Anyone ever run a 300/300 spring combo on front of JK?

[Hammmerhead]

Running a 250 upper and 300 lower now on the front. I have to preload them a lot, like over 3.5" to get it level. The rear spring rates are very light , backed all the way off and only have above 2 to 3 inches of the shaft showing. Im just tired of this heavy rake look but concerned about the ride with a 300/300 combo on the front. I guess it wont make a lot of difference sine I have so much preload already?

 

[wayoflife]

If you're okay with the potential of making a mistake, I would definitely give it a try. That or run a taller coil on the bottom. This is common with DTD setups - 12 on top and 14 on the bottom. I would also look into buying a set of Eibach coils from Summit or the like as they are cheaper and are typically available. Only downside to them is that they're silver and not blue if that matters.

 

[CalSgt]

FYI Polyperformance has a spring trade program where you can test different springs and trade them in so long as the paint still looks new. Full disclosure I've never done the trade in process so there may be a little more to it.

 

[Hammmerhead]

If you're okay with the potential of making a mistake, I would definitely give it a try. That or run a taller coil on the bottom. This is common with DTD setups - 12 on top and 14 on the bottom. I would also look into buying a set of Eibach coils from Summit or the like as they are cheaper and are typically available. Only downside to them is that they're silver and not blue if that matters.

thanks for reply. I didnt mention that I have the full Evo long arms, but its the bolt on kit in the front, not the DTD.

 

[wayoflife]

FYI Polyperformance has a spring trade program where you can test different springs and trade them in so long as the paint still looks new. Full disclosure I've never done the trade in process so there may be a little more to it.

That's pretty cool but from experience, I doubt I could keep the paint on the coils from getting a bit beat up, especially during testing.

 

[wayoflife]

thanks for reply. I didnt mention that I have the full Evo long arms, but its the bolt on kit in the front, not the DTD.

Yeah, I figured as much but what I said still applies. It's been a while since I ran bolt on coilovers on a JK but if I recall, both coils are the same length. All I'm saying is that, as an option, you could run a longer one below and what you have now on top.

 

[CalSgt]

That's pretty cool but from experience, I doubt I could keep the paint on the coils from getting a bit beat up, especially during testing.

You're probably right... I'm sure I couldnt get them installed without some scratches. IIRC the poly website shows people completely wrapping the spring coils in masking tape.

 

[wayoflife]

You're probably right... I'm sure I couldnt get them installed without some scratches. IIRC the poly website shows people completely wrapping the spring coils in masking tape.

Now that's funny but ya gotta do what ya gotta do!

That said, I was thinking more in terms of hard testing. I just find it hard not to think that the coils wouldn't make some contact with the timing rings on bigger hits or when really flexing out.

 

[jeeeep]

another coilover question while on the subject, I checked the coilovers and realized the driver side front/rear are12-200/14-200, the passenger side front/rear are 12-200/14-250.

Are both heavier coils supposed to be on the passenger side to offset the gas tank? because of this, I have a more pre-load on the driver side to keep it level side to side, but it also increases the overall height to more than I like. Could this also lead to a stiff feeling ride?

I'm considering buying coilovers so I can service the current shocks, other than a nitrogen check I've done anything else and pretty sure they need full service.

 

[Disciple Off Road]

another coilover question while on the subject, I checked the coilovers and realized the driver side front/rear are12-200/14-200, the passenger side front/rear are 12-200/14-250.

Are both heavier coils supposed to be on the passenger side to offset the gas tank? because of this, I have a more pre-load on the driver side to keep it level side to side, but it also increases the overall height to more than I like. Could this also lead to a stiff feeling ride?

I'm considering buying coilovers so I can service the current shocks, other than a nitrogen check I've done anything else and pretty sure they need full service.

While cranking down the preload on a certain corner more than another is common for compensating for weight, I’ve never heard of using different coil rates and have to assume this was a mistake. But I could be wrong lol I would at least want both rears or both fronts the same rates on both coils.

 

[jeeeep]

While cranking down the preload on a certain corner more than another is common for compensating for weight, I’ve never heard of using different coil rates and have to assume this was a mistake. But I could be wrong lol I would at least want both rears or both fronts the same rates on both coils.

