Best lift for your money

i would still run one just in case. better to spend the little extra money now than to have a break on the trail and not be able to get home. :twocents:

Understood and agreed. I wasn't saying I wasn't going to run one. I absolutely am. was just sayin that it's not imperative to install both at the same time in case I don't have the funds at that time. I should but anything could happen.
 
Yeah, but did this someone you talked to explain HOW that is done without one? I believe I had and it's called a transfer case drop. There is no way around it, if you are lifted 3"-4", you will have significant driveline vibrations without it or an SYE. Sure, you can do a combination of a motor mount lift and a smaller drop but still, it is needed and really, it's not even a great solution. How do I know, I've done it and tried everyway you can to make it work before finally installing an SYE. Again, why would you spend all that money getting your Jeep higher off the ground just to lower it's belly back down closer to the ground again. But hey, that's just me and you're free to take advice from whoever you want :yup:

The argument he made was that the lowest point would be the differentials so lowering the belly back down wouldn't be that much of an issue. Especially because the differentials were just raised by installing larger tires.

I'm going to do both at the same time I was just discussing other results that I had found.
 
You can run 35's and no lift with flat fenders with no problem if you really wanted to.

CAREFUL... We are talking about a TJ here. Not a JK. Not just any flat fender will accommodate this. It will need to be something like the MetalCloak Overlines. Even then you may need to trim and/or tweak bump-stops.
 
Damn TJ. I'll just lift it first and then go larger tires as I originally planned.

It depends on what your mission is. There is a lot to be said for a LCG build. (especially on a 2-door of any breed) There are two guys in my club that went with the overline fender / trim route and are running 35s on an otherwise stock TJ suspension. They do really well. Keep in mind that a lot of the guys on here are out west and the terrain is different. Out here in the east is is pretty common to get way off-camber on a greasy hill. The LCG keeps the butt-pucker to a minimum when your sliding sideways down a hill. :eek:
 
It depends on what your mission is. There is a lot to be said for a LCG build. (especially on a 2-door of any breed) There are two guys in my club that went with the overline fender / trim route and are running 35s on an otherwise stock TJ suspension. They do really well. Keep in mind that a lot of the guys on here are out west and the terrain is different. Out here in the east is is pretty common to get way off-camber on a greasy hill. The LCG keeps the butt-pucker to a minimum when your sliding sideways down a hill. :eek:

I like the idea of LCG. Especially because I just added spidertrax 1.5's and my rig handles better. If I can leave it at 2 inches and run 35's then I'll do it. I'd still want to replace the lift that the PO installed.
 
So your son runs 35's and a 2" lift with no problem?

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1380159216.198430.jpg
Not yet:) RC 2.5 with metalcloak arched in the front and trimmed rear so far so good!

One inch body eventually for tummy tucker.

And dad little info from rokmen

Give your Jeep a Tummy Tuck!
Replace the flimsy, ground clearance robbing, rock grabbing, stock belly pan . Gain the clearance and armor this sport demands. With the ROKMEN high clearance Heavy Duty Belly Pan you can tackle the trails with confidence.

You'll gain 2.5" of ground clearance over stock , equivalent to increasing your tire size by 5+ inches. The reinforced design and flat underside gives your rig a smooth surface to slide over the big obstacles.
 
No worries. I've decided to go with a low center of gravity build. I'll move up to a 2.5 with 35" nitto mud grapplers and metalcloak 6" fenders. I like the bilstien shocks and am playing around with the idea of gathering my components for my lift separately.
 
Yeah, but did this someone you talked to explain HOW that is done without one? I believe I had and it's called a transfer case drop. There is no way around it, if you are lifted 3"-4", you will have significant driveline vibrations without it or an SYE. Sure, you can do a combination of a motor mount lift and a smaller drop but still, it is needed and really, it's not even a great solution. How do I know, I've done it and tried everyway you can to make it work before finally installing an SYE. Again, why would you spend all that money getting your Jeep higher off the ground just to lower it's belly back down closer to the ground again. But hey, that's just me and you're free to take advice from whoever you want :yup:

I know this an older thread, but it's exactly what I need to ask so I hope you see it and give me some advice. I have a 2005 TJ Rubicon - new to me. It has a zone 4" lift and a 1" body lift. The transfer case is dropped 1" with spacers. This has to go!! I agree that it is retarded to lift the jeep then give away clearance with the pan spacers! Plus it looks like crap! My question - the Rubicon transfer case (NP241 I think) does not have a slip yoke... so a SYE kit is not what I need... what do I need to do to get my belly lifted and keep the shafts working correctly at highway speed and full suspension drop? Eventually I am going to sway in Dana 60 pro-rock axles front and rear with high angle pinions but that is WAY DOWN THE ROAD... what do I do know with my stock Dana 44's?

I appreciate any and all input, I have a lot to learn..

Tango Yankee,
 
You could go with a double cardan style shaft. like the front drive shaft. I just did a quick search and there is quite a few different brands available.
 
You could go with a double cardan style shaft. like the front drive shaft. I just did a quick search and there is quite a few different brands available.

Would that enable the removal of the drop spacers? If I swap the front DS, should I swap out the rear as well? Tom Wood is a manufacturer that I am familiar with... any opinions?
 
The front shaft should already be the double cardan type. Its the back shaft being the reason for the spacers. If you added a double caradan shaft for the rear you should be able to eliminate the spacers.
 
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