$10 Mini Switch Pod?

Thanks, hopefully later today I will get a chance to spend more time on it, and update with programming instructions.

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If I look at the link in the first post it bring up the auction and shows an absolutely hideous looking fake wood remote. Did you order that one and get the 4 button remote shown in your pictures?
 
Good news! I figured out the programming and in the latching mode all 4 channels can be turned on at once!
Will update first post soon.
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:cheesy: ^ I used up my 9 volt battery the other day, so I brought in the Ryobi :D

updated the first post with programming info
 
Using the remote to turn on 3 of my lights at once, thru the diy spod, but these lights could easily run off just the mini switch pod itself. 108 watts on channel A, 54 watts on channel B, and 36 watts on channel C.
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Lol, I did that to easily test as I was constantly removing the leads. The connectors are small on the relay panel board, and only accept 16 gauge wires. I was connecting 2 16 gauge wires at once.

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Since the connectors on this thing only accept 16 gauge wire, one thing you could do is order a 6 position terminal strip from waytekwire- part #47306 $1.98. Run very short wires from the relay panel to this strip, and then you could hook up heavier gauge wire to the strip. Use ring terminals on the strip and cover up the positives from accidental contact.
 
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Think about what accessories you will have on your jeep. Oba compressor? Does it come with a relay and a switch?
50" led light bar? You will need a 30 amp relay for that. But, windshield lights, rear lights, rock lights, etc. As long as the wattage total is less than 120 watts per channel, you could use one of these to run your leds and then mount one switch for your compressor and or 50" led bar. No spod needed.

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If Overlander agreed with me on something, I better make sure my wife didn't spike my soda with something !LOL !
 
Those were my test wires in that pic- when you pigtail to the other connectors, use 18 gauge so you don't have to cut strands off to fit into the relay panel connectors. Thank you dahreno.

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^ Funny Pastor :D
Well, after a day of having this wireless controller installed, all I can say is, it rocks! So awesome to have wireless control! I hooked up an Air Raid horn to the 4th button today. This thing kicks ass!

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I received two of the ten dollar remotes today- I had thought all along that the pc boards would be identical, and the only differences would be with the remotes, but I was wrong. The 12 volts input and ground input are reversed on the cheaper pc boards. I will do some testing this afternoon or tomorrow to verify that all other connections and operations are the same as I have posted, otherwise, so far this writeup is only true for the 15 dollar remote.
I do admit, I like the fact that the cheaper 10 dollar remote has a sliding cover over the buttons to help prevent accidentally turning something on.
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Ok- so here is where things get interesting- the boards are different- If you bought the $15 board, refer to page 1 for diagram.

If you bought the $10 pod- here is a diagram- I will do a better one later
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Here is one LED hooked up to each of the 4 channels with all channels on.
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The main differences from the $10 to the $15 board is the input positive and negative are reversed, the Jumper Pin settings are also Reversed, and the Channel outputs are switched in the orientation on the board.
Good Luck and have fun!
 
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Since I assume the board doesn't provide protection for the relays or other components, you really should fuse each channel's positive at no more than 10A and use at least 18ga stranded wire.

I normally wouldn't comment on this as I think your diagram(s) are for functional purposes only, but since you noted the incoming positive 30A fuse I wanted to point out that this is insufficient for an permanent installation.

I don't want anyone burning down their rig with a $10-$15 switch box!
 
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