Are Anti rock,(or any aftermarket front sway bar) wider?

Yes sir, the photo showing the closeness of the pitman arm to TB is full lock on the stops to passenger side. You really can’t put the pitman arm on clocked wrong, since it at 45 degree intervals

I think what @Disciple Off Road is saying is that even though the splines on the sector shaft are keyed at 45 degree intervals, you still need to align the red witness marks on the box and on the sector shaft after the pitman arm is installed and before you attach your steering column.

In other words, there is still an opportunity for error when you reattach the steering shaft to the gear box. If the red lines aren’t lined up, your pitman arm will be clocked incorrectly relative to your centered steering wheel.

IMG_2207.jpeg
 
Disciple said this clearly a few times, but I just didn’t see that you heard him…
The red line is lined up. You could not go lock to lock if it was not. I have driven it, my steering wheel is, perfectly strait( I know that seems amazing) thought it would be of at least a little.
 
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The red line is lined up. You could not go lock to lock if it was not. I have driven it, my steering wheel is, perfectly strait( I know that seems amazing) thought it would be of at least a little.

Got it. Just making sure.

Yea sway bar does seem pitched low at ride height. My pitman arm would not make contact, even if it could turn that far because the sway bar is pitched up and away from it.
Longer links might be in order.

Like others, I have adjusted my steering stops slightly to avoid clashes with any of my steering components.
 
Got it. Just making sure.

Yea sway bar does seem pitched low at ride height. My pitman arm would not make contact, even if it could turn that far because the sway bar is pitched up and away from it.
Longer links might be in order.

Like others, I have adjusted my steering stops slightly to avoid clashes with any of my steering components.
Ya, I don’t really get why my steering can go so far, thought I did a good job when my tied down steering wheel all lines up on the square input shaft on re-assembly. I mean, I took the time to mark the pitman arm and center of output shaft in places I could see after torquing, due to it all spins to one side. After torquing, I lined it all back up and damn, the steering shaft went right on. And after going up and down the street, it’s damn close to centered. If I remember right, I’m about 3.5 turns lock to lock. And hit the knuckle limiter bolts. The pitman arm will push the sway bar up on drivers side, so it slides underneath at ride height. The issue I don’t like, is with the drivers limiter bolt near end of threads, still allowed touching the sway bar. I still have the OEM limiter bolts as the locking nut is tach welded to it. After watching many anti rock install videos and jk pics, I’m pretty sure the bend away from the frame happens closer to the torsion bar. So it’s further out down by the pitman arm.
‘the question still begs to be answered. Why can my PSC box let my pitman arm extend outside the frame? I would like to know if my old box and baby pitman arm came out that far. But after getting the big bore installed(by myself) I’m not re—installing it to see. I could shorten my drag link and see how that changes things, in theory, I would hit the limiter bolt sooner on drivers side.
 
Ya, I don’t really get why my steering can go so far, thought I did a good job when my tied down steering wheel all lines up on the square input shaft on re-assembly. I mean, I took the time to mark the pitman arm and center of output shaft in places I could see after torquing, due to it all spins to one side. After torquing, I lined it all back up and damn, the steering shaft went right on. And after going up and down the street, it’s damn close to centered. If I remember right, I’m about 3.5 turns lock to lock. And hit the knuckle limiter bolts. The pitman arm will push the sway bar up on drivers side, so it slides underneath at ride height. The issue I don’t like, is with the drivers limiter bolt near end of threads, still allowed touching the sway bar. I still have the OEM limiter bolts as the locking nut is tach welded to it. After watching many anti rock install videos and jk pics, I’m pretty sure the bend away from the frame happens closer to the torsion bar. So it’s further out down by the pitman arm.
‘the question still begs to be answered. Why can my PSC box let my pitman arm extend outside the frame? I would like to know if my old box and baby pitman arm came out that far. But after getting the big bore installed(by myself) I’m not re—installing it to see. I could shorten my drag link and see how that changes things, in theory, I would hit the limiter bolt sooner on drivers side.
I'd contact PSC to make sure you received the right kit.
 
