Ball Joints job and additonal WHAT?

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Last year or so I got some Synergy Ball Joints from a neighbor and thinking of putting them on this Spring.

As long as I'm pulling off the wheels and brake assemblies, I wonder what else would be hella convenient to do while it's already tore down that far?

Grease the wheel bearings \ axles?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thx
 
Last year or so I got some Synergy Ball Joints from a neighbor and thinking of putting them on this Spring.

As long as I'm pulling off the wheels and brake assemblies, I wonder what else would be hella convenient to do while it's already tore down that far?

Grease the wheel bearings \ axles?

Thoughts or suggestions?

Thx

Weld on some C gussets if you're going that way.

Also, before pulling the tires off, check for wheel/unit bearing play. If they have play, replace that at the same time. Can't grease the bearings, sealed unit on these.
 
Upgrade axle shafts. Haha.
I helped a buddy do synergy ball joints on his 2011 jku the other day. Talk about a PITA. Now I know why shops charge so much. But it was a learning experience and I would do it again because I am a cheap ass.
 
The brakes on the front are too new too new to replace, I'm running 35's all around.

I already own these - Synergy Manufacturing 8009-12 Jeep JK/WJ Dana 30/44 HD Ball Joint Set

I see this on Amazon = Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

Are there some other brand and prices that are better in some way?

And for U-Joints: MOPAR vs AC DELCO vs SPICER . . . same question, is the mopar price worth the extra cost, is warranty a consideration?

What about the Synergy Manufacturing 8012-02 Jeep JK Front Dana 30/44 Inner C Gusset ? Keep in mind that I'm a camper, not a crawler.

Thx for the info!
 
My Wrangler has 89k, I doubt these things have been done before. I hear odd knocking\knuckling that I can also feel in certain turns etc, a sense that something is wrong but I can't identify and that mechanics haven't determined.

I don't weld, and the guy I want to pay to help me get this done and done doesn't either.

Renting the additional tools from the parts store is cool, but idk about trying to get welding done so that might not happen.

I see a lot of logging roads, it just seems like the ball joints, bearings and u-joints would be the things to do.

Is there a wiggle wiggle wiggle test I should rely on for the bearing \ u-joint replacement assessment?
 
No wiggle test for the u joints it's just a cheap fix if you are already replacing the ball joints. The wheel bearing has a wiggle test but I doubt it will show anything if you have play in you ball joints
 
So I think it boils down to this:

There is NO mobile welding where I live period. My choices are 1) not do gussets 2) take my rig to 4wheelparts or to Northridge 4x4 and pay them to do all the work, in the $750 - $950 range or 3) get some inexpensive welding stuff from HF and try to do it myself 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it.

I can pay the high shop labor costs and sit in a lobby all day while they do it, or allow myself 2 days in my own driveway.
 
OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got.

These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage.

The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint.

The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines.

In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too.

What say ye?
 
OK so maybe some success! I called a welding supply place who in turn made some calls and I found 2 guys that can do it, without charging $600+ like one quote I got.

These would be in the $200 - $300 range. One guy only has a 110v welder, but ARTEC says they have many success stories from guy with 110 in their garage.

The plan would be for me to pull off everything down to the C and shine it up, clean the gussets. The welder would come over and do the job, I would then clean that up and paint.

The next day I would put everything back together again with new parts = ball joints, bearing assembly, u-joints and maybe BB kit with new lines.

In order to facilitate the welder, I would have to do the tear down myself the night before. If I get that far, then I think I'll be able to do the reassembly myself too.

What say ye?

I'd say go for it. 110 should be fine. The gusset itself is what adds the strength so as long as the weld is good at each corner/end, it should serve the purpose just fine if the weld gets any penetration.
 
Wait wait. You're going to the welders shop, tearing down the night before, then rebuilding your front hubs from the Cs while there? This isn't a quick or easy job & I'm guessing you've not done this before. This sounds like a bad idea.
 
Wait wait. You're going to the welders shop, tearing down the night before, then rebuilding your front hubs from the Cs while there? This isn't a quick or easy job & I'm guessing you've not done this before. This sounds like a bad idea.

The welder is going to his house
 
Thanks for all the opinions - I've decided to NOT do the gussets due to cost, labor and coordinated efforts. I'm also not going to a BB kit.

This is the PARTS LIST that I'm considering:

1) Synergy Ball Joints - I already own these

2) 5-760X U-Joints bills as heavy duty, fits Dana 30

3) Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly = 1yr warranty @ $89.21 ea

or Omix-Ada Replacement Front Hub & Bearing Assembly = 5yr warranty @ $124.99 ea

4) 80w - 90w Synthetic Gear Oil fr & rr

Also one Ball Joint kit rental for ball and u-joints, 36mm socket, grease and grease gun
 
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