mounts but why, it's a lower point, unless you have the ram skid plate. Also if these are XD 60 axles the synergy TR/DL will have the wrong taper at the knuckles, at least the ones made for stock Jeeps will. You have one ton taper at the knuckles now.
 
SAF

SAF

New member
Disciple Off Road said:
The location that comes on the axles should be close but also depends on your steering. synergy should work, I can see where issues may arise when doing the kits with 2” OD links, things get tight.

Are you going to run PSC? With mounting points I usually just plan on welding my own tabs so I can put things where I want, especially after cycling everything. The track bar bracket should give you enough real estate to do this (mounting/moving tabs around) IF needed.
Click to expand...
I gotcha. I'm assuming you're talking about overall diameter on the drag link being 2"? Looks like the HD steer kit diameter runs 1.5".

JimLee said:
Those lower brackets are for a ram. You can run a stabilizer piggyback to the track bar bolt with an extended bolt like the synergy one and you won't have clearance issues besides rotating it back a bit to clear the drag link. I'm sure you can mount a stabilizer on the ram mounts but why, it's a lower point, unless you have the ram skid plate. Also if these are XD 60 axles the synergy TR/DL will have the wrong taper at the knuckles, at least the ones made for stock Jeeps will. You have one ton taper at the knuckles now.
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I think this is my concern/resolution right here. No PSC for now, so I may use that extended bolt for the ram mounts and use that skid plate.

I was not aware of that though. I figured the Synergy HD steering kit would be compatible with the 1 ton axle?

Edit: I did order the steering kit with these axles. From the sound of it, they come with a Yeti TB/DL. Crisis averted... for now.
Edit #2: Hopefully I'm not stirring anything up but I'm not sure if Dynatrac still uses the yeti stuff. Looks like BD or RPM make kits!
 
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JimLee

JimLee

Hooked
SAF said:
I gotcha. I'm assuming you're talking about overall diameter on the drag link being 2"? Looks like the HD steer kit diameter runs 1.5".


I think this is my concern/resolution right here. No PSC for now, so I may use that extended bolt for the ram mounts and use that skid plate.

I was not aware of that though. I figured the Synergy HD steering kit would be compatible with the 1 ton axle?

Edit: I did order the steering kit with these axles. From the sound of it, they come with a Yeti TB/DL. Crisis averted... for now.
Edit #2: Hopefully I'm not stirring anything up but I'm not sure if Dynatrac still uses the yeti stuff. Looks like BD or RPM make kits!
Click to expand...
I had the Synergy stuff on my factory axle and was told by Dynatrac that it wouldn't work because of the taper being different, so I just used the stuff they included with the steering kit. I think the drag link is probably the same taper because there was no change or drilling required at the pitman arm. My order invoice shows "Knuckle Kit, XD60-1550LT Series High Strength Lightweight Aluminum (I actually ended up with iron knuckles because of the aluminum knuckle recall), RH & LH, 0.620" Bottom-Up Drag Link Taper, 0.648" Top-Down Tie Rod Taper, Installed". I think there also may also be length issues if trying to use the regular JL/JT stuff, those knuckles are huge compared to the factory stuff and I'm betting that makes the needed length different. Like I said, I took Dynatrac at their word and didn't even try my Synergy stuff from my factory axle, it may be worth a try if you already have the stuff laying around.

The drag link I received is 100% a Yeti drag link, it says it all over it, the tie rod is not branded but I don't think its Yeti. All the aftermarket stuff I have looked at so far that is made for a Dynatrac XD60 axle on a Jeep JL/JT requires flipping the tie rod from the top to the bottom of the knuckle, which I don't really want to do, it's probably because of the very limited space in the knuckle having a bottom mount drag ling and top mount tie rod shoehorned in there. I guess you could flip the drag link to the top, which would require some drilling and a sleeve, but then you might start running into other clearance issues and it might mess with your steering geometry. With the drag link mounted bottom up it is perfectly in line with the track bar which is good. I am using a Synergy track bar (Dynatrac doesn't provide one), nothing really changes there with the exception that the Dyantracs come with a raised track bar mount so I had to shorten mine a small amount, the Synergy track bar has a nice bend in it that ensures the track bar clears the diff cover without having to do an upper track bar mount relocation, at least on my setup as my up travel is limited by the collapsed length of my coilovers.

All of this is assuming you are in fact getting the XD60's with the 1550 knuckles, you never really make that clear above.
 
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SAF

SAF

New member
JimLee said:
I had the Synergy stuff on my factory axle and was told by Dynatrac that it wouldn't work because of the taper being different, so I just used the stuff they included with the steering kit. I think the drag link is probably the same taper because there was no change or drilling required at the pitman arm. My order invoice shows "Knuckle Kit, XD60-1550LT Series High Strength Lightweight Aluminum (I actually ended up with iron knuckles because of the aluminum knuckle recall), RH & LH, 0.620" Bottom-Up Drag Link Taper, 0.648" Top-Down Tie Rod Taper, Installed". I think there also may also be length issues if trying to use the regular JL/JT stuff, those knuckles are huge compared to the factory stuff and I'm betting that makes the needed length different. Like I said, I took Dynatrac at their word and didn't even try my Synergy stuff from my factory axle, it may be worth a try if you already have the stuff laying around.

The drag link I received is 100% a Yeti drag link, it says it all over it, the tie rod is not branded but I don't think its Yeti. All the aftermarket stuff I have looked at so far that is made for a Dynatrac XD60 axle on a Jeep JL/JT requires flipping the tie rod from the top to the bottom of the knuckle, which I don't really want to do, it's probably because of the very limited space in the knuckle having a bottom mount drag ling and top mount tie rod shoehorned in there. I guess you could flip the drag link to the top, which would require some drilling and a sleeve, but then you might start running into other clearance issues and it might mess with your steering geometry. With the drag link mounted bottom up it is perfectly in line with the track bar which is good. I am using a Synergy track bar (Dynatrac doesn't provide one), nothing really changes there with the exception that the Dyantracs come with a raised track bar mount so I had to shorten mine a small amount, the Synergy track bar has a nice bend in it that ensures the track bar clears the diff cover without having to do an upper track bar mount relocation, at least on my setup as my up travel is limited by the collapsed length of my coilovers.

All of this is assuming you are in fact getting the XD60's with the 1550 knuckles, you never really make that clear above.
Click to expand...

Perks of having a mostly stock JL. I had a feeling that whatever issues I may run into, I can always put parts on my other jeep.

But good deal. Axles are at a local shop right now, but I'm going to swing by there tomorrow and make sure I have everything I need. 1550 knuckles and steering kit.

I've noticed that, too. Not real wild about having to drill into those brand new knuckles. Thanks for the info though. I remember doing a coilover kit for my first gladiator. Lots of yes, but no, but yes, but also no stuff. Where there's a will, there's a way (and usually a sizable receipt).
 
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