Oh yeah, the factory rear swaybar won't limit your travel - trust me. As you can see in the pic below, this is our JK at a full flex and limiting straps are taught.
Currie antirock sway bar ?
- Thread starter BrandonDetrick
- Start date
Oh yeah, the factory rear swaybar won't limit your travel - trust me. As you can see in the pic below, this is our JK at a full flex and limiting straps are taught.
BrandonDetrick
New member
Oh wow ! Well now I know thanks for the info. In This photo are those long arms ?? I can't tell
No, this shot was taken back when we were still running Full Traction short arms. We are now running EVO MFG long arms.
BrandonDetrick
New member
How are those with a coilovers set up ? Cuz I want coilovers , just not enough coin for evos long arms
They're great. We ran like that for over a year. ChrisB is running the bolt-on setup with minimal adjustable short arms now and I'm sure he'll tell you the same.
nyglt56
New member
I wish I had ediscos lol. Wouldn't trade that for anything.
I personally like a stiff feel on corners, a stock sway bar on a tj minimizes my body roll.
My personal opinion, it's just an expensive sway bar.
People always say its "balanced" flex or what not hanging on 3 wheels, "provides more traction"
My idea of balanced flex is all four on the ground and a level vehicle, ie; your suspension is moving and the body isn't. The antirock does the opposite. It pushes down on the stuffed side to counter balance the flexed side. And thus pushes all 4 to the ground, and way off camber as a result. All for "traction"
If you want traction, buy a locker, not a swaybar. But you have a rubi jk. So no need there. I just don't understand why so many tjs/jks run these I, hated it.
I personally like a stiff feel on corners, a stock sway bar on a tj minimizes my body roll.
My personal opinion, it's just an expensive sway bar.
People always say its "balanced" flex or what not hanging on 3 wheels, "provides more traction"
My idea of balanced flex is all four on the ground and a level vehicle, ie; your suspension is moving and the body isn't. The antirock does the opposite. It pushes down on the stuffed side to counter balance the flexed side. And thus pushes all 4 to the ground, and way off camber as a result. All for "traction"
If you want traction, buy a locker, not a swaybar. But you have a rubi jk. So no need there. I just don't understand why so many tjs/jks run these I, hated it.
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BrandonDetrick
New member
Is the ride as comfortable as long arms tho ?
I run a rear antirock and in a two door I get a lot of rear sway on the freeway. Also in a two door with a rear antirock it seems like it takes up more room when flexed. What I mean is when one or other rear tire is stuffed it forces the rear trackbar to push rear end closer to sway bar and closer to inner rear tire sidewall.
I currently am running 4.5 backspacing plus 1.5 wheel spacers to avoid my rear antirock to push into my rear tire sidewalls when flexing.
Plus I redrilled my lower links up higher and using the longest adjustable link I can find in the rear.
I currently am running 4.5 backspacing plus 1.5 wheel spacers to avoid my rear antirock to push into my rear tire sidewalls when flexing.
Plus I redrilled my lower links up higher and using the longest adjustable link I can find in the rear.
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BrandonDetrick
New member
Are these the "ultimate" control arms ???
Ride comfort is subjective. When we were running this setup, I thought it was the best. Sure, with long arms it's better but, I wouldn't have known that had we not upgraded to them.
One of the reasons why we aren't running one in the rear and we have a 4-door.
Yes, these are the Ultimate control arms but, if you plan on running coil overs, I would recommend Currie Arms instead as they have Johnny Joints on both end of the links. Bonded rubber bushings are nice, quite and require no maintenance but, they cannot handle the amount of flex EVO coil overs provide and they will blow.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
It rides awesome, it's smoother than a long arm with normal coils and shocks. Superior in the desert as well.
I suggest going coilovers first, then long arms. You get more for your money, flex and ride quality.
BrandonDetrick
New member
So if you were in my shoes, would you wait and dish out the extra 1000bucks or so for evo long arms or get currie short arms and call it good ? .. With Intensions of running c/o
What he said. :yup:
I would get the bolt on coil overs and just the arms I needed to dial in my ride. When you can afford it, you can upgrade at that time if you feel the need for it but, I doubt you will.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
BrandonDetrick
New member
Okay guys ! Thank you a bunch I been kickin this around for awhile.
BrandonDetrick
New member
Okay wait ... So front lowers with the other arms still being the factory arms ??
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Yes, on the 4 door you can get away with all factory arms except for the front lowers. You need them to adjust caster.
BrandonDetrick
New member
What about a 2 door cuz That's what I have ?
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
You will need rear uppers as well. The pinion angle is too steep on the 2 door.
BrandonDetrick
New member
Okay thank you.