25 rubicon, which lift,Evo,metalcloak,clayton,rockkrawler

sandyhicks

New member
Want 3 to 3.5 inches, they are all about the same price for a mid arm kit with all of the arms. The only exception is the evo would be a stage 3 overland. This keeps the price at close to 3k. I will do the install with the help of some jeep people who have done several. They say metalcloak.

What are the pros and cons of each one that you have personally experienced.

I will run 35s until I upgrade gears. Then I will do knuckles and a 2.5 to steering while the axles are apart. Any advice here?
 
First off, there is no such thing as a “mid arm”. That’s just marketing jargon for control arms that are about an inch too long and that’s actually a problem, not a benefit.

Second, 3”-3.5” is a LOT of lift for just 35’s, especially when you can pretty much run them stock. That height is much better suited for 37” tires and you should really be thinking of new wider wheels and with less back spacing. Also, a new aftermarket front drive shaft is something you’ll need sooner that later as the CV boot at the transfer case will be in a constant state of pinch and it will fail.

That said, I personally feel that Johnny Joints (what come on EVO) are better that the Duroflex joints that your friends have (seen them fail) but for the most part, aside from the gold color, there’s nothing really wrong with it. I'm not fan of their spring rates or shocks as they feel too firm for my taste. To me, EVO is way more comfortable but then, ride quality is 100% subjective
 
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@sandyhicks We have installed both brands and will say I prefer EVO for the johnny joints and think their quality overall in the arms/brackets and coils is better. Just my opinion from handling/installing both. I've also been running Johnny Joints for at least 10 years with no issues.

Also, today is the last day for the EVO sale so we can help you out with the Enforcer Stage 3 Overland, Bilstein shocks and both track bars for $2,785.57 +free shipping. Give me a call if interested.
 
I don't have experience running metalcloak but, my friend that I've wheeled often has it and unless they've upgraded their joints, they were the point of failure too often IMO. The MC pack shocks leaked withing 6 months, he had enough issues that he replaced it with another brand.

I have Clayton on the JKU and EVO LA on the JLU, both have held up well under many conditions including my lack of maintenance.

The Clayton arms withstood a side impact to the axle that I was sure they got damaged, but they held up.

As mentioned, Johnny Joints are the way to go, I'll be the first to admit my Jeep maintenance is once a year if I remember which year I last did it ...
 
I don't have experience running metalcloak but, my friend that I've wheeled often has it and unless they've upgraded their joints, they were the point of failure too often IMO. The MC pack shocks leaked withing 6 months, he had enough issues that he replaced it with another brand.

I have Clayton on the JKU and EVO LA on the JLU, both have held up well under many conditions including my lack of maintenance.

The Clayton arms withstood a side impact to the axle that I was sure they got damaged, but they held up.

As mentioned, Johnny Joints are the way to go, I'll be the first to admit my Jeep maintenance is once a year if I remember which year I last did it ...
Exactly what I was looking for. I am the same way.
 
If I go with a 2.5 stage 3, can I use the same arms and jump up to a 4.5 stage 4 by changing springs and adding the rear lower arms. I will go to 37s when I re-gear I also plan to change steering knuckles when the gears are done.

Any argument to go with 37s and wait on the gears for a while.
 
If I go with a 2.5 stage 3, can I use the same arms and jump up to a 4.5 stage 4 by changing springs and adding the rear lower arms. I will go to 37s when I re-gear I also plan to change steering knuckles when the gears are done.

Any argument to go with 37s and wait on the gears for a while.
Yes stage 4 will just add rear lowers/front uppers, will still use the other EVO arms. I’d honestly just wait to do it all at once with the 4.5” and 37’s. No reason to spend money twice.

And yes you can run 37’s on 4.10 gears, it’s just not ideal and you will loose, or at least not see 8th gear much.
 
What is considered minimum to start with 37s? 3.5 or 4.5 lift? Front drive shaft?
Minimum?

What do you plan to do with the jeep?

If you’re not planning to do serious crawling there are plenty of affordable options.

I ran 2” spring spacers and 2” shock spacers with 37’s on a JLUR for over 10K miles with no problems. Did the install in my garage with hand tools in a few hours. I wheeled several difficult trails without any issues to speak of. No front driveshaft but I did need a spare tire carrier upgrade to fit the wheel and tire set up.

Upgraded to 3.5” EVO springs and lower arms (IIRC) for a little extra ground clearance. The only real capability it added was the ground clearance and maybe some durability with the heavier control arms. Still no front driveshaft

Then to EVO long arms with coilovers at 20k miles. F and R driveshafts were needed now.

If the EVO long arms, coilovers, and or DTD would have been available I would have done that from the start but they weren’t available for the JL until a few years after I got it. My original plan was a JK with EVO DTD and Evolever in the rear, I wouldn’t have wasted money doing other kits if the kit I wanted was available.

2” spacers and 800 miles on on the jeep:
(Also no experience)
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Don't get too caught up in specs. Don't want to muddy it up too much, but you'd be amazed at what these things can do with a minimal amount of mods. This is my daughter killing it at Sand Hollow on 37's, a 2" Dynatrac lift with all stock arms, & stock 4:10's. She did everything all us dummies on 40's did except a couple individual obstacles and drove it to and from PA. As noted 8th gear is kind of a casualty, but honestly we didn't think the extra expense of re-gearing it where she lives (flat as a pancake Ohio) was worth it. 🤷‍♂️

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