Full cages - let's see them

aTX427

New member
I must be getting old, because my days of throwing caution to the wind have turned into whispers "of what happens if", especially with passengers. I know there are a couple of good options for bolt in sport cages, but I'm just not crazy about the astetics. Bolts sticking up, big bar clamps, cuts to the fabric, plastic and everything else to make them fit. However, I really like the look of a full cage, half doors and the windshield removed and would appreciate input on full cages if anyone is running them.
 
So in other words, your Jeep isn't much of a daily driver, you trailer it to the trail to the trail and spend most of your time bombing through the desert so things like squeaking and noise caused by a full cage don't bother you.
 
Can't help you out with the full cage.. but I could help you out with some silver half doors you mentioned [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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So in other words, your Jeep isn't much of a daily driver, you trailer it to the trail to the trail and spend most of your time bombing through the desert so things like squeaking and noise caused by a full cage don't bother you.

Although I would like to, I don't bomb the desert, but otherwise correct.
 
Although I would like to, I don't bomb the desert, but otherwise correct.

Not sure "what happens if" you're imagining in your head that would require any cage at all but if you have money burning a hole in you pocket and again, you don't mind all the noise and squeaking, EVO and GenRight make nice kits.
 
I saw an old post about an Evo cage, but wasn't sure if it was a one off or production part. As far as money burning a hole, not quite, but I prefer to do things right the first time if possible. Pay once - cry once. I'm still kicking myself for not doing the DTD out of the gate, but didn't expect my wife to enjoy Colorado as much as she did. The bolt on was an easy way to back out if it didn't go well. I love the sport and the people I meet on the trail tend to become life long friends.
 
I saw an old post about an Evo cage, but wasn't sure if it was a one off or production part. As far as money burning a hole, not quite, but I prefer to do things right the first time if possible. Pay once - cry once. I'm still kicking myself for not doing the DTD out of the gate, but didn't expect my wife to enjoy Colorado as much as she did. The bolt on was an easy way to back out if it didn't go well. I love the sport and the people I meet on the trail tend to become life long friends.
As far as I know ORE will install the full cage in house only. It makes things so stiff that if you don't have the double throwdown you don't want it... and it isn't cheap. I think it was 6k or 8k... hence Eddie's comment on money burning a hole in your pocket.

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I've heard good things about the GenRight cage and in person it looks good. The comment about not wanting a sport cage because it cuts into stuff is interesting to me though. A full cage is a far more drastic measure that really changes the look of the Jeep and involves significant cutting and welding. There's no going back once you do one.
 
cuts to the fabric, plastic and everything else to make them fit.

Have you even looked at most full cages? Or at least most companies that do full cages? A lot of them cut the dash to go through it. A lot of them also cut up some of the plastics, the sound bar (or even eliminate it) and cut the carpet to go through it if you are wanting to keep the carpet.

Unless it's an all out trail rig that you plan to flip, I would go with just the sport cages you can install yourself. Or if you have money to blow, then heck yeah go all out. They look cool. But to get one in case of an what if, I wouldn't. In all reality, the what if situation would probably be covered by the factory cage. A sport cage is a nice addition though and most seem to stand up well.

Good luck. [emoji1303]


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I spent the day looking around and saw a custom cage today. I'll call Evo tomorrow about their '07 sport cage. I would be disappointed with the quality of my welds and do not want to spend $6-7K right now to have someone else weld it up. I need 1 ton axles before Moab more than I need a cage.
 
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I currently run a RH4x4 with custom B, C pillars and harness bars. I'm going full cage and B pillars removal this winter. Mine is a trailer queen that we beat on and in my area the5es a lot of tight trails. I don't mind what o have other than I want to run no windshield and a smooth cage to slide on. The only options I've found is Genright or custom builder. EVO I like but like previously stated it's in house only.

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I currently run a RH4x4 with custom B, C pillars and harness bars. I'm going full cage and B pillars removal this winter. Mine is a trailer queen that we beat on and in my area the5es a lot of tight trails. I don't mind what o have other than I want to run no windshield and a smooth cage to slide on. The only options I've found is Genright or custom builder. EVO I like but like previously stated it's in house only.

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Let me know if you want to sell your RH4x4 cage and pillars and I'll take it off your hands.
 
It doesn't. It's a full cage. It's for safety.


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Exactly. I remember seeing pics on IG, it goes through the body and onto the frame. There were pics of the rear bar and there are holes cut into where the rear wheel wells are and goes straight to the frame. Hence the comment you would not want to run it unless you have DTD as all frame vibrations transfer to the body and cage. Also it eliminates body/frame flex so it's stiff as hell as any safety cage should be.
 
The one I saw today had plates mounted to the tub that were through bolted to plates under the tub with poly bushings, which then extended to the frame on the a, b and c pillars. I like that idea better than going through the tub. It stiffened the body and is removable. He did full 2" DOM on the a-pillar instead of stanctions (sp?) and it was super clean. Had to trim the dash for the tube in the corners and some trimming at b-pillar, but was very well done. He was in the $6-7k range, but had custom brackets for a soft top, at the door level and top of the b-pillar and at the windshield.
 
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The one I saw today had plates mounted to the tub that were through bolted to plates under the tub with poly bushings, which then extended to the frame on the a, b and c pillars. I like that idea better than going through the tub. It stiffened the body and is removable. He did full 2" DOM on the a-pillar instead of stanctions (sp?) and it was super clean. Had to trim the dash for the tube in the corners and some trimming at b-pillar, but was very well done. He was in the $6-7k range, but had custom brackets for a soft top, at the door level and top of the b-pillar and at the windshield.

Don't mean to butt in here but $6-7K for a rollcage for a street driven Jeep? :shock: Unless you plan on dropping off of Black Bear or doing KOH, anything you encounter is gonna be a slow roll situation and the sport cages will more than hold up for that. :twocents:
 
Don't mean to butt in here but $6-7K for a rollcage for a street driven Jeep? :shock: Unless you plan on dropping off of Black Bear or doing KOH, anything you encounter is gonna be a slow roll situation and the sport cages will more than hold up for that. :twocents:

He doesn't drive it on the street. Still a lot of money though and a lot of work.
 
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