Here are some fun facts. Measuring from the inside of the frame(this is the flat surface the gearbox bolts too) out to the sway bar is 3.25”. I put the oem box on the bench, pitman arm is still on it. Turn the input shaft so box is locked all the way left. Measure from the mounting face to how far the pitman arm sticks out past that face. 4.25”. So for me, it’s just the extreme size of the PSC PITMAN arm. I’m suprized others have not ran into this. So the oem box could have gone quite a bit further than the oem stops are set. I assume that Jeep keeps the half shafts way safe from binding.
 
I’m sure different people have slightly different ways of making this work, but here is how I've got it set:


This is where I have my stops set. Factory bolts. There is still another half inch of shank left threaded in.
IMG_2249.jpeg


This is where my PSC pitman arm stops. As you can see, even when my sway bar rotates down, it will just clear the pitman arm. For what it’s worth, my drag link measures 40.5” center to center of rod ends. (Edit: i do have factory knuckles…looks like you may have the Reid’s. Don’t know if the hole spacing is different than stock, drag link length may not be relevant to you)
IMG_2248.jpeg
 
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I’m sure different people have slightly different ways of making this work, but here is how I've got it set:


This is where I have my stops set. Factory bolts. There is still another half inch of shank left threaded in.
View attachment 402887


This is where my PSC pitman arm stops. As you can see, even when my sway bar rotates down, it will just clear the pitman arm. For what it’s worth, my drag link measures 40.5” center to center of rod ends. (Edit: i do have factory knuckles…looks like you may have the Reid’s. Don’t know if the hole spacing is different than stock, drag link length may not be relevant to you)
View attachment 402886
Thank you, thank you. Looks the same as mine. I just need adjustment
 
Going back to the sway bar links again for just a moment, if you install ones that are the correct length, as in taller like they should be, would the pitman arm still make contact with the sway bar arm at ride height? Look at Cousin Clyde's pic above ^^^
 

Going back to the sway bar links again for just a moment, if you install ones that are the correct length, as in taller like they should be, would the pitman arm still make contact with the sway bar arm at ride height? Look at Cousin Clyde's pic above ^^^
Sure, it will be above it, however, if your axle drops when in left lock, you are back to touching. Only way to stop contatact is limit steering left.
 
I made no change to the steering stop adjuster on the knuckles. (Note: I also added the synergy TB brace, and had to trim a bit off for the sway bar to clear). My sway bar is centered as is the axle. I also moved the TB to the lower hole in the pro rock, even though I don’t like it there due to it doesn’t match the drag link angle there. TB clearance is ok in that position, as long as I don’t full lock right. The pics shown of the TB close is full right at ride height. I have 4” of up travel, so it will hit steering box in that scenario.
Thanks for your input.
I don’t think the rock jock TB, really bought me any more clearance at all
 

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Sure, it will be above it, however, if your axle drops when in left lock, you are back to touching. Only way to stop contatact is limit steering left.
Yeah yeah, I get it but really, how often is that and would it really be that big of a deal? But hey, that's just me.
 
Here are some fun facts. Measuring from the inside of the frame(this is the flat surface the gearbox bolts too) out to the sway bar is 3.25”. I put the oem box on the bench, pitman arm is still on it. Turn the input shaft so box is locked all the way left. Measure from the mounting face to how far the pitman arm sticks out past that face. 4.25”. So for me, it’s just the extreme size of the PSC PITMAN arm. I’m suprized others have not ran into this. So the oem box could have gone quite a bit further than the oem stops are set. I assume that Jeep keeps the half shafts way safe from binding.
are you saying the psc pitman arm is longer than the OEM?
 
There is way too many posts in this thread to read at this point but I keep seeing it pop up at the top. Have you actually driven this or wheeled it yet? Or is everything speculation?
 
There is way too many posts in this thread to read at this point but I keep seeing it pop up at the top. Have you actually driven this or wheeled it yet? Or is everything speculation?
Drove it today, steering is awesome. Haven’t wheeled yet. But I know I have 4” up travel, so it’s not to hard to have the track bar disconnected at the axle, push it up 4” and steer back and forth and see interference.
Sorry this post’keeps popping up to the top” bothers you. For those of you that had some good input, thank you. I’ll stop posting now because apparently, this forum isn’t for knowledge asking and sharing.
 
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