33s to 35s

13stocjohn

13stocjohn

New member
I’ll try to be brief here with this question. Long story short, I want to go up from 33s to 35s.

I currently have a 2012 two door Jeep Wrangler sport with 3.21 gears, a 6 speed, 2.5 in lift with 33s.

Is there anything I should know or consider if I move up in tire size?



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
 
13stocjohn said:
I’ll try to be brief here with this question. Long story short, I want to go up from 33s to 35s.

I currently have a 2012 two door Jeep Wrangler sport with 3.21 gears, a 6 speed, 2.5 in lift with 33s.

Is there anything I should know or consider if I move up in tire size?



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
Click to expand...
Fellow 2 door JK here, and yes there definitely is. You said its lifted 2.5, so first off are you planning on trimming or replacing the stock flares? If yes, 35s should fit. If no, I'd recommend getting a 3 or 3.5 inch kit/springs to allow ample room for flex. Secondly, you said it's got the 3.21s. I would undoubtedly regear. Either 4.56s or 4.88s if you plan to stick with 35s for a while. Regearing is pricey though, around $1600 to $2000 where I live. It's a 2012, so you luckily have the tried and true 3.6L V6, which in my opinion (when coupled with a regear) provides sufficient power and torque for the 2 doors on 35s. If it were me, or if you're going with a new sized lift, (3 or 3.5) I would also 100% get new and improved driveshafts. 1310s will do but 1350s are much better and worth the extra money, as with the regear and lift components.

Oh and a 6 speed. Nice. I'd go with 4.56s for sure.


2018 JK 2-Door Auto
1997 TJ 4.0 5 Speed
 
Last edited:
I had a 2012 2 door sport as well and was going to go to 35”s. I never did but now I have 2018 JL 2door 3.6L with automatic and 3:45 gears its great doesn’t bother me. I would suggest if you want 35” s try it out, some say it’s not bad, if you plan on a regear and plan on wheeling it Hard I would look at spending money on new axle D44. That’s what I am planning on doing in future, right now just going to wheel until it bends but not regear until I get D44 as well. Just my thoughts.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I have 35s on my 2dr with a 2.5” lift and trimmed fenders, there is no rubbing.

I have c-gussets. You should be alright.

You may want to re-gear in the future, but if you’re not a super high performance type of person you won’t mind. I haven’t regeared and don’t intend to unless I decide to out of boredom and do the work myself. But I also have 4.10 gears.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
Last edited:
13stocjohn said:
I’ll try to be brief here with this question. Long story short, I want to go up from 33s to 35s.

I currently have a 2012 two door Jeep Wrangler sport with 3.21 gears, a 6 speed, 2.5 in lift with 33s.

Is there anything I should know or consider if I move up in tire size?



Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
Click to expand...

I’d say just consider C-Gussets if you do plan to wheel it. You may or may not feel the need to regear it. That’s pretty subjective so not one size fits all.

I personally run 1” coil spacers and 1” bumpstops on my 2 door with 35s so your lift should be good. If not, I’d chop the flares long before going higher bc than your down the wormhole of driveshafts and draglink flip.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I think the re gear is going to be your only real thing to consider.
I ran the 3.21s with 33s on my 12' 2dr 6peed for a bit and yeah it worked but I wasn't a huge fan, and 35s will only make that worse.

I am now currently running that jeep with 4.88s and 37s and I think the 4.88s would be better suited for 35s as I wish I had 5.13s now.

Unfortunately a regear is expensive and is a deep deep rabbit hole of what to do while you are in there (lockers).

The rest of your set up should be just fine on 35s.

Sent from my SM-G950U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
13stocjohn said:
I’ll try to be brief here with this question. Long story short, I want to go up from 33s to 35s.

I currently have a 2012 two door Jeep Wrangler sport with 3.21 gears, a 6 speed, 2.5 in lift with 33s.

Is there anything I should know or consider if I move up in tire size?

Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE
Click to expand...

2Dr owner, 6 spd, 4.88s with a 3 inch and true 35 x 12.50 Duratracs. I went with 4.88s for the high country out here. Drives great on the highway.....6th gear runs about 2800 rpm at 65 mph.

I originally bought 4.56s, but got talked into the 4.88s. I still have the brand new 4.56 Yukon’s (F D30, R D44) with install kits. If you don’t do any high altitude highway driving, the 4.56s would be fine IMO. Here’s a pic on how mine sits.....
ABD10F07-034D-4580-ADE1-903CEE79F291.jpg
 

Attachments

  • D8EC7DA3-A8DC-485D-B2A6-1607CE2AC85B.jpg
    D8EC7DA3-A8DC-485D-B2A6-1607CE2AC85B.jpg
    180.6 KB · Views: 80
Follow up on the earlier post.....

