Added 35's to my stock wheels last week, been having vibration issues since...

bonedaddy

bonedaddy

Member
Ok so here the deal...

Just recently added BFG KM2's on my stock wheels, already had the 1.5" spacers installed for about a month prior, as well as the RK Leveling kit for a few months now...

So since the install last Tuesday I have had nothing but issues with shakes and vibrations which I blamed on the mounting and balancing of them... I have had the jeep back three times, last time being today at which time they have now rebalance all 4 wheels twice... Unfortunately once I began my journey home the slight shake in steering wheel at 25-45 and the Indian vibration at 65+ are still freakin there...

So if it has nothing to do with the tires and wheels themselves, where do I go from here? As far as I recall the spacers were fine when I had them on there with just the stock rubi tires, don't recall any issues but would just changing the circumference make a difference?

Also I honestly didn't even realize until I saw the wheels off today that the spacers are not hub centric would that play a part? I purchased them from a local jeep shop that has been around for 20+ years so I would think they wouldn't sell some shit spacers, they have them made, same materials as the name brands and even use OEM JK studs, but the non-hub centric has me thinking, but I really do not know the benefits on hub centric vs not to be honest...

So what do you guys think, besides I am a dumbass for not knowing they were not hub-centric, honestly I just trusted the shop... But could they pose an issue? The have been torqued to 100lbs and holding strong so they are not loose or anything...

I am just aggravated beyond and every time I drive it, which is a 100 miles a day just aggravates me even more... Need to figure it out so its not such a whore on the highway... Especially before Winrock next weekend...

Thanks WAL...
 
Also what is lowest tire pressure I can run without the idiot light coming on? I just checked and they have it set at 37lbs...
 
Check to make sure you removed the little thin clips on the rotors before you installed the spacers, and make sure the spacers are torqued correctly. As for the air pressure, I believe 30 psi is the magic number, at least that's what it was set to on my 2014 before I disabled the TPMS.
 
Try dropping your tire pressure down to around 32 PSI and see if that helps. Also, I have been in rigs with the KM2's that have ridden rather rough. Hell the tire itself might be out of round. Good luck man, let me know if there's anything I can do to help. If nothing else, make a stop here on your way to Windrock next Thursday and I'll send you over to Doug at the Buford Discount Tire.
 
Yeah the clips are off, and torqued to 100 ft lbs w/red loctite...

I am just debating ordering some new spacers to see if the hub-centric makes a difference... What are the benefits to one vs the other?
 
if you take the wheels off, do you see any oblong of the holes from the wheel nuts? assuming you're using the stock nuts, if you see anything that looks like it's moving on the space you'll know it.

how are they balancing? road force?

are they using clip on weights? if so, they are probably falling off as soon as you leave - I hate clip weights, they never stayed on my wheels.

stick-on weights are better with a road force balance

you might pull some bolts off the spacers and see if they are moving, if they are not hub centric to the hub it's possible they are not all on in the same place, larger tires will accentuate the difference from spacer to spacer
 
They have stick on weights and as rhe balancing i really do not know what road force means, they just have the machine ... I will have to check on the wheels, they said everything looked good...
 
bonedaddy said:
They have stick on weights and as rhe balancing i really do not know what road force means, they just have the machine ... I will have to check on the wheels, they said everything looked good...
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A road force balancer is a balancing machine that applies pressure to the tire to simulate the weight of your jeep on the pavement. Much better than the non-roadforce
 
Than no, they just had non-roadforce... Anyone know where they typically have the roadforce? I may have to just call around...
 
I have inch and a half g2 spacers and they are hub centric which means the hub diameter is exactly the same as the bore in the spacer this makes sure that the weight of everything is spread out onto the hub as well as the studs, always a better idea to get hub centric. My two cents would be to get hub centric spacers ( the g2s are very tough and I'm quite happy with the abuse they've taken) and to have the tires road force balanced. Off topic question but how wide are the tires you're running on the factory rims? I'm looking to upgrade and wanted to know what everyone else has been getting away with. Thanks
 
Jeep_Will said:
I have inch and a half g2 spacers and they are hub centric which means the hub diameter is exactly the same as the bore in the spacer this makes sure that the weight of everything is spread out onto the hub as well as the studs, always a better idea to get hub centric. My two cents would be to get hub centric spacers ( the g2s are very tough and I'm quite happy with the abuse they've taken) and to have the tires road force balanced. Off topic question but how wide are the tires you're running on the factory rims? I'm looking to upgrade and wanted to know what everyone else has been getting away with. Thanks
Click to expand...

You can run 12.50 tires on a factory wheel no problem. Wouldnt go any wider though.
 
12.50's ...

I ordered some, should be here tomorrow so hoping swapping them will make a difference... Dropped pressure down to 30lbs this morning seemed to help a little but the true teat will be the HWY home...

Wish we had a discount close by, but i will scout around and see what i can find...

Thanks guys...
 
I had the exact same issues, have Spidertrax hub centric spacers, BFG KM2 35x12.5/17, Ultra 17x8.5, level kit; thought it was wheels, balancing, shocks, air pressure, control arms, tires, etc...

I bought Rancho 9000XLs hoping they would help the hop and ride. I lowered my air pressure and am living with the light, took spacers off/on, rebalanced x2, pretty much have done everything EXCEPT replace TIRES or WHEELS.

I sold my factory Rubi wheels, so I pretty much have settled I would either sell the KM2s (give me an excuse to buy 37s) or wear them out and go back to Toyo or try Nitto next time.

Disclaimer: I had BFG KM2 35x17 back in 2008 on a JKU on American Racing wheels and they did fine. Maybe there is a bad batch of BFG KM2 in warehouses... Where did you buy your tires? (mine came from 4Wheel Parts)
 
Your issue is the tires. The fact that you had the spacers on when you came up a few weeks ago and the only change was the 35s.
 
Went through this and discovered my tires were out of round. I jacked up 1 wheel at a time. spun by hand and could see the tire moving up and down causing the gap to change severly. I set up a dial indicator on the rim to verify they were true and were. I beat my head in a wall before and tried everything and had road force balanced. One thing you might try which helped a little bit was lube the bead with soapy water and psi up to max to make sure the tire is seated to the rim properly.
 
bonedaddy said:
for the record, everyplace I called for Road Force is scared to do 35" MT's... Not sure on the AT's...
Click to expand...

Fixed it for you. When I worked at the dealership and we got a new balancer from Hunter, I asked the guy about balancing big tires like what would be on an offroad rig. He said if it fits under the hood, it can be balanced. I will say though that was not a road force machine so that might have something to do with it. Though it seems like I've heard of people getting their 35s road force balance.
 
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