Axle upgrade

Raywins

New member
I just got a quote from my local off-road shop . I have a 21 jeep Wrangler 2 door sport . I wanted to replace front axle with Dana ultimate 44 with 4:88 and a e locker . Then in the rear Rubicon Dana 44 with 4:88and cromolly axles . I was quoted 14K for the job to be done. This really seems a little high any suggestions?
 
So fully built front Ultimate 44 (still have to swap in outers/install), and installing a rear Rubicon 44 (take-off I assume) and re-gearing with adding shafts? Just trying to clarify exactly what they are doing.
 

Raywins

New member
So fully built front Ultimate 44 (still have to swap in outers/install), and installing a rear Rubicon 44 (take-off I assume) and re-gearing with adding shafts? Just trying to clarify exactly what they are doing.
Yes, I am told they have to upgrade the brakes because the wrangler sport brakes will work with the new axles .
 

JT@623

Hooked
Yes, I am told they have to upgrade the brakes because the wrangler sport brakes will work with the new axles .
I paid just over $15K for Dynatrac hard core 60’s with E-Lockers complete with brakes granted that was for a JK but $14K seems high ?
 

Raywins

New member
I was told that they understood the price was high and that they could do 60s for about the 15-16 K if I wanted to go that way . I'm just a little down. Pride hurt a little . Really wanted to wheel 37s. But even if I stay 35s I just can't trust that 30 . Maybe I'll just put a lunchbox locker in the rear and call it good
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I was told that they understood the price was high and that they could do 60s for about the 15-16 K if I wanted to go that way . I'm just a little down. Pride hurt a little . Really wanted to wheel 37s. But even if I stay 35s I just can't trust that 30 . Maybe I'll just put a lunchbox locker in the rear and call it good
Why can’t you trust the 30? Have you ever broken anything on it?

If you only want 37’s I would do it now or add a locker and shafts to the rear and then wheel it. When/if you actually break something you can upgrade the front.
 

Raywins

New member
So if I keep the 30 and just leave it as a open diff. And do a gear swap and ad a locker to rear. Will it be a dependable rig. I have been wheeling a long time. Mostly chevy trucks . So even being a feather foot I still broke them
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
So if I keep the 30 and just leave it as a open diff. And do a gear swap and ad a locker to rear. Will it be a dependable rig. I have been wheeling a long time. Mostly chevy trucks . So even being a feather foot I still broke them
Depends how much you wheel. I would personally not want to hear it because I know I would upgrade in the future but it would be plenty good enough for most people. Maybe do 35’s and leave the rest as is for the time being and see how it does. Bet you would be surprised.
 
Depends how much you wheel. I would personally not want to hear it because I know I would upgrade in the future but it would be plenty good enough for most people. Maybe do 35’s and leave the rest as is for the time being and see how it does. Bet you would be surprised.
I have to agree with Adam. Now knowing your motive, the D30 isn't just going to blow up when it sees a rock. I've been wheeling mine for several years now (135K miles) on 37's on stock axles but also wheel it knowing what I have. Take your time and pick good lines. Wheel it, learn and save up for a complete set of axles to do it right the first time.
 

benatc1

Hooked
Just a thought… Buy complete 44‘s and swap them in yourself. Put 35’s on the stock wheels for now and have some fun for a while.

Then when you can afford it, slowly step up the suspension, steering, wheels, 37’s etc.
Was thinking the same thing, I’ve seen rubicon take offs around me from 4-6k depending how how much work was into them. In most cases brakes too, hell of a lot cheaper than 14k
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I think you've gotten good advice on this thread already and just wanted to say that I agree with it. Also, I wanted to add that sticking with 4.88 in your 30 is a good idea as that's the highest ratio I would recommend in one. Anything higher and you'll be looking at a potential break there.
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
I will add to everything that has been said. Most of those the 30 will break comments come from West Coast guys playing in rocks. 35's on your D30, open with a locker on your rear 44 will take you a long way on the east coast playing in mud around where you are at in the Carolinas and all the surrounding parks like Windrock, Uwharrie, etc
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I will add to everything that has been said. Most of those the 30 will break comments come from West Coast guys playing in rocks. 35's on your D30, open with a locker on your rear 44 will take you a long way on the east coast playing in mud around where you are at in the Carolinas and all the surrounding parks like Windrock, Uwharrie, etc
Correction, most of those comments come from guys who just read about it on the internet.
 

WJCO

Meme King
No, just all the negative reports have me nervous I guess . All the negative reports make it sound like there made of glass and any little thing will break them
Also just some food for thought. Are the 'negative reports' for a JK or JL axle? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression the JL axle housings are re-designed and stronger than the JK ones.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Also just some food for thought. Are the 'negative reports' for a JK or JL axle? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression the JL axle housings are re-designed and stronger than the JK ones.
You are correct. With the exception of the aluminum knuckles, the JL and JT axles are significantly better than the old JK.
 
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