Which locker?

I recently had a change of plans to my build. Long story short, the wife said no to my dream. I am going to add a rear locker to the stock Dana 44 on my 2015 JKU Willys.

Couple questions:

ARB or Ox?

If Ox, would you go air, electric, or manual?

I was recently told that Ox may be facing some financial problems and go belly up, anyone hear the same rumor?

Knowing the majority will say ARB because of the reliability, i ask about Ox because the idea of manual locking is appealing. Plus if the cable breaks they have a tool to release and engage it. Just dont want to buy a product if the company is going out of business.

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Was in the same predicament as you. Was going to go with cable, didn't like the big lever. Thought about their electric but didn't like the added actuator same as the air. The locking mechanism is appealing. But ended up going with an Arb.


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I have seen OX lockers in action and they are strong. I know 80% of the Germans and Icelandics run OX over ARB, I don't know why, but they swear by them. Me personally have not messed with lockers in a long time. I do want to get the setup on my current rig.
 
I see the logic. But when i see $900 for an ARB, plus (on the high side) $1000 in labor for the install, I'm at around $2000 with a locker and nothing else.

If i go with the replacement rubi rear end, that's more labor intensive, and would probably be in the $2000 range for labor and misc parts. Total bill there is $3000, if im lucky.

To which someone will say, just have a buddy come over and do it yourself. And i will reply......View attachment 246892I can't even fix the f!@#!ing toilet paper dispenser!

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I was going to ask if people do any of the work on their rigs, but you just answered my question. I guess some of us are a little more handy with a wrench than others.
 
Do you have to have an air locker? What about a TruTrac at half the cost and the left over in gears? How much 'wheeling' do you do? Maybe that would be enough and regear while your in there.


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I wanted lockers in my 2014 sport, but the budget and D30 front axle made me take another route. Recently re-geared from 3.21s to 4.56 and the future wifey threw a Detroit Truetrac my way for a Christmas gift, yeah I am a lucky man! If you can hold off and get the gears done at the same time as a locker/limited slip whatever you go with you will save in the long run buy not having your axles opened up again to add the lockers. Gear sets can be found at a very reasonable price as a kit, with and without overhaul kits. Now, I am saving up to build a D44 front axle, the shop that did my install (yes I paid someone to do it and now have a little extra warranty/piece of mind) has one sitting on a rack with my name on it! Cost breakdown...

$700 Detroit Truetrac
$130 D30 3.73 and up carrier
$900 for gears and opted for master overhaul kits because I was over the 80,000 km mark
$1000 for the complete install

$2730 CDN
$2035 USD

To date, easily the best money spent on my Jeep so far by a huge margin. Daily driving is so much nicer on 35s when you are geared correctly!
 
I see the logic. But when i see $900 for an ARB, plus (on the high side) $1000 in labor for the install, I'm at around $2000 with a locker and nothing else.

If i go with the replacement rubi rear end, that's more labor intensive, and would probably be in the $2000 range for labor and misc parts. Total bill there is $3000, if im lucky.

To which someone will say, just have a buddy come over and do it yourself. And i will reply......View attachment 246892I can't even fix the f!@#!ing toilet paper dispenser!

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1k labor for front and rear, or just one? I'm paying 400 for locker, gears, master kit and axle shafts installed. Paying 3k for Arb, 35 spline g2 golds, g2 4.56 gears, master install kit, out axle seals and ball joints.


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My 2 cents....

My son runs an OX locker in the rear of his 99 XJ and it works very well.

He uses the electric acuator which moves the short cable to the diff cover plate.

It operates quickly to lock and unlock....wish my rubi lockers were as fast lol

He has had it in for almost a couple of years now with no problems.
 
Or you could run a Detroit locker and not worry with hoses,switches etc. [emoji41][emoji106]

They are more affordable, strong and work well but they are kind of scary to have if you live in an area that sees snow and ice. Also, they do require a bit of wire cutting in order to make them work on a newer JK.
 
They are more affordable, strong and work well but they are kind of scary to have if you live in an area that sees snow and ice. Also, they do require a bit of wire cutting in order to make them work on a newer JK.

I didn't notice what year model his was. Just threw it out there as a option, love mine. I wish we could get snow around here.. We haven't had any real snow in about 3 years, kinda sucks.


Jeep with stuff on it. [emoji631]
 
1k labor for front and rear, or just one? I'm paying 400 for locker, gears, master kit and axle shafts installed. Paying 3k for Arb, 35 spline g2 golds, g2 4.56 gears, master install kit, out axle seals and ball joints.


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I was guessing around $1000 to install just the rear locker. I figured after they crack it open, take everything apart (wheels, brakes, axels) put in the locker, put everything back in, it would be a full day or 8 hours. Most credible shops around me run $100/hour for labor. After buying the locker for $900 plus tax and other parts, I'm hoping it will be around $2000.

I would love to do the gears at the same time, and Yukon gears came highly recommended. They sell a set up for my jeep setup with 30 front 44 rear. If the price is right i will do it. I just don't want to dump a ton of money into the D30 front since i haven't given up hope that my wife will someday let me upgrade.

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I was going to ask if people do any of the work on their rigs, but you just answered my question. I guess some of us are a little more handy with a wrench than others.
I do electronic installs and basic other things, front bumper, sliding tray, tailgate table. But when it comes to things like gears, i dont have the tools, time or skill. I would absolutely love to learn so i knew what it would take to do field repairs, but it just isn't in the cards.

I was really just joking about the TP dispenser. That is just sheer laziness on my part. I went and got the spackle today. [emoji1]

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I wanted lockers in my 2014 sport, but the budget and D30 front axle made me take another route. Recently re-geared from 3.21s to 4.56 and the future wifey threw a Detroit Truetrac my way for a Christmas gift, yeah I am a lucky man! If you can hold off and get the gears done at the same time as a locker/limited slip whatever you go with you will save in the long run buy not having your axles opened up again to add the lockers. Gear sets can be found at a very reasonable price as a kit, with and without overhaul kits. Now, I am saving up to build a D44 front axle, the shop that did my install (yes I paid someone to do it and now have a little extra warranty/piece of mind) has one sitting on a rack with my name on it! Cost breakdown...

$700 Detroit Truetrac
$130 D30 3.73 and up carrier
$900 for gears and opted for master overhaul kits because I was over the 80,000 km mark
$1000 for the complete install

$2730 CDN
$2035 USD

To date, easily the best money spent on my Jeep so far by a huge margin. Daily driving is so much nicer on 35s when you are geared correctly!
So the US $2035 price is just for the rear end? Or was that the front end without the cost of the D44?

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The $2035 USD was for everything, Yukon D30 and D44 ring and pinion with master overhaul kits, D30 3.73 and up carrier, Detroit Truetrac, 75W90 gear oil and install.
 
I just got my quote back today. ARB Locker, nitro gears (4.56), master overhaul kit, axel sleeves, installed for $3100. Little higher than Samsquanch is paying, but considering who is doing the install i think it's worth it. Thanks for all the help.

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I'm a fan of ARB lockers and have run them personally for many years without issue. I have never personally ran an Ox, but I have installed quite a few. The Ox installs a little easier than the ARB, which may appeal to the DIY guys out there. My only complaint is how the air line isn't protected as it ran through the cover. At least on an ARB install the line goes through the top of the housing and is out of harm's way.

Really can't go wrong with either. With the rebates out there right now on ARBs, they are tough to pass up.
 
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