Tips installing adjustable control arms

R

RUBEERCON

New member
My lift is a Rancho Sport 4" with stock control arms and correction brackets.

I bent the drivers side lower, I am replacing it with adjustable lowers and possibly uppers.

Can I run the stock uppers and adjustable lowers until I purchase the adjustable uppers?
I think yes, the question is can I remove the driver lower and the correction bracket with the frame supported via floor jack? Then install the adjustable arm without measuring it. Basically lengthen the arm then align with the bolt holes and repeat pass side.

I can buy an angle finder and follow a few write ups, just wondering if I can cheat the system.

Steve


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Yes you can do all of this, but only about a half inch at a time max. Do one side at a time. A pointed pry bar helps a ton. Yes you can do longer lowers and leave uppers alone.

f0c45f15-4c6a-43b4-8a9d-b10ea166e672_1000.jpg

Our JK has stock arms, so if you need measurements, let me know.
 
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RUBEERCON said:
can I remove the driver lower and the correction bracket with the frame supported via floor jack? Then install the adjustable arm without measuring it. Basically lengthen the arm then align with the bolt holes and repeat pass side.
Click to expand...

You need to measure them. If they are not the same length, you can still get the bolts in, which is not what you want./
Also right once you remove the bolt the axle will move.
 
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jack up the axle just enough to get under the Jeep and put the axle on jack stands.

you can then use the jack and place it under the flat spot of the pumpkin under the yoke to rotate the axle up or loosen the jack slowly to rotate it down.

if you have the control arms the right length they should line up pretty easily

a starting point for lower front control arms is 23"center to center - measure the pinion and adjust from there

this is the rear axle but the idea is the same to be able to rotate the axle easily. I have a small jack I keep for this purpose. the Jeep jack works great as well

rear_axle.jpg
 
I'll be paying someone next time! On jack stands and on my back, already feel like I have been ran over by a buffalo. Tips have helped!! Instead of 2x4's I used my lower arm after I removed it lol. IMG_4604.jpg
Ratchet straps and crow bars all over the place! I tried to remove the upper arm nut through the frame hole, it's captive and does not spin but my dewalt 1/2 impact didn't care and it rounded the head off. I bet I'm not the first to make that mistake!


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RUBEERCON said:
I'll be paying someone next time! On jack stands and on my back, already feel like I have been ran over by a buffalo. Tips have helped!! Instead of 2x4's I used my lower arm after I removed it lol. View attachment 280820
Ratchet straps and crow bars all over the place! I tried to remove the upper arm nut through the frame hole, it's captive and does not spin but my dewalt 1/2 impact didn't care and it rounded the head off. I bet I'm not the first to make that mistake!

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Click to expand...


oh that sucks that it rounded the bolt head...were you able to get it out?


RUBEERCON said:
Now I discovered the cam bolts! Do I use the cam bolts or by eliminator kit...
I can cut washers on my Cnc laser tomorrow just not sure if I need them???

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Click to expand...

x2 - fill them or large washer welded on the outside- probably best to fill them so you know the holes are centered.
 
Yes the bolt came out, the nut has a tab welded on it that catches frame, I could not see how it worked because my drop brackets hid that nut from me.

Cutting washers today!


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I adjusted my control arms a few months ago, man that was a workout. I had these tiny prybars that were worthless - and stupid me parked on a small incline. Once I popped out the bolt holding the control arm in place the axle shifted about 4 inches. I chocked up the loose wheel and inched the jeep forward to realign it once I had the arm set. Puckering. Next time I'll make sure to have some friends, giant pry bars, and ratchets on hand with plenty of daylight left.
 
I'm at 23" center on the ground. Looks like I'm at 0-2 degrees on pinion flange with 4" lift. It drove 80 just fine but shouldn't it be pointed up more? Didn't feel any vibrations. I also dropped off ieach tire In a big hole a few times to check the flex, didn't see any rubs or hear any new sounds...
Will it hurt anything if I hit the trails this weekend?


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RUBEERCON said:
I'm at 23" center on the ground. Looks like I'm at 0-2 degrees on pinion flange with 4" lift. It drove 80 just fine but shouldn't it be pointed up more? Didn't feel any vibrations. I also dropped off ieach tire In a big hole a few times to check the flex, didn't see any rubs or hear any new sounds...
Will it hurt anything if I hit the trails this weekend?


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Click to expand...

if you measured on the pinion then you are about 4* caster.

this write up will show you where to check for caster:

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php...nt-End-Alignment?p=42391&viewfull=1#post42391
 
RUBEERCON said:
I'll be paying someone next time! On jack stands and on my back, already feel like I have been ran over by a buffalo. Tips have helped!! Instead of 2x4's I used my lower arm after I removed it lol. View attachment 280820
Ratchet straps and crow bars all over the place! I tried to remove the upper arm nut through the frame hole, it's captive and does not spin but my dewalt 1/2 impact didn't care and it rounded the head off. I bet I'm not the first to make that mistake!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...


Thank you for this update, i just used same method (with the old control arm) to align the holes on the rear lowers. Worked great.
 
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