I'm going to change the coils around so the rear has the 200/250 combo

 

[Hammmerhead]

Well it looks like Im running a 12" on top and bottom 250/300. Its hard on my old back getting this thing high enough in the air to get things fully extended, its been a while. Was just gonna try a recharge of the resi's, but was pulling it all apart and I galled or partially stripped a stud on a G2 spacer. I guess I had some salt creep over the past winters. Got the lug off, but now looks like Im buying a new set of spacers along with 300 coils. Are most of these spacers the same? Was gonna get a pair ordered quick off Amazon, but a little scared to buy a set of Rough Country or a similar looking spacer. They all look the same, but figuring they are not at all quality wise. Anyone know what brand to steer clear from?

 

[Disciple Off Road]

Well it looks like Im running a 12" on top and bottom 250/300. It’s hard on my old back getting this thing high enough in the air to get things fully extended, it’s been a while. Was just gonna try a recharge of the resi's, but was pulling it all apart and I galled or partially stripped a stud on a G2 spacer. I guess I had some salt creep over the past winters. Got the lug off, but now looks like Im buying a new set of spacers along with 300 coils. Are most of these spacers the same? Was gonna get a pair ordered quick off Amazon, but a little scared to buy a set of Rough Country or a similar looking spacer. They all look the same, but figuring they are not at all quality wise. Anyone know what brand to steer clear from? View attachment 396814

When it comes to spacers I always prefer a known quality brand and use Spidertrax or Synergy.

 

[wayoflife]

I personally would only run Spidertrax spacers or custom ones that I know are made in the USA using USA materials.

 

[jeeeep]

Well it looks like Im running a 12" on top and bottom 250/300. Its hard on my old back getting this thing high enough in the air to get things fully extended, its been a while. Was just gonna try a recharge of the resi's, but was pulling it all apart and I galled or partially stripped a stud on a G2 spacer. I guess I had some salt creep over the past winters. Got the lug off, but now looks like Im buying a new set of spacers along with 300 coils. Are most of these spacers the same? Was gonna get a pair ordered quick off Amazon, but a little scared to buy a set of Rough Country or a similar looking spacer. They all look the same, but figuring they are not at all quality wise. Anyone know what brand to steer clear from? View attachment 396814

isn't the stud replaceable? should be pressed in and easy enough to install with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Brute]

To answer the op’s title, I have 300/350 on the front of Brute…and changed the 200/250 rear to 400/450 when I added more tube, rtt & awning…

 

[Hammmerhead]

isn't the stud replaceable? should be pressed in and easy enough to install with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks. I had some old spacers from a M416 military trailer. I just knocked one out of one of them and it was same size. Just swapped it.

 

[Hammmerhead]

another coilover question while on the subject, I checked the coilovers and realized the driver side front/rear are12-200/14-200, the passenger side front/rear are 12-200/14-250.

Are both heavier coils supposed to be on the passenger side to offset the gas tank? because of this, I have a more pre-load on the driver side to keep it level side to side, but it also increases the overall height to more than I like. Could this also lead to a stiff feeling ride?

I'm considering buying coilovers so I can service the current shocks, other than a nitrogen check I've done anything else and pretty sure they need full service.

I have the passenger side lean too. Prob have to use an extra 1/2" or so preload on the front to level it out.

 

[Hammmerhead]

To answer the op’s title, I have 300/350 on the front of Brute…and changed the 200/250 rear to 400/450 when I added more tube, rtt & awning…

That gives me a little comfort jumping to a 300/300. Although Im light as I can be for most part, I have the rear bumper delete, no spare or anything back there. Nothing on front but cheap smiity winch and narrow evo bumper.

How much preload on the front are you running with that 300/350 combo?

 

[Brute]

That gives me a little comfort jumping to a 300/300. Although Im light as I can be for most part, I have the rear bumper delete, no spare or anything back there. Nothing on front but cheap smiity winch and narrow evo bumper.

How much preload on the front are you running with that 300/350 combo?

I have a slightly heavier engine with a 5.7…plenty of preload to accommodate 40” tires…although I’m running 38”s now until I run down the tread to go back to 40’s