ARB compressor and locker wiring pictures

desertrunner said:
Yeah that was the only one I was seeing for power as well which looks like I can tap into the cigarette lighter via T tap. I think I have the power squared away however is there anything near the cig lighter that I can tap for the blue wire to get switch lights and dimming? Maybe there is something on the back of the traction control switch?

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On my 2007, there was an orange with grey stripe wire bundled in with a bunch of other wires behind the center panel not too far from the cig lighter. This is where I tapped into to get the dimmer to work. I don't know if anything changed for newer year JKs but it may be a starting point.
 
nmwranglerx said:
On my 2007, there was an orange with grey stripe wire bundled in with a bunch of other wires behind the center panel not too far from the cig lighter. This is where I tapped into to get the dimmer to work. I don't know if anything changed for newer year JKs but it may be a starting point.
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I found another write up for a guy who replaced the power windows back lights with LEDs and he tapped into a orange with grey wire on that one too. Maybe I'll dig around and find an orange with grey wire and see if it works haha

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desertrunner said:
I found another write up for a guy who replaced the power windows back lights with LEDs and he tapped into a orange with grey wire on that one too. Maybe I'll dig around and find an orange with grey wire and see if it works haha

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There you go... Orange with grey. Maybe the blue one was the switched circuit. 😎

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desertrunner said:
I really don't think I need another $40 harness when I can just T tap the power wire on the cig lighter and I don't think that harness would give me the switch back lighting either

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I don’t remember what it cost but I got this on qtec to power my cb, but it can easily be removed for your temp use and your wires won’t be molested
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Just unplug the lighter and put it in the middle


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Yeah that's the same one recommended above. It was 39.99 on quadratec. My other reservation about it was the 10A fuse recommended nothing more than 7A across it and the ARB manual reccomends 15A. I have no idea what the compressor with the 2 lockers would draw so who knows. Also T taps don't look all that invasive on the wires so if I do remove them later I'm sure I can electrical tape over the pin prick and be good to go

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If you have a test light, you could answer your questions pretty fast by turn the ignition on and doing a simple test of wires. I found one right under my steering column in a matter of minutes.
 
badandy1 said:
If you have a test light, you could answer your questions pretty fast by turn the ignition on and doing a simple test of wires. I found one right under my steering column in a matter of minutes.
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Test light? Is that something that you clamp on to a wire and it lights up when current goes through the wire?

Sorry I'm really not knowledgeable when it comes to wiring

Edit: I googled it and now know thanks


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desertrunner said:
Yeah that's the same one recommended above. It was 39.99 on quadratec. My other reservation about it was the 10A fuse recommended nothing more than 7A across it and the ARB manual reccomends 15A. I have no idea what the compressor with the 2 lockers would draw so who knows. Also T taps don't look all that invasive on the wires so if I do remove them later I'm sure I can electrical tape over the pin prick and be good to go

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That liquid electrical tape you brush on is pretty handy too


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I don’t know the load rating (amperage draw) on the cigarette lighter but keep in mind that the original wire size is what will carry the load no matter what size wire you use to tap with. If the load is 15 amp I would probably power the compressed through a relay using the key on 12v supply as the trigger signal for the relay.


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kbsvo2go said:
I don’t know the load rating (amperage draw) on the cigarette lighter but keep in mind that the original wire size is what will carry the load no matter what size wire you use to tap with. If the load is 15 amp I would probably power the compressed through a relay using the key on 12v supply as the trigger signal for the relay.


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Yes, the switch only triggers a relay. The compressor is wired to the battery.

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Since you guys are talking about tapping into the cigarette lighter I have a question. How reliable is that power given the CANbus? I hard wired a Garmin VIRB camera by tapping into the cig lighter and got poor results. The connection was fine but I had issues with the reliability. I now have it wired to the battery thru a switch panel.


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BaddestCross said:
Yes, the switch only triggers a relay. The compressor is wired to the battery.

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Seems weird to me but I promise there is no wire that goes to the battery. At least not with the CKMA compressor or the harness they gave me. I can imagine the twin would go to the battery but this one does not. There Is only 1 power wire and it's up next to the leads for the switches

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desertrunner said:
Seems weird to me but I promise there is no wire that goes to the battery. At least not with the CKMA compressor or the harness they gave me. I can imagine the twin would go to the battery but this one does not. There Is only 1 power wire and it's up next to the leads for the switches

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Odd. I run the single not the twin, but I guess the little guy doesn't need that much juice.

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desertrunner said:
Does your harness have a wire mine doesnt?

View attachment 289311

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Several. The harness that came with mine has heaver gauge wire to go direct to the battery with an online 40A fuse. Came with relays for the main power switch and lockers if they are going to be tied into it (I don't).

Here's a pic I pulled online of what I've got. Mine's too buried to make any sense of right now...
arbckma12_06.jpg

Edit: I run the CKMA12 high output single... Yours is just the one good for lockers only, so I'm guessing it's has a much lower power draw.

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The CKMA12 and CKSA12 are both single style but are different from each other. The CKSA12 is just for lockers and isn't recommended for airing up tires. That's why it's not wired to the battery. It just turns on a solenoid for the locker.
 
desertrunner said:
Yeah that's the same one recommended above. It was 39.99 on quadratec. My other reservation about it was the 10A fuse recommended nothing more than 7A across it and the ARB manual reccomends 15A. I have no idea what the compressor with the 2 lockers would draw so who knows. Also T taps don't look all that invasive on the wires so if I do remove them later I'm sure I can electrical tape over the pin prick and be good to go

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Since I know nothing about electrical, will this power a cb or should I go a different route?


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