Drive shafts?

A

ATC_LV

New member
I have a 4" EVO Enforcer and 37's on the way. I know I need to get a front drive shaft for sure. Do I need a new rear one? What brand is everyone else using.

2013 JKUR Automatic.
 
You shouldn't. I've been running a stock rear shaft on my '12 for over 20K miles.

Make sure you move your evap skid over a couple of inches before flexing the keep out. Otherwise you will tear your DS boot. Ask me how I know. :(
 
Being that you have an Unlimited, you will not need to get a new rear shaft. It would be nice to have as a 1350 is stronger but, it's not necessary until your factory one fails. Regarding brands, I have run a lot of different brands and have even had custom ones made in the past but, prefer to use JE Reel now and mainly because they're made well and use made in the USA Neapco u-joints standard. A lot of the other popular brands out there use cheap Chinese u-joints standard unless you request to upgrade to something better.
 
ATC_LV said:
What's involved with moving the evap skid? I haven't looked at it yet.
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You just need to drill new mounting holes in the skid plate and shift it over. Super easy to do and you don't even need to take the skid off.
 
You can use a skid and/or relocate it. Lots of companies make parts to do either. I have heard of some skids needing to be trimmed if you decide to use the evo spec dynomax exhaust. Rock hard makes a easy relocation kit. I've also seen DIY threads.

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TheDuff said:
You can use a skid and/or relocate it. Lots of companies make parts to do either. I have heard of some skids needing to be trimmed if you decide to use the evo spec dynomax exhaust. Rock hard makes a easy relocation kit. I've also seen DIY threads.

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I think the discussion above was in regards to shifting over the factory 2012-up skid over so that the drive shaft doesn't hit it when flexing.
 
wayoflife said:
You just need to drill new mounting holes in the skid plate and shift it over. Super easy to do and you don't even need to take the skid off.
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Yeah...10 minute job...super easy. I think I did it over lunch one day. You use one of the existing holes in the front and drill two new holes (one in front and one in back) to move it over about 2". :thumb:
 
MTG said:
You shouldn't. I've been running a stock rear shaft on my '12 for over 20K miles.

Make sure you move your evap skid over a couple of inches before flexing the keep out. Otherwise you will tear your DS boot. Ask me how I know. :(
Click to expand...

If its already torn a bit should I still move the skid over?
Thanks
Russ


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ttfhell said:
If its already torn a bit should I still move the skid over?
Thanks
Russ


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Click to expand...

Yeah, I would and, I would look into saving up for a replacement shaft in the future. With the boot compromised, it's just a matter of time before things start to seize up and do more damage.
 
ttfhell said:
If its already torn a bit should I still move the skid over?
Thanks
Russ


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Click to expand...

I would. I tore a huge chunk out of mine. Then replaced it with another factory rear shaft (Rubicat's actually) and kept the one with a torn boot as a trail spare. :thumb:
 
Glad I read this!!! Getting my '12 back today and didn't even know this. Here is on my list to do on my '12 JKUR. Sorry to hijack but anything else missing?

Transmission Skid
Oil Pan Skid
Front Drive Shaft Replacement
Front/Rear Diff Cover
Move Evap Skid
Other items?

Thanks!
 
jkjurny said:
Glad I read this!!! Getting my '12 back today and didn't even know this. Here is on my list to do on my '12 JKUR. Sorry to hijack but anything else missing?

Transmission Skid
Oil Pan Skid
Front Drive Shaft Replacement
Front/Rear Diff Cover
Move Evap Skid
Other items?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I suppose on what all you're having done to your Jeep but, that sounds like a good start.
 
jkjurny said:
Glad I read this!!! Getting my '12 back today and didn't even know this. Here is on my list to do on my '12 JKUR. Sorry to hijack but anything else missing?

Transmission Skid
Oil Pan Skid
Front Drive Shaft Replacement
Front/Rear Diff Cover
Move Evap Skid
Other items?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Unless you have a lift, you shouldn't need to move your evap skid...and even then some lifts do not seem to have the issue. I think it depends on the amount of flex and the location of your rear axle after the lift.

If you are running bigger tires you need to add C gussets to your list.

I can't tell from your profile. :idontknow:

"Other items?" LOL! where to begin? :cheesy:


Edit: Why am I always one second behind Eddie? LOL!
 
wayoflife said:
Yeah, I would and, I would look into saving up for a replacement shaft in the future. With the boot compromised, it's just a matter of time before things start to seize up and do more damage.
Click to expand...

Is it worth replacing the stock boot or just a waste of time?
Thx again.


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ttfhell said:
Is it worth replacing the stock boot or just a waste of time?
Thx again.


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Click to expand...

Unless things have changed, you can't replace just the boot. The dealer will want ~$800 for a factory shaft.
 
MTG said:
Unless things have changed, you can't replace just the boot. The dealer will want ~$800 for a factory shaft.
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Yup, what he said, the boot is non-serviceable. It'll last a while but, you will need to replace the shaft sooner than later.
 
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