I also had a Eaton Trutrac installed in the rear, front is still open. Spring plans are to build a D44 and swap out the front axle, at which time the front will get a selectable locker, debating on keeping the Trutrac but I like how it drives in the snow, it is a daily driver. . . .
 
DirtHeadDavis said:
Fellow 2 door JK here, and yes there definitely is. You said its lifted 2.5, so first off are you planning on trimming or replacing the stock flares? If yes, 35s should fit. If no, I'd recommend getting a 3 or 3.5 inch kit/springs to allow ample room for flex. Secondly, you said it's got the 3.21s. I would undoubtedly regear. Either 4.56s or 4.88s if you plan to stick with 35s for a while. Regearing is pricey though, around $1600 to $2000 where I live. It's a 2012, so you luckily have the tried and true 3.6L V6, which in my opinion (when coupled with a regear) provides sufficient power and torque for the 2 doors on 35s. If it were me, or if you're going with a new sized lift, (3 or 3.5) I would also 100% get new and improved driveshafts. 1310s will do but 1350s are much better and worth the extra money, as with the regear and lift components.

Oh and a 6 speed. Nice. I'd go with 4.56s for sure.


2018 JK 2-Door Auto
1997 TJ 4.0 5 Speed
Click to expand...

I am in a similar boat as the OP with a 2012 JK 2 Door currently on "33's" (285s) but with eyes for 35's in the near future. I have a set of Rubicon 44s in my garage and a 3" lift that will both go on after I finish building up the axles a little. My question is about the driveshafts and regearing. Specifically, I have read of the concept of using smaller u-joints (1310s) on the driveshafts to serve as a break point (i.e., better to break a driveshaft u-joint on the trail versus breaking an axle or tearing up a gear). As I understand it, increasing gear size to a numerically higher number weakens the gear as the overall diameter of the gear is the same but more teeth have been added suggesting the teeth of the gear would not be as strong as a numerically lower gear. Is there any truth to this?

I intend to at least initially run the 4.10's in the D44s I have and add a u-joint front axle and convert my stock rear driveshaft to two (i.e., one on each end of the shaft) high angle Terraflex Rzepa joints to compensate for the adverse angularity caused by the lift and the short rear driveshaft. My thinking on the Rzepa joints is that they are stronger than u-joints generally and operate more smoothly - a benefit given the rear axle is used much more frequently in this daily driven rig.
 
303Nubbins said:
2Dr owner, 6 spd, 4.88s with a 3 inch and true 35 x 12.50 Duratracs. I went with 4.88s for the high country out here. Drives great on the highway.....6th gear runs about 2800 rpm at 65 mph.

I originally bought 4.56s, but got talked into the 4.88s. I still have the brand new 4.56 Yukon’s (F D30, R D44) with install kits. If you don’t do any high altitude highway driving, the 4.56s would be fine IMO. Here’s a pic on how mine sits.....
View attachment 356940
Click to expand...

Which picture is stock and which picture is with the 4:88s?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
ScottofKSU said:
I am in a similar boat as the OP with a 2012 JK 2 Door currently on "33's" (285s) but with eyes for 35's in the near future. I have a set of Rubicon 44s in my garage and a 3" lift that will both go on after I finish building up the axles a little. My question is about the driveshafts and regearing. Specifically, I have read of the concept of using smaller u-joints (1310s) on the driveshafts to serve as a break point (i.e., better to break a driveshaft u-joint on the trail versus breaking an axle or tearing up a gear). As I understand it, increasing gear size to a numerically higher number weakens the gear as the overall diameter of the gear is the same but more teeth have been added suggesting the teeth of the gear would not be as strong as a numerically lower gear. Is there any truth to this?

I intend to at least initially run the 4.10's in the D44s I have and add a u-joint front axle and convert my stock rear driveshaft to two (i.e., one on each end of the shaft) high angle Terraflex Rzepa joints to compensate for the adverse angularity caused by the lift and the short rear driveshaft. My thinking on the Rzepa joints is that they are stronger than u-joints generally and operate more smoothly - a benefit given the rear axle is used much more frequently in this daily driven rig.
Click to expand...

I don’t think those Rzepa joints will hold up after a lift honestly